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We'll it's my turn, nothing crazy special, just a mild BBC. This is my first build, it's going to be a slow one with plenty of mistakes (expecially spelling), lots of pictures and lots of questions so don't expect a steelcomp or Infomaniac build type thread :rollside: Feel free to yell at me if you see something I'm doing wrong. haha
To start i'll post what i have...
Mark IV 454 .060 Over (4.311 bore)
Cast Iron Crank ( crossing my fingers )
990 Heads w/ larger intake valves (2.25) 117cc .. Thanks Art (gofastracer)
JE/SRP Domed Pistons (pn# 212136) (10.25:1 ish)
Stock Rods
Scorpion Roller Rockers
Morel Solid Roller Lifters
Custom Hyd Cam by Chris Straub
Edlebrock TR2X Tunnel Ram
2 x Holley 660's (4160's converted to 4150's) rebuilt by Bigs
MSD 6AL Box
MSD Pro Billet Marine dist.
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
Every thing's been machined and balanced.
Here's a flow chart from the head guy also... http://reitanfamily.com/misc/buildspecs.html
You also can find all my pics on this project at this link (if your bord or somthing)... http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/v/sh...reitan/boat01/
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Block was cleaned and painted. First thing i did after that was install most of the oil galley plugs (had to order a few i was missing) and installed the freeze plugs that i could get to.
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/11332-2/DSCF4027.JPG
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/11350-2/DSCF4033.JPG
Next i installed the oil filter adapter, the old one had a bypass and hookups for a remote oil cooler but it had a bunch of crack marks in the bottom of it.
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/11560-2/DSCF4148.JPG
I then quickly found out my crank was .010 under. i never took the time to ask or look, I just asked the machinest to check it out.. they sent everything out to be balanced and then polished it. So now i have a set of federal mogul std bearings. I then ordered clevite 77 .010 under bearings for it and also broke down and bought a set of Mic's and a Dial bore guage from summit. At this point i'm not sure if the dial bore guage is acurate. I mic'd the crank journals, set the bore guage to zero and then measured the bearings and i kept getting the following measurements...
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/11980-2/DSCF4288.JPG
My attempts with the dial bore guage
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/11971-2/DSCF4285.JPG
And Plastiguage...
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12102-1/DSCF4297.JPG
Fiat had told me that he remembered that the race bearings from kings bearings had more clearance than all the other .010 under bearings he had used. I called XRP and the guy told me that yes the bearings where closer to .009 than .010. . I orderd a set and the clearance opened up alittle more but not the .001 i was looking for. After wondering if my measurments where off or if my tools where not accurate i decided to try some plastiguage and compare. Plastiguage said i was at .003 for most and some alittle bit larger.. I decided to just put it together with the better bearings (kings).
Here's a pic of the kings bearing, they sure do look nicer than the clevite and FM bearings...
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12051-1/DSCF4309.JPG
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I Cleaned everything again with paper towels and laquir thiner, installed the bearings and put some assembly lube on them... I think i used too much of it but i figure better more than less.
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12060-1/DSCF4315.JPG
I also used RTV on the rear seal and this time i remembered to oil the seal :)
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12066-1/DSCF4317.JPG
Cranks in, time to lube the journals and install the caps... I didnt have a gear puller that day so thats why that old timing gears on it..
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12075-1/DSCF4320.JPG
Oh, here's a pic checking the run out.. there was none..
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12081-1/DSCF4322.JPG
I dont really understand the hole aligning the thrust bearing dilio before you tighten the rear cap, the bearings fit into the cap/block really tight, they dont seam like they could move forward or backwords but i guess it could have a thousands or somthing and i wouldnt know...
Here's a pic checking end play, pushing gently i could get .006 and giving it a bit more force i got .007. Boy that cam degree kit was a good buy (where i got the dial and magnet poll thingy)
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12087-1/DSCF4324.JPG
Another one checking end play, this one with me and my shinny head in it...
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12096-2/DSCF4327.JPG
Thats it for now..
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Looks & sounds good. Keep up the good work. :)
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big motor for a kayak! looks great so far..cleanliness is next to Godliness in this kind of work!
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Don't take it back apart,, but you should put some of the bearing lube on the crank thrust sufaces of the bearings too. When you oil prime, you will enough oil there.
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it's really nice to see young guys doing their own work. good job.
oh yeah it's called a dial indicator and a mag base. v-drive
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Thanks, today i just throuh the pan on with 4 bolts and bolted a sheet of carb bord accross the top of the block. I only put the crank in right now because i still need to mock up my rail kit and i'm trying to keep the block as light as possible for that part. I hope to get the railkit installed this weekend and then continue on with the build.
few more pics for the hell of it..
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12114-1/DSCF4406.JPG
http://reitanfamily.com/gallery/d/12105-2/DSCF4407.JPG
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Also, it is hard to tell from the photos, but make sure you offset the main-seal halves so that they don't line up at the cap/block line. (Possible leak)
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