Braided Stainless Lines/Hoses?

[miller19j]

Do Braided Lines/Hoses have any advantages other than appearance? I know that they look great but do they last longer? Any info would be appreciated.

[Licketty Split]

they are liter then regular rubber of the same specs

[DickDanger]

So who sells the braided stuff around Riverside, CA? Anyone have some info???? -DD out

[HBjet]

They are stronger then the standard rubber hose you buy at Pep Brothers.
If you have a stock motor and it is covered, save the cash and watch your rubber hoses and replace when needed. Steel braided can protect the hose from any hazards which may cut the hose, or melt the hose. However, if you have the braided hose rubbing against something that vibrates, it can start to cut away whatever its vibrating against.
HBjet
[This message has been edited by HBjet (edited May 21, 2002).]

[miller19j]

Thanks HB jet! My engine is covered (although not stock) and I was thinking about braided hose to protect from vibration and rubbing against the engine cover. I guess that I will stick with rubber and replace it every year.

[Bense468]

Its really not the line that is expensive it is the fittings. Some of the fittings can go up and above 30 dollars a fitting. It all deprends if it is worth the money to you.

[miller19j]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Bense468:
[B]Its really not the line that is expensive it is the fittings. Some of the fittings can go up and above 30 dollars a fitting. It all deprends if it is worth the money to you.
The cost wouldn’t really bother me if it lasted longer and was more reliable. With the engine cover I only see the lines when I have the hatch up so I can spring a leak and not know it until it is to late.

[hoolign]

www.paragonperformance.com (http://www.paragonperformance.com)
this place has some good info

[HBjet]

Originally posted by Bense468:
Its really not the line that is expensive it is the fittings. Some of the fittings can go up and above 30 dollars a fitting. It all deprends if it is worth the money to you.
Very true! The fittings are a expensive. I bout a fitting -12 45 degree and it was like 28 bucks or something. Ouch! You can find good deals at speed shops that supply braided and the fittings if you pay cash, and try to buy everything you need in one shot. Jeg's sells the fittings, but I've had to return more fittings because the angle was off, or whatever. With the shop I use, I can ask them to bring out a bunch of fittings, and then I try to figure out if what I need. What also nice is they suggest other was of going something to make is cleaner. For example, I needed a 3/8" male pipe to -10 male AN pipe. Well, instead of going with a 3/8" female to female aluminum fitting and then a male 3/8" to -10 male fitting (way too long) they had a 3/8" to -10 in brass. It's not aluminim, but way shorter, cleaner. Anyways, good luck.
HBjet

[HBjet]

Originally posted by miller19j:
I can spring a leak and not know it until it is to late.
True, but the idea is, with braided or rubber hose you shouldn't spring a leak with the proper maintaince and checks before you go boating.
HBjet
[This message has been edited by HBjet (edited May 21, 2002).]

[rivercrazy]

Originally posted by HBjet:
True, but the idea is, with braided or rubber hose you shouldn't spring a leak with the proper maintaince and checks before you go boating.
HBjet
Sounds like an someone may be taking a subtle shot to me! LOL.
Make double sure you change your rubber hoses ever year or two. One of my blew a few weeks ago.
[This message has been edited by HBjet (edited May 21, 2002).]

[1quickjet]

Originally posted by DickDanger:
So who sells the braided stuff around Riverside, CA? Anyone have some info???? -DD out
Richard Danger, J+M Speed Center (Cal-Hi wherehouse) sells all sizes of braided stainless. AN fittings as well. You just have to ask. Everything is behind the counter and the hose is cut to your desired length. Talk to Dennis, Steve or Phil. Good guys. 1QJ

[DickDanger]

Right on 1QJ, thanks a lot!!! -DD out

[burbanite]

I don't know if it makes any difference to your application or not but a forged fitting will flow less than a swept fitting because of the turbulence created internally but is less prone to failure as a result of vibration. I presume you are going to use rubber hose as opposed to teflon - the fittings are different for both and do not interchange. Rubber allows you to achieve a slightly smaller bend radius if necessary, no matter what type you choose make sure you secure the hose to stop it flapping about but not enough to place a strain on the fittings.
If possible, pressure check the completed hose before you fit it - a compressor and a bucket of water will at least get you into the 100psi range.
One of the biggest mistakes people make when assembling these hoses is overtightening the fitting to the hose, also, use some kind of lube on the threads on the hose end of the fitting, it is real easy to gall these up.

