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johnc
04-01-2002, 09:10 PM
If you get some time see if you can pass along that info on the electronic ignition for the 460 King Cobra we talked about a while back. Also, check out my other post regarding the interupter.
Thanks

not guilty
04-04-2002, 07:02 AM
lets see if I can still do this
http://free.***boat.net/gallery/Gearhead_Garage/Other_Equipment/ignition_diag.JPG
if this comes out the but cant read #,s the first two diodes are 400v 3a p/n 276-1144 put in series and the next two are 4.7k 1/2w resistors p/n 271-030 in parrallel. all p/n are from radio shack.
any questions I'll check later. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/wink.gif NG
finally posted this on HB pages under gearhead garage gallery - other equip. if doesnt appear here check there. NG
[This message has been edited by not guilty (edited April 05, 2002).]

not guilty
04-05-2002, 08:10 AM
I finally got it on here for you JOHNC,its also on gallery- gearhead garage-other equip.Dont know whats up with webshots but again the quility of ***boat MAG comes through again! http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif NG

gnarley
04-24-2002, 02:50 PM
Hey NG,
Question about that wiring. I got my Mallory and built the harness as shown on their schematic and yours. One thing I don't understand is when I cut the harness and removed the Prestolite module I traced a white wire to the shift interrupter (micro switch) on the other side of the engine. That wire goes to the micro switch and has a black one on the other side of it. I don't have a gray wire that goes to the coil since the coil was contained in the module box.
Where is this gray wire in the harness and what does it go to? Is there another component that I should look for besides the old module? What does the interrupter itself look like? I wired the diode end direct to the coil, the interrupt end to the white wire that goes to the micro SW and the resistor end to ground. After running for some time and stopping in the water it loses fire & I need to change the module. I have now just bypassed the additional wiring and said hell with the shift interrupter. You have any ideas???

Outnumbered
04-17-2003, 12:22 AM
NG,
Well it must be boat season again. I haven't posted on here for a while. Hope all is well with you and the boat.
:confused: NG, I am going to do that ignition conversion we talked about last year. I called NAPA on that part # and they quoted me $450!!! eek! I'm sure that is wrong. I looked into dropping in a Pertronix but have read they are marginal on reliability; but only cost $120. There is a Hot Rod guy here in SoCal that specializes in Small Body HEI converions who will convert my OEM distributor to a GM HEI with remote coil and module. He only charges $175 and swears up and down the quality is the best. He is all over the net with nothing but cudos on the quality. I just wondered about the resistor/diode hook-up. Should it be the same with his set-up? He says it hooks up just like the points distributor. Any advice.

not guilty
04-21-2003, 05:19 AM
Not to sure on the GM type mod , I've seen some prob with some people trying to use other type electronis and only lasting about a day . I know a photo-cell type wont last , the mallorys I use are magnetic if that helps.
Try looking on e-bay , I found another on there for my new twin engine boat , it was for a 351w , but all I had to do was change the drive gear for the 460.For an extra $100 I ordered a new module for it from napa just in case because I did buy it used (never hurts to have aspre anyway , especially with twins) I still only have 200 bucks wrapped up in it.
Anyway you go I think the diode-resistor is a must.
I'm in the process of completely rewiring my twin while the motors are out , what a pain burningm summers comin on fast and still have one short block to get together. NG
Also the mallory pt # is ylm567cv , you might try any performance suppliers in youre area se if any better price !
[ April 21, 2003, 06:27 AM: Message edited by: not guilty ]

Outnumbered
04-21-2003, 08:41 AM
Thanks, I'll try the Mallory part #. Good to see you are still around on the boards. Better get back to wrenchin' its gettin' warmer :-)
OL

Outnumbered
04-21-2003, 08:50 AM
Its $299.95 at CP Performance. Includes the complete distributor. What coil is best with this unit? What have you heard about the Pertronix drop in modules? I was trying to keep the costs down. I am putting a new 750 Mech. BG Sea Demon carb on and some other stuff. Getting expensive. Is the Mallory unit worth the extra $175?
Thanks,
OL

not guilty
04-22-2003, 04:21 AM
I believe the petronix is photo cell ? :confused:
Personally I think the mallory is worth the x-tra simply because it has been proven to work when installed right on our set-ups. Anything else could be trial and eror and we know that gets expensive too. let alone it pi$$es you off on a Saturday afternoon when it quits! burningm
Most drop in conversion units say not for use on OMC w/shift interupter. argue
I run MSD blaster coils , just what I picked up first time and seem to work well.

