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was wondering how you guys decide when to add/ remove shims in your ride plate, shoe, and or change your loader grate around. how big of a diffrence does a fine tune nozzle make? and if any of you rogers tr guys could help me out on some base settings i'm running a b impellor/ cav reducer in a blue printed pump with open center grate, shoe is 2 deg backcut has an agressor droop and normal place diverter. turns 5900rpm. but dont think its running as fast as it should be :idea: thanks in advance Adam
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Oh, Oh, another AGRESSOR droop! :jawdrop: :D Well, maybe you don't have the muscle to explode it. :220v: Ya'll need a GPS for good speed checks to work with the voodoo tune. I'm not a good authority on what ya need to do tho. I'll defer to others. :cool:
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was wondering how you guys decide when to add/ remove shims in your ride plate, shoe, and or change your loader grate around. how big of a diffrence does a fine tune nozzle make? and if any of you rogers tr guys could help me out on some base settings i'm running a b impellor/ cav reducer in a blue printed pump with open center grate, shoe is 2 deg backcut has an agressor droop and normal place diverter. turns 5900rpm. but dont think its running as fast as it should be :idea: thanks in advance Adam
When Cyclone was running a single carb 502, he was turning slightly less rpm (B impeller) and around 95 mph. I would address the pump 1st.
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turns 5900rpm. but dont think its running as fast as it should be :idea: thanks in advance Adam
What's it running now? (mph)
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was wondering how you guys decide when to add/ remove shims in your ride plate, shoe, and or change your loader grate around. how big of a diffrence does a fine tune nozzle make? and if any of you rogers tr guys could help me out on some base settings i'm running a b impellor/ cav reducer in a blue printed pump with open center grate, shoe is 2 deg backcut has an agressor droop and normal place diverter. turns 5900rpm. but dont think its running as fast as it should be :idea: thanks in advance Adam
If the bottom of your boat is stock (no bubble on the keel in front of the intake) then don't bother shimming the shoe below the keel line. It was my experience that adding a .030 shim on a back cut shoe caused my pump to overcharge (65-75 psi intake pressure readings as recorded by a Qwikdata system) and actually slowed my boat down at the track. Shimming the shoe also made shutting down over 110 mph really sketching and the boat bucked like a bronco. The best move i made to help my old TR was to cut off the turning fin flush with the bottom of the boat. because it was disturbing the flow of water into the intake. i had similar hardware to yours except i had and American Turbine long droop snoot. The boat worked great, aired out incredibly and ran great out the back door as long as the water and wind were cooperative. This was with my blower motor. When i had the naturally aspirated motor in the boat, it was also very quick out of the hole.
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cyclone i'm running your old pump. and not sure about the speed gps would only record up to 70 and then it was jumping all over the place so dont think that it was accurate. does have a 3/16 in stainless turning fin 54 in in front of transom but i'll give up the mph for the turning ability. also if you mean buy bubble when i blue printed the bottom i used fiberglass to even and smoothe the intrance into the intake.
thanks Adam
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adam, when you addressed the rounded keel leading into the intake are you sure you did not loose the form flowing into the pump (the bubble in the hull)
tyhat will also lead to different loading prob's.
Todd
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todd when i smoothed it in basically there was about an 1/8 in ridge where the intake met the hull on the intake itself there is less than 1 layer of glass so the shape should be the same
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call me tomorrow, i meant to ask you about that today!
