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Interceptor454
02-21-2004, 08:05 PM
Anyone running one for a multiple battery setup? I just used a big ass 1 wire alternator on the last boat, but thinking that the isolator would be a good idea, that way the 'accessory' batts would only power the stereo, and the starter batt would never get drained?
Or should I save the money, and just use the 2 way battery switch on the boat?????

ROZ
02-21-2004, 08:13 PM
Why not run both.....At that point you never have to put it on "ALL" ... Put it on 2 to run the stereo, and switch it over to 1 to start it and run charging all your batteries......
Or you could just save your money and use your switch :D

Interceptor454
02-21-2004, 08:42 PM
Problem is, the batt switch is tucked away under one of the side panels, kind of hard to get to, and I can't see it! Difficult to see whether it's on 1, 2 all or off....
Thought about running a seperate on/off switch only to the tunes off the 2 aux batt's and the isolator. That way, when my drunk ass forgets to switch it, no biggie! :D

Havasu Hangin'
02-22-2004, 06:42 AM
Originally posted by Interceptor454
Problem is, the batt switch is tucked away under one of the side panels, kind of hard to get to, and I can't see it! Difficult to see whether it's on 1, 2 all or off....
Thought about running a seperate on/off switch only to the tunes off the 2 aux batt's and the isolator. That way, when my drunk ass forgets to switch it, no biggie! :D
You can move that switch...if you want.
I'm running a single 100AMP alternator with two stereo batteries and one starting battery- two Perko switches. Even when I'm drunk, I can control which batteries get used for what.
The tough part for you is that if you want to truely isolate the stereo batteries, and use one alternator, you need a diode somewhere...or a solenoid isolator, like the PAC 200 (or 201). ;)
http://hellroaring.com/marine.htm
http://deeptronics.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1111
http://www.lightningaudio.com/2004/products/index.asp?catID=296

Interceptor454
02-23-2004, 04:12 PM
Thanks HH. Decided to run the isolator, and a seperate on/off switch for the system The boat is stored w/no elec available to keep a trickle on 'em so the alternator will be called into duty to boost 'em back up. The A/O, with that swinging back seat, makes it a little difficult to run that switch, unless you want it to be seen, which I don't. The cool thing about the isolator, it'll be automatic, and I won't ever run the starter batt down with the tunes!:wink:

Just Tool'n
02-29-2004, 10:29 PM
Go with the Battery isolater. In our display trucks, we run a 5 way isolator. We have run them this way for years. With little to no problems.
I am going to put one in my boat that I bought used from a guy last year. It currently has a Cole-Hersey battery switch on it. Man does it suck, Its under the engine hatch, Like some of the other guys stated never remember if its on 1 or 2 or both!
With the Isolator, the Altenator is charging all the batteries at the same time, & keeps the starter battery from beiing drained by the stereo system batteries.
I should know, Starter battery = 1 group 27 battery.
Stero system = 5 group 27 batteries.
Another cool thing about the 5 way Isolators are that they can take 2 diffrent charging sources. I.E The Altenator, & if equipped a genorator input. I have heard that some people have small genorators for the stero systems, if this is the case, this is the way to go.

ROZ
03-01-2004, 10:36 AM
JT, What's the make and model of the Iso you use? Curious to know if it's a Diode, or solenoid type... One exibits voltage drop when used....

Just Tool'n
03-01-2004, 02:24 PM
Roz, the brand we use on our trucks are shurepower. We have used them in our Tool Trucks for 19years I have been around.
Roz they are a diode type of isolater, & yes you do get a 1 voltage drop across them , from input to output.
My good friends owns an altenator shop, we use a remote sensing wire from the alt, to the battery, this way the alt puts out a little more to compensate for this drop, & this way the battery is getting 14.2 volts to properly charge its self back up.
Hope this helps.
Let me in on any trade secrets you have.
In tool trucks, we use 2ea 12volt batteries hooked up parallel to start the diesel engine
2ea 6volt deep cycle hooked up in series to run the 12 volt florecent lighting.
1ea 12 volt deep cycle battery to run thru an inverter to run the computer, printer DVD, & LCD monitor in the truck. Typically run a 140amp alt to run all.
Some trucks run a RV Genorator also to run AC & help recharge the batteries.

ROZ
03-01-2004, 03:44 PM
Originally posted by Just Tool'n
My good friends owns an altenator shop, we use a remote sensing wire from the alt, to the battery, this way the alt puts out a little more to compensate for this drop, & this way the battery is getting 14.2 volts to properly charge its self back up.
Sounds like a good dealio for the boat or RV!
How does the trigger work?

cruser
03-01-2004, 06:59 PM
So, how do you handle different battery banks at varying voltages? If you tie all the sense wires together, you have defeated the purpose of the isolator. Otherwise, you may be overcharging the batteries that are less discharged.
cruzer

