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My Eclipse SE8495's came in today and they look great but I am going to be installing them where I previously had crappy 6 1/2's. I know that I could be running a huge risk drilling into the boats hull due to the risk of something going wrong and having to deal with a major problem. So what is the safest, easiest, and best way of going about enlarging the hole's for my 6x9's?
Also just how safe will the speakers be from the elements being that they aren't marine grade? They will be being installed on a 23 Foot Hurricane Deck boat. Thanks for any help.
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Upholstered panel or gel coated interior?
Gel coated Fiberglass.
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1. Air saw
2. Blue tape
3. Trace pattern
4. Cut
Easy.
I've never used the sawzall on fiberglass so I'm a little worried of being able to round out the curves. Is there an easy method? What proper blade should I be using?
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NOT A SAWZALL. An air saw.
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I use a $250 Matco non-vibration 10,000 rpm model, but for a weekend project, this would probably be fine. Use 24 tpi blades. Good blades are more important than a good saw. Snap on and Matco both sell blades for like $25/5. The good blades are made in Sweden.
The blade itself is thinner and less wide than a jig saw blade, you'll look like a figure skater cutting circles. ;)
Real good to hear as I'm pretty sure I still have a Milwaukee or Dewalt sitting under the tool bench, sorry I didnt understand you at first, the only thing I'll need now is some nice new blades and a couple files maybe. Thanks for the help.
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OK, I just did this exact same thing. Replaced 6 Sony crap 6.5's with MB Quart 6.5's. I thought that they would drop in but soon learned that there is no standard for speaker cut-outs like HU's have.
Here is what I did and it works great:
Got a $59 Dremel rotory tool at Home Depot. Buy a new bit for each cut because they dull quick. A new bit for each cut will make it cake. Use the plywood cutting bit, not a carbide metal or drywall bit.
Check for depth clearance on the new speakers with a measuring tape.
The MBQ's came with bitchen sticker templates that you cut right through that made it easy.
Use the 1/2 mini-drum sander bit to clean the holes up when you are done. Any jagged sections can be smoothed out nicely with this tool.
Wear a dust mask and stuff a towel in each hole before you cut to catch most of the dust that falls behind the panel. I would also wear some ear protection because the thing is loud enough to hurt your ears when cutting.
Mine turned out very nice and fit perfect.
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I was thinking the sawzall with a 12" blade would do the job....... :crossx:
I couldn't imagine not having a good air saw. Dremels work good in a pinch but the air saw is much faster and cleaner.
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I was thinking the sawzall with a 12" blade would do the job....... :crossx:
I couldn't imagine not having a good air saw. Dremels work good in a pinch but the air saw is much faster and cleaner.
Wish I would have known this before I did mine because it was a little bit of trial and error, but after the third one I had it figured out and it went quick. I guess that is what we pay the professionals for.
Looks like the air saw could get a little wild on you. Does it take a little practice? I guess from a novice standpoint, I liked the Dremel because it was very easy to control.
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Compared to an air saw, a Dremel is a loose cannon. Don't let looks deceive you, a Dremel with it's little tiny cutting tip can lead to all kinds of problems in the hands of the not so skilled.
I took my time and it was very easy to control. I did six holes in 3/8 ply covered with 1/8 fiberglass. As long as I used a new bit for each hole it was no problem. Came out very nice. The air saw must be a breeze because the Dremel was easy. Thanks for the tip.
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I took my time and it was very easy to control. I did six holes in 3/8 ply covered with 1/8 fiberglass. As long as I used a new bit for each hole it was no problem. Came out very nice. The air saw must be a breeze because the Dremel was easy. Thanks for the tip.
For round holes I have hole saws. A hole saw big enough for a 6.5" speaker will grab and rip your hands right off the drill if you don't know what your doing, but the holes are perfect!!! Those big bits are reverse only. The air saw moves so much faster than a sawzall and the stoke is very short since the blade is only 4"'s or so. It makes a buzzing sound it moves so fast. Very easy to control.
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For round holes I have hole saws. A hole saw big enough for a 6.5" speaker will grab and rip your hands right off the drill if you don't know what your doing, but the holes are perfect!!! Those big bits are reverse only. The air saw moves so much faster than a sawzall and the stoke is very short since the blade is only 4"'s or so. It makes a buzzing sound it moves so fast. Very easy to control.
I thought about the hole-saw for a minute but ruled it out quickly since there is no center point to use when enlarging an existing hole.
BTW, can you guys refer me to anyone local that can get a Sony XA-300 auxillary input expander delio?
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