Outnumbered
04-22-2003, 07:22 AM
I ordered one today from CP. Rex had them for $340. CP was only $299. The part number is 675-YL567EV. They said there is no such thing as a "CV" in that ditributor. What is the difference between CV and EV? I noticed the 302 and the 351 distributors end in CV :confused:
I will take your advice on the Pertronix because I don't want to be messing with this thing. I got the MSD epoxy filled coil. I'll let you know how it all works out.
What timing should I run with this set up running 92 octane? Same as the stock distributor?
Thanks again. Your knowledge is greatly appreciated!
OL

Outnumbered
04-22-2003, 09:06 AM
Correction on that part#: 675-YLM567EV. The other one is a points distributor.
OL

not guilty
04-23-2003, 04:25 AM
Sorry about the type-o on the part # ,that could have been ugly! eek!
I set mine at about 8* idle , these distributers come set to curve about 30* by 2500 rpm if I recall.When you get it look down inside at the plate and you will see an adjustment for the stop on the advance, they are 2 screws across from each other with a slot and stopper next to them, I run mine wide open on 92 octane with 9.5:1 modified motors :D . no probs NG

Outnumbered
05-15-2003, 04:23 PM
NG,
Got the boat running witht he 750 Sea Demon and the new distributor. I also put a new fuel pump on. Well its running pretty good but I have an odd backfire when cruising steady throttle about 3,000 rpm. It runs strong up to about 4,600 and the hesitation I had with the 800 is gone. My mechanic buddy timed it at 15* idle. It was running strong at that but seemed to miss at a constant lower cruise RPM 2800-3300. I backed it down to 10* and its ran smoother but then backfires when cruising once in awhile. My mechanic buddy said 8* was way to far back but unfortunately I ran out of time on the lake and couldn't try 8*. I threw a belt and that soaked up all my time before I had to pick my daughter up from school. Anyway, could the timing be too advanced at 10*? I didn't notice any knocking running 92 octane.
Any thoughts?
BTW, the damn OMC fuel pump I got is only putting out 4 PSI. The orginal 1987 pump was putting out 5 PSI but was bounsing severly. The new one puts out a steady 4PSI. Its running great at WOT and doesn't seem to be running out of fuel. I hate to take it back out but I think I might have to put in a holly or something. What PSI do you run?
Thanks,
OL

not guilty
05-20-2003, 04:31 AM
As far as timing I run mine at 8 idle , keep in mind these have a lot wider advance swing than a stock if you have the stops set wide open , wich is where I run mine.You may end up have to put a little tighter primary spring in to not let it advance so much so early.
As far as fuel pressure if it seems to run at WOT ok I dont think I'd get to concerned about the difference. NG

Outnumbered
06-19-2003, 11:04 AM
NG,
Do I need to run a ballast resistor? Does the 87 OMC 460 have one stock? We burned up the damn module after about 2 hours. :mad: Mallory says it needs one: 1.3ohm chevy type.
BTW, Figured out the timing/miss issue--it turned out to be my buddy's helper dropped a spark plug and didn't re-gap it. The gap was practically closed :mad: . I set it to 11* at idle and it ran strong (until the module failed). I guess I am just going to have to do EVERYTHING myself. No one can get it right.
I should be on the lake by October at this rate LOL. :D
Thanks,
OL

gnarley
06-19-2003, 11:35 AM
Old Lavey, you need to run a ballast, if not you will pour lots of money into modules. If you want I'll send you a ballast if you send me the cost of a module for every time you go out :D J/K

not guilty
06-19-2003, 12:05 PM
The 87 king has a re-sistor wire going to the dist built into the harness. As long as you used this wire it should be fine , never had any problems with mine. NG

gnarley
06-19-2003, 01:49 PM
I would add in that whatever wire is hot you should make sure it is the correct voltage with the ignition on just to make sure & ignition cranking voltage is enough while cranking.

Outnumbered
06-19-2003, 02:17 PM
Gee, thanks Gnarley :D
Ok, I'm learning here. How do I know if its resistor wire? :confused: Check the voltage like Gnarley said? Or check the ohms/resistance. What readings should I look for. What if I add the balast and it already has resistor wire? That would probably be too much. Damn this is frustrating. :mad:
Thanks for helping guys. I appreciate it!
OL

gnarley
06-19-2003, 03:23 PM
With the wire disconnected if you have 12 volts then it is not resisted & you need one, if it is 6-9 volts (if I remember right & scratching my head) it would be resisted. Just make sure you check it disconnected from the ignition parts. If you have the same voltage at the end of the wire as the battery you need a ballast.
Don't be frustrated, it really is easy once you've done it & better than blowing modules every trip out eek!

