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Hey guys just getting ready to think about putting the Motor in my boat it will be approx 500 HP 6500 RPM the boat has 18's and a 11 1/2 16 right now just wondering what you think for motor placement and gears here is a picture of the boat thanks
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...000222-med.jpg
nelson, i'm thinking 36 inches from the transom is where you need to be unless your setting it up for the circle races then i have no clue, some one on here will let you know..
36 from the back of the motor to the back of the transom
Normal setup would be around 34 to 36 inches from the inside of the transom to the back of the block for the HP your talking about. A SS will put out about 600 to 615 HP and they run anywhere from an 18 to a 22 gear depending on the race course. Are you going to be running off the flywheel or the snout??. Not that it matters just wondering. As far as gear goes I would put a 12 gear with a 11 1/4x141/2 or 15 if the motor will pull it. A Biesemeyer that is over geared and underpowered will hop instead of taking a set, not enough hp to hold the nose. Just my .02..:cool:
Thanks for the replys guys. Billy that is prob what was wrong with the boat before from what i understand it would not take a set. Again thasnks for the help oh and it will be running off the flywheel
Mine is 34" from the transom and that is the same as it was when it was a "K"!..:)
78 biesemeyer 36 from the trans to the plate and 96 to the v-drive plate to the transom. you should run off the balancer instead of the flywheel just my .02 :p
Originally posted by GofastRacer
Mine is 34" from the transom and that is the same as it was when it was a "K"!..:) A K boat with the same set up as a SS. Did that mean it had the same H.P. ??? LOL:D J/K
Nelson, what is the length of the cav plate from the transom to the end of the plate??. We shortened up one that was on the exact same hull as yours and it seemed to calm to boat way down. Went form a 9" plate to a 7" plate, same thing as moving the strut back, just easier.
Originally posted by BILLY.B
A K boat with the same set up as a SS. Did that mean it had the same H.P. ??? LOL:D J/K
LOL, nope I just put the motor where it was to begin with!...:D
Billy not sure i will check tomorow and let you know
Hey Art, will we see you in April ??. Rumor has it that the MRS. is going to run circles around a certain injected Daytona. And I don't want you to think it was DOS that told me that :D :D .
Originally posted by BILLY.B
Hey Art, will we see you in April ??. Rumor has it that the MRS. is going to run circles around a certain injected Daytona. And I don't want you to think it was DOS that told me that :D :D .
Yep I'll be there for sure!.:) As far as the MRS. running circles around me, that won't happen for a while sinse the project won't be done by then. And sinse I'll be building the motor, I have control over that!...:D :D :D
Ok guys this is Nelsonf i measured the Plate is 8 1/4 from the Transom and the V-Drive is 93 Inches from the Transom the Motor is 39 but i can move that easy enough when i put the new one in. Can you guys post some pics of the way you have the V-Drive braces set up mine go to the front of the boat so they are in the way i need to move the throttle pedal back so i can reach it but the bracket is in the way can i turn them around towards the back of the boat
Nelson, go to my profile and click the link it will take you to pics of the install of my Daytona!...If you have a GENUINE Biesemeyer, I would highly recommend installing the motor the right way, those hulls are built for circle racing and they have a built in twist and it has to do with turning left, with the motor facing the wrong way, the torque is to the right and that will prevent the boat from handling properly!..
Are you measuring the v-drive distance from the transom to the center plate or the back of the v-drive?. The correct measurment is to the v-drive plate. I just measured my old cav plates from when I had the SS motor in the boat and they are 7" from the transom to the end of the plate. With the "K" engine they are 10". Like I said we changed them on by buddies boat from 9" to 7" along with moving the engine 16" (was in at 21" and moved it to 37", it's a twin turbo'd small block) did a blue print job on the bottom and the boat went from the mid 90's to being GPS'd at 121. Not to shabby considering it wouldn't take a set before. :cool:
Let me tell you a little story. In 1973, my brother-in-law and I picked up a Stepped Deck Biesemeyer just like yours from Julian, Stage I. (bare hull with a strut and a cav plate) We weren't fortunate enough to have anyone knowledgable like Billy or Gofast to help us, so we proceeded to do the installation the on our own. We put the engine in, driven off the flywheel. After all, all the hardware was easily available to mount it that way. The boat even had a 9" plate on it. When we got done, the boat wouldn't take a set, but worst of all, if you ran the boat about 60 mph and let go of the steering wheel, the boat would turn right so hard it would almost throw you out of the boat. The faster you went, the harder you had to steer it to the left. Not good. So we took the boat to Bernies Boat Works in El Monte CA, and had him set it up right. (any ol timers remember the Late Great Bernie B? I could start a whole thread on him). All I'm saying is, do it right. It will only increase the value of the boat. Oh, and also, cut the plate to 7" and add two more turn buckles to the middle. Best of luck!
