Billy not sure i will check tomorow and let you know
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Billy not sure i will check tomorow and let you know
Hey Art, will we see you in April ??. Rumor has it that the MRS. is going to run circles around a certain injected Daytona. And I don't want you to think it was DOS that told me that :D :D .
Originally posted by BILLY.B
Hey Art, will we see you in April ??. Rumor has it that the MRS. is going to run circles around a certain injected Daytona. And I don't want you to think it was DOS that told me that :D :D .
Yep I'll be there for sure!.:) As far as the MRS. running circles around me, that won't happen for a while sinse the project won't be done by then. And sinse I'll be building the motor, I have control over that!...:D :D :D
Ok guys this is Nelsonf i measured the Plate is 8 1/4 from the Transom and the V-Drive is 93 Inches from the Transom the Motor is 39 but i can move that easy enough when i put the new one in. Can you guys post some pics of the way you have the V-Drive braces set up mine go to the front of the boat so they are in the way i need to move the throttle pedal back so i can reach it but the bracket is in the way can i turn them around towards the back of the boat
Nelson, go to my profile and click the link it will take you to pics of the install of my Daytona!...If you have a GENUINE Biesemeyer, I would highly recommend installing the motor the right way, those hulls are built for circle racing and they have a built in twist and it has to do with turning left, with the motor facing the wrong way, the torque is to the right and that will prevent the boat from handling properly!..
Are you measuring the v-drive distance from the transom to the center plate or the back of the v-drive?. The correct measurment is to the v-drive plate. I just measured my old cav plates from when I had the SS motor in the boat and they are 7" from the transom to the end of the plate. With the "K" engine they are 10". Like I said we changed them on by buddies boat from 9" to 7" along with moving the engine 16" (was in at 21" and moved it to 37", it's a twin turbo'd small block) did a blue print job on the bottom and the boat went from the mid 90's to being GPS'd at 121. Not to shabby considering it wouldn't take a set before. :cool:
Let me tell you a little story. In 1973, my brother-in-law and I picked up a Stepped Deck Biesemeyer just like yours from Julian, Stage I. (bare hull with a strut and a cav plate) We weren't fortunate enough to have anyone knowledgable like Billy or Gofast to help us, so we proceeded to do the installation the on our own. We put the engine in, driven off the flywheel. After all, all the hardware was easily available to mount it that way. The boat even had a 9" plate on it. When we got done, the boat wouldn't take a set, but worst of all, if you ran the boat about 60 mph and let go of the steering wheel, the boat would turn right so hard it would almost throw you out of the boat. The faster you went, the harder you had to steer it to the left. Not good. So we took the boat to Bernies Boat Works in El Monte CA, and had him set it up right. (any ol timers remember the Late Great Bernie B? I could start a whole thread on him). All I'm saying is, do it right. It will only increase the value of the boat. Oh, and also, cut the plate to 7" and add two more turn buckles to the middle. Best of luck!
Billy i measured to the v-Drive plate it is 93 inches to the Transom. What do i need to run the Motor forward because it was always setup to run off the back.
Originally posted by BILLY.B
Nelson, what is the length of the cav plate from the transom to the end of the plate??. We shortened up one that was on the exact same hull as yours and it seemed to calm to boat way down. Went form a 9" plate to a 7" plate, same thing as moving the strut back, just easier.
What are the differences one can expect when shortening the plate?
Chances are, since your v-drive is 93 inches up (most modern Biesemeyers are 96" with a 7.5deg. strut), you probably have a 8 or 8.5 degree strut. You should probably leave the motor up where is was, then shorten the plate down to the customary 7" length.That should help the boat to take a set and balance well. You said your prop was a 16p also. I think someone put that on there in an attempt for more tail lift to settle the boat down. and Billy is right, if you don't have the power to carry the nose, it will porpoise. You will need a smaller prop, and I would say to start with 12 or 15 gears. Gear it so you hit 6500 in about 1/4mile to keep the motor in it's powerband. Also, I have heard that the blast plate (directly above the prop) has a tendency to warp due to the low pressure area in front of the blade, and this further prevents the boat from taking a good set. Check it out with a straight edge. Also, check and post your dimension from the transom to the end of the strut barrel. If I remember correctly, it should be 20-21 inches.