Outnumbered
06-19-2003, 03:35 PM
So the resistor actually drops the voltage. I see.
BTW, do modules come in 6-packs? :D
Thanks,
OL

gnarley
06-20-2003, 08:29 AM
No 6-packs but I do carry an extra, actually 2 of them that Mallory supplied to me at no charge :D seeing that when I bought my ignition they had a run of defective modules & I ended up with 4 of them before Mallory figured out that a supplier had sent them diodes that were not up to spec. Needless to say there were several trips on the water that didn't end very happily. Once Mallory found the problem & sent me the updated modules there has not been a hint of an ignition problem.

Outnumbered
06-20-2003, 12:10 PM
Hmmm? Maybe I got an old stock distributor with a bad module? How did you find this out and how can I confirm the module is a defective one? I was wondering why CP was back ordered on new modules. BTW, Summit carries them too, a few $ cheaper. Mallory Part #609. I ordered two and Mallory said they will warranty my toasted one, no questions asked. That is customer service.....or maybe CYA for a bad run of modules???
Thanks Gnarley
OL

gnarley
06-20-2003, 12:37 PM
I don't know what you mean "Maybe I got an old stock distributor with a bad module" but the 609 sounds like the same part # & I did all my ignition purchasing from Summit, they have way better service & pricing, & actually stock parts. Both Summit & Mallory seemed to have great customer service.

Outnumbered
06-20-2003, 01:18 PM
"Old stock" as in: been sitting on the shelf for a while. Maybe I had a defective module from the get go and the ballast resistor (resistor wire) wasn't the problem. I havn't had a chance to test the wire yet. But I know there is not a resistor, as least not in any obvious location.
OL

Outnumbered
06-22-2003, 10:57 PM
New Mallory Magnetic distributor is starting to piss me off. :mad: Spent today putting in the new module and trouble shooting the ignition. Still no spark with new module. Changed coil--no spark. :confused: Checked voltage. About 4 to 6V at "+" side of coil when on (seems low), 9.5 to 10V while cranking. I do have a purple/red resistor wire, checked the OMC manual and verified the wire is there. So I guess that is why it is only 4-6V? I assume the alternator makes up for the voltage once the motor starts. Battery voltage is 12V dead on--a little low from cranking but plenty of power to crank the motor. I put a timing light on to check for spark--nothing. Is this a reliable way to check for spark? Ive got fuel and fuel pressure. Motor does not even try to fire. Just died on me a 4000 RPM on Lake Mead last week. Hasn't ran since.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
OL

not guilty
06-23-2003, 06:17 AM
Possible problem with the diode-resistor set up ?
Try taking it out and start it wired up like original.This will not hurt anything as long as you dont trigger the shift interrupter.
If that is the problem make a new assembly .
Also a very important part that I didnt mention on the diodes there is a stripe on one end , that end needs to be on the end closest to the resistors (down line) , double check that if you take it apart. hope that helps NG

Outnumbered
06-23-2003, 08:07 AM
Thanks NG. Actually, the distributor came with a diagram just like the one you drew. We got the diodes in right. I built another interupter harness just to be sure--no luck. I tried disconnecting it completely thinking maybe the interupter was stuck on or something, this didn't help.
Checked all the fuses in the harness--good.
I am concerned about the voltage. Is it possible to be too low to fire but high enough to crank normally? Maybe my battery is just not taking enough of a charge? Also, I called mallory and they faxed me a troubleshooting page. It says you should have battery voltage at the NEGATIVE side of the coil with the key on. Is this a typo? Ive only got about 1.5-2V.
I'm ready to put the points distibutor back in at this point.
This really has me stumped.
OL

gnarley
06-23-2003, 09:35 AM
OL have you called Mallory's tech line? They are very helpful if you are having trouble determining where the problem is & can shed some light on how the systems works. There is nothing like getting free advice from the guys who build it. their # is 775.882.1622 ask for Dennis

Outnumbered
06-23-2003, 03:58 PM
OK, its always the most simple thing that gets you when you least expect...the freekin' roll pin broke in the distributor. :mad: I didn't even check to see if the rotor was turning/pointing right. Since its new that was the last thing I would think of. I got the idea to check the pin from searching the boards. Pulled the dist and the gear had spun on the shaft. WTF? Why would this happed. Oil pump drive is not seized. Apparently Mallorys are known for this--several members have had similar problems. But still--what would cause that to happen? I will put in a harder pin and let you know.
OL

Outnumbered
06-24-2003, 10:03 PM
Thanks for all the help. Put the pin in and clocked the distributor. She fired right up. The stock pin looks real weak so I went with a slightly stronger one. Its not too beefy so I think it would still shear if something was wrong with the oil pump.
Thanks again,
OL