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Brand new motor and today I got water in the oil :mad: Every gasket is brand new! I know for a fact that it isnt the headers because I ran them dry(and yes they are gold and blue now :rolleyes: ). I am also leaking some serious oil into my bilge. Its not anywhere visible. It ends up about 2 inches left of the distributor. Its not leaking from the rear of the intake gasket because its dry and there is no oil where the gasket meets the intake and block,plus I used silicone over the gasket. This is really starting to piss me off and fast :mad: If its not one thing its another. How can I find the oil leak? Will a leak down find it? I was planning on going to op6 but if this keeps up I wont be able to go! Could someone please give me some ideas where to start???? I really wnat to get this taken care of and fast. Oh yeah the motor is a 455 olds(oil blowing water sucking motor).
396_Ways_To_Be_Pissed_Off!!!!!!!!!!
[ June 17, 2003, 07:43 PM: Message edited by: 396_WAYS_TO_SPIT ]
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I found the easiest way to find any leak is using a "smoke machine" if you can get access to one. If you have never seen one work, look on the internet. I have a shop by my house that has one. Its main use is for Vacuum leaks. I would think any big repair business would have one. Good look.
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What would work better for the oil leak than a smoker is adding ultraviolet dye to the oil, run it, then check the oil trail with a black light. Used them in dealers for years, beats the hell out of guessing. The water deal is just a PIA... from what I've heard most common water leak for 455 is the intake, but I seem to remember you already changing the intake gaskets. Try pulling your plugs, adding a fluid to the coolant passages, and pressuring the system. The dye is also available for cooling system diagnostics, too.
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396, did you have your heads resurfaced ??? if so the intake may not be correctly setting down and not sealing...seen this before ...
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Liberator TJ1984:
396, did you have your heads resurfaced ??? if so the intake may not be correctly setting down and not sealing...seen this before ... I agree if you had the heads surfasced you should have the maniflod done by the same people and also use the thicker gaskets. If your oil leak is 2 inchs left of the dist, is it the dist. gasket?
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Ok heres what I came up with. The dipstick hasnt shown signs of water yet,only the filler neck(milky). I used the rubber gasket for the front and rear of the intake, and it may be leaking. The intake kit comes with a gasket for the distributor but the distributor already has a o-ring on it. Should I use the other gasket as well? I am goint to pull the intake tomorrow and install a new gasket and put a thick bead of GM silicone on the front and rear of the intake manifold. Also, I think my temp was acting up so I bought a new sending unit(marine one). i had a car one and a local guy that has been helping me said it is different, so I bought a different one. I will post the results after mt thursday trip. i sure hope this works or I might be showing up at OP6 on my brand new jetski eek! eek! Boy, am I getting tired of this shit fast :rolleyes:
396
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Thunderbutt:
Liberator TJ1984:
396, did you have your heads resurfaced ??? if so the intake may not be correctly setting down and not sealing...seen this before ... I agree if you had the heads surfasced you should have the maniflod done by the same people and also use the thicker gaskets. If your oil leak is 2 inchs left of the dist, is it the dist. gasket? The heads werent off that much. He only took a little off, so I dont think thats the problem but it is a good place to start. Thanks for the idea guys wink
396
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I just went to mondollars site and I noticed that they have a high pressure spring for all oil pumps. Will this help me out any?? i also drilled a hole in the rear oil galley plug to oil the distributor, would this affect the oil pressure??
Any help is appreciated greatly. Thanks Michael
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How big of a hole? I think the factory hole was pretty small, like .020", too big and you will loose pressure. The high pressure spring will only help on the top end, not at idle. Most of the engines I've built over the years with stock pumps never went below about 25 pounds. When I'd build something with a HV pump they would never go below 30, usually 35 pounds at idle.
[ June 16, 2003, 08:37 PM: Message edited by: malcolm ]
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I think the hole might be a tab bit bigger than .040 if not the same. Well I guess I just have to pull the motor out "AGAIN" and put a new plug back in. i think I will be drilling a very,very small hole this time :confused: :confused: I sure hope this helps, if not I will be pissed off. i just want to be reliable at op6, is that too much to ask for??????????(Why Me)
396
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What if I put a new plug in with no hole? Will it make a huge difference? Do I have to have the a hole in that plug? Is it crutial?
396
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396_WAYS_TO_SPIT:
Ok heres what I came up with. The dipstick hasnt shown signs of water yet,only the filler neck(milky). 396 - If no water is showing up on the dipstick and only the filler neck is looking slightly milky, I'm kind of leaning toward low oil temperature. If your oil isn't getting up to proper temp, it won't burn off the condensation present inside the block.
Just my thoughts :)
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396_WAYS_TO_SPIT:
What if I put a new plug in with no hole? Will it make a huge difference? Do I have to have the a hole in that plug? Is it crutial?
396 I am not an Olds guy but that hole is there for a reason , heard people speak of them before so I would not plug it..
also I run low oil temps on my motor at times and inside the valve covers it looks like shaving cream eek! until I run it long enough to burn off condensation ,,,so if no water on dipstick or chocolate milk oil maybe its OK :confused:
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I agree with the above post on operating temp....You said you had a prob with that...What was the prob? Too hot, too cold?????
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Ok guys heres what I came up with today. I found a water colled oil cooler(for free). I am going to plumb it tonight. I am also going to pull the engine tomorrow and replace that plug with a new one and a smaller hole just to be safe.
I called mondollar and a guy told me I have to buy thier high/pressure volume pump from them and it would solve all my problems. He also said that my oil pressure should be 90-100lbs cold and 65-85 hot! I personally think that is insane!He also said an oversized hole in the pipe plug by the distributor wont make too much of a difference in the pressure. I am so confused its not funny :( :( When I start it up I have 40lbs of cold pressure@ idle and when hot it goes to 20lbs. Does the oil temp have something to do with this?? What if I run my motor cold? Will it affcet anything?
Michael
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Personally I would put the cooler on it , put 20-50 oil in it and drive it. The milk on the filler neck is just too cold of oil temp to burn the moisture out. all my engines run 100+ cold and 75-80 hot(sbc), but with a basically stock 455 too much