Havasu Hangin'
03-01-2004, 07:49 PM
The reason a voltage drop is important is because of amplifier design.
For example, if you have a 500 watt Class a/b amplifier, and it puts out 500 watts at 13.8 volts, at 12.8 volts...it'll put out about 450 watts.
Most people compensate for the difference by turning up the volume. Instead of drawing 60 amps, that same amp (to reach 500 watts) will draw around 65 amps.
More amps = killing batteries faster.
As far as modifying the alternator for higher output...to me, that's kinda like putting nitrous on a car to make up for an air filter that is restrictive.
Installing a isolator to keep battery banks separate on an RV to run 12volt appliances is a little different than for a big stereo which begs for voltage.
If it were me on those trucks, I'd probably install a second alternator to isolate the workload.
Originally posted by cruser
So, how do you handle different battery banks at varying voltages?
I'm guessing the 6 volts are in series.

cruser
03-01-2004, 11:30 PM
My comment was about the voltage on the batteries when partially discharged. I was concerned that a lower reference voltage might cause the fully charged battery to get over charged. But, after thinking about it a bit I see that any overcharging would be minimal if at all because the reference signal would be the same for all the batteries. just need to make sure the battery with the most discharge is used as the reference other wise it might take too long to charge that battery.
I just use a continous duty selinoid that is activated by an oil pressure safety switch. When the motor starts, the switch closes connecting the Aux batteries to the charging circuit. Sounds similar to the relay based ssytem discussed earlier in this thread.
cruzer

Interceptor454
03-07-2004, 07:50 AM
Running the isolator, both the stereo batt's and the starting batt are registering 13.2 volts. I'll let you know how it works throughout the summer. :D

Sweet Addiction
02-16-2005, 10:38 AM
Running the isolator, both the stereo batt's and the starting batt are registering 13.2 volts. I'll let you know how it works throughout the summer. :D
So now I have started working on my system, and I have a few questions about isolators. I don't know anything about them, but I am good at learning and have been doing systems for many of years. Just basic systems though. So I purchased a Kicker KX600 mono Class D and it will be pusing two Infinity Kappa series 10" subs. So what I need to know is, 1) What size isolator should I purchase 2) Will my stock alternator be enough to keep the batteries charged when running 3) What size circuit breaker should I run on this system.
Thanks Jared.

ROZ
02-16-2005, 02:32 PM
IF you want use a Iso relay, use the PAC200 .. You can find it at www.pac-audio.com
Why not just use a Perko?

Sweet Addiction
02-17-2005, 08:54 AM
IF you want use a Iso relay, use the PAC200 .. You can find it at www.pac-audio.com
Why not just use a Perko?
I am going to use a perko, but don't want to have to turn the switch all the time. Althought I am going to locate it under the back seat so I can access it with the hatch down. From what I understand I want to use an isolator so I can run both batteries for the system, and when one drops below starting voltage it shuts it off, and just runs the stereo off one battery. I think this is right but I may be wrong. I just don't want to run both batteries dead. Thanks for all the advice Roz.
Jared.

Sweet Addiction
02-18-2005, 08:14 AM
bump :rollside:

ROZ
02-21-2005, 10:40 AM
I am going to use a perko, but don't want to have to turn the switch all the time. Althought I am going to locate it under the back seat so I can access it with the hatch down. From what I understand I want to use an isolator so I can run both batteries for the system, and when one drops below starting voltage it shuts it off, and just runs the stereo off one battery. I think this is right but I may be wrong. I just don't want to run both batteries dead. Thanks for all the advice Roz.
Jared.
This item is available from a few companies, but I pulled this one from the West Marine site.
It automatically disconnects the battery when it drops just below 12v and reconnects the battery after the boatstarts...
http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/34430_f.jpg
It's 80.00 at west, but I've seen them for close to 50.00... i just can't remember where :220v:
You can run your perko and put this inline with your starting battery...

Sweet Addiction
02-21-2005, 10:55 AM
Thanks for the advice Roz, I think I am getting the idea now, which puts me closer to making a decision.
Jared.

Fashun
03-09-2005, 06:37 AM
In most of my installs, I have found that an Iso- relay works just as well as a battery Isolator. A company called Wrangler, which specializes in aftermarket charging upgrades, has a relay called the smart relay. What it is special for is that it waits until the main battery reaches a charging level of 13.5 volts then automatically trips to allow a charge to flow through to the auxillary batteries. This is nice, If you wire your auxillary electronics to the Aux. battery you will have comfort in that your main battery will always have a complete charge. It's idiot proof and works great. I have installed over 100 of them and never had a complaint or problem. I believe retail on it is around $150.00. Oh, yeah it is 200 amp capable. Good Luck.

BadBahner
03-23-2005, 10:19 AM
This item is available from a few companies, but I pulled this one from the West Marine site.
It automatically disconnects the battery when it drops just below 12v and reconnects the battery after the boatstarts...
http://www.westmarine.com/images/full/34430_f.jpg
It's 80.00 at west, but I've seen them for close to 50.00... i just can't remember where :220v:
You can run your perko and put this inline with your starting battery...
There is one on EBAY right now for 65.00 bucks. Another guy has them for 74.00 on ebay as well.
Eric

h2oski2fast
03-23-2005, 05:35 PM
I say stick with a Perko, that way if there are any problems it's easily remedied. I have also seen isolators go bad, but I have yet to see a Perko go bad. It only takes one time forgetting to set the Perko in the right position, and it wont happen again.As far as remembering where the Perko is swiched to, thats not hard, clockwise: off, 1, both, 2.