Metallic Gel Coats

I have noticed a few builders using metallic gels. Is this achieved by spaying mold w/ clear gel mixed with desired ratio of flake powder, then backing up w/ the base color?
Thanks

They are laying a heavy coat of clear down first, then clear with flake, pearl, or what ever, then backing with a color. If you just mix the flake in with the surface against the mold the boat will look like ass within a month of coming out of the mold. And forget about ever repairing it, or sanding and buffing it.....

Ducky-
I plan to shoot the following:
1st Pass: Clear Gel (Valspar)
2nd Pass: Clear Gel w/ Silver Mini Flake
3rd Pass: Smoke Grey Metallic Gel (CCP)
Do you use any additives, or shoot pure gel? How many mils can I get away with on the first layer?
I have seen boats with clear turn yellow and milky, I am trying to avoid that.
Thanks in advance.

If you have a gun with a large enough tip, then additives won't be required. If you need to thin things out, use styrene monomer. Don't use acetone, as it will cause the dreaded yellowing. Acetone will break down the pigments, whereas styrene will not. Try to avoid excessive use of styrene also, though, as it tends to make gel run badly since it evaporates so slowly. I couldn't give you an idea as far as mil thickness. I would practice on something with your desired mix to get a feel for it. The nice thing about spraying in a mold is that runs don't show....
I would probably lay down two good heavy coats on the external clear (I am guessing 30mils total...), just to leave yourself room for future sanding/buffing and scratch repairs.

i think it'd be cool as hell to watch someone lay up a boat!

I ordered one pound of silver metallic flake (.004"). Thanks for the advice Ducky.

A pound of mini flake? Holy SHIT!!!!:eek: :eek: :eek:
Glad I could be of assistance.
Keep in mind that different effects can be achieved by applying the flake in different ways. Mixing it with clear is one way and is fine if you aren't trying to make a "solid flake" part. You can also blow it on dry over wet clear for a slightly different effect. It tends to cover better that way. If you mix it with the clear, don't add too much flake as it will clog up your gun.

Ducky-
I wanted enough flake to play with before I shoot the mold. Im not sure if I want an all flake part, but the dry flake method sounds good. :idea:
I will shoot some on a piece of window glass to check it out.
Thanks

I have yet to use one....but I know people who like to use this if you go the dry flake route...
Flakebuster (http://www.innate.com/Paint/OSF/Flake%20Buster.htm)

I have actually used a spot sand blast gun to apply dry flake over a large area and it worked well. That flake buster is a really good idea. It seems you would have a little more control because it's siphon feed. It appears to be the same thing as a undercoating gun, just with a much smaller container.