Billy i measured to the v-Drive plate it is 93 inches to the Transom. What do i need to run the Motor forward because it was always setup to run off the back.
Originally posted by BILLY.B
Nelson, what is the length of the cav plate from the transom to the end of the plate??. We shortened up one that was on the exact same hull as yours and it seemed to calm to boat way down. Went form a 9" plate to a 7" plate, same thing as moving the strut back, just easier.
What are the differences one can expect when shortening the plate?
Chances are, since your v-drive is 93 inches up (most modern Biesemeyers are 96" with a 7.5deg. strut), you probably have a 8 or 8.5 degree strut. You should probably leave the motor up where is was, then shorten the plate down to the customary 7" length.That should help the boat to take a set and balance well. You said your prop was a 16p also. I think someone put that on there in an attempt for more tail lift to settle the boat down. and Billy is right, if you don't have the power to carry the nose, it will porpoise. You will need a smaller prop, and I would say to start with 12 or 15 gears. Gear it so you hit 6500 in about 1/4mile to keep the motor in it's powerband. Also, I have heard that the blast plate (directly above the prop) has a tendency to warp due to the low pressure area in front of the blade, and this further prevents the boat from taking a good set. Check it out with a straight edge. Also, check and post your dimension from the transom to the end of the strut barrel. If I remember correctly, it should be 20-21 inches.
Whoa.....Secret Speed Stuff {shit}....as Paul would say...I just cleaned it up. Thanks guys, you just helped me beat that 126 dude, whoever he is......Hey, nelson, listen to these guys or better yet, take an average between them and you might be close!!!!:D Some of them may be into the Holiday cheer too soon!:D
Originally posted by CircleJerk
Thanks guys, you just helped me beat that 126 dude, whoever he is......
That depends. What's your average? I usually bowl a 185. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:
Bump.
Originally posted by BILLY.B
Nelson, what is the length of the cav plate from the transom to the end of the plate??. We shortened up one that was on the exact same hull as yours and it seemed to calm to boat way down. Went form a 9" plate to a 7" plate, same thing as moving the strut back, just easier.
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What are the differences one can expect when shortening the plate?
Originally posted by Snowboat
Bump.
Originally posted by BILLY.B
Nelson, what is the length of the cav plate from the transom to the end of the plate??. We shortened up one that was on the exact same hull as yours and it seemed to calm to boat way down. Went form a 9" plate to a 7" plate, same thing as moving the strut back, just easier.
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What are the differences one can expect when shortening the plate? Ken, it's the same as moving the strut back. A cavatation plate is only an extension of the boat. So by shortning the plate he is moving the strut back which should help keep the bow from hopping around seeing as Nelson doesn't have big power. Now if Nelson had a blown deal with lets say 1200 hp or "MORE" you'd have to go to at least a 10" plate to keep the boat from bow steering. K's tend to blow the tail and make them very difficult to drive as the boat will bow steer on the strakes. So by putting the longer plates on you have moved the strut forward 3" which in turns raises the bow and makes the boat more managable. GEAR CHANGE would also be a big help.
Originally posted by nelsonf
Billy i measured to the v-Drive plate it is 93 inches to the Transom. What do i need to run the Motor forward because it was always setup to run off the back. Nelson you would need to change your oil pan to a jet boat style (oil pick up at the back). You'd need the parts to drive off the harmonic balancer (solid drive line or u-joint drive shaft). Tom Bently from Menkens v-drives could help you out with the parts. If he doesn't have them i'm sure Rex Marine in San Dimas Ca. or Bergeron Marine in Tempe Ariz have what you need in stock.