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i see a lot of people using ball valves right next to there header lines.do people do this to help the flow in the headers.in other words to put just enough water in the pipes to keep them cool.my problem is when my t-valve opens to let water in it seams to put a small amount off condensation on my oil filler cap.it makes me a little nervous and wondering is there any thing i can do.i have from my pump a gate valve to a tee.those go to the front of the motor,from there it goes out of the top of the motor to the tee valve on one side and exits out with a gate valve towards the back of the boat.the cam im running an engle cam with a 248,258 at 50thds.it does have a little bit of over lap i just need to get it right this spring.some one please help.pics would be great.:confused:
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What temp is your motor running? Also do you have a pressure guage mounted in the intake crossover to monitor water pressure? Sounds like