[DickDanger]

Since I have never used the braided lines, I have a few questions:
Which are the better ones to use, the rubber, or the teflon?
When getting them cut to fit, should I just bring all of my old hoses in with me? What is the difference between the red and blue fittings?
What about the pieces on the motor where the hoses are clamped on to the neck? Do those pieces need to be changed out to something that it threaded?
Thanks!!! -DD out

[HBjet]

Originally posted by DickDanger:
Which are the better ones to use, the rubber, or the teflon?
If your talking about the rubber hose that has a braided sleave over it, then I would stay away from those, they are suppose to give the braided look, not quality.
Originally posted by DickDanger:
When getting them cut to fit, should I just bring all of my old hoses in with me? What is the difference between the red and blue fittings?
I would stay away from getting them cut to fit personally. I like to use the old hose as templates and see if I can route them for a cleaner look. I then estimate how much I need and usually go over by a foot. If you took your old rubber hoses in and said to match them, you will have more slop in the line because the old rubber hoses which push onto a nipple will be longer, verses a braided hose with hose ends that thread to another fitting where the original nipple was. Make sense?
As for the colors, simply for itdentifying. Some are mostly red, some are mostly blue, you can get some with no color. IT just varies between MFG's.
Originally posted by DickDanger:
What about the pieces on the motor where the hoses are clamped on to the neck? Do those pieces need to be changed out to something that it threaded?
Yes and No. You can stick a braided hose on there and and tighten with a hose clamp, but that looks like shit. You can also use the hose clamps that have a fitting like sleave over them to make them LOOK like the real thing, but there still hose clamps.
http://www.jegs.com/photos/361900104.jpg
So instead of this and a rubber hose
http://www.jegs.com/photos/7202965678.jpg
Stick this this stuff! Use this on the hose end
http://www.jegs.com/photos/361309104.jpg
And this on the threaded end (ie. water inlet on your block)
http://www.jegs.com/photos/361981603.jpg
Good Luck!
HBjet
[This message has been edited by HBjet (edited May 22, 2002).]

[burbanite]

This is a pretty big subject when you get right into it but for us in the general boating world the rubber (Nitrile) hose is adequate. As you go up in dash size the pressure at which the hose bursts goes down. In the dash 4 to 12 range the max safe operating pressure is 1000psi - plenty for us.
There are actually a couple of different specs of Teflon (PTFE) hose, one type is internally and externally convoluted, this has a weight saving of about 30% over Nitrile and allows a tighter bend radius, this is not the type I mentioned above, it is less desirable (generally) than Nitrile in my opinion. The other type of PTFE has a smooth internal bore and has several advantages over Nitrile, it flows about three times better, has a higher pressure rating and is lighter. The down side (if it is a concern) is that in most sizes the bend radius is larger.
Different manufacturers have different color combinations of fittings but in most instances the main fitting body is blue and the socket is red, sometimes the fittings for the Nitrile hose has more red parts than blue.
It does pay to have a sample when making a hose especially if the fittings need to be phased in relation to each other. Like anything else a piece is only as good as its weakest point and any time a hose is used in a situation that involves any pressure it is wise to use a threaded fitting, having said that, if the attachment is secure it will work under low pressure. It would defeat the purpose of spending money on braided line to attach it with a clamp unless it is just for cosmetics.

[1quickjet]

DD, maybe I should clear up my post. They sell the hose in bulk. For example, if you need 15' to plumb the water lines in your boat, then they will sell you a 15' piece of hose. Each individual piece, you fit and cut yourself, like HBJet said, for a cleaner look. It is really quite simple. If you need any help, feel free to e-mail me. 1QJ http://free.***boat.net/ubb/smile.gif

[wrightnow]

I when to start my boat up yesterday and had fuel spraying everwhere, the fuel lines had only been on the boat for three seasons. Two of the four lines where spraying between the braids not just leaking first time I seen that. I just thought I would have gotten mre time of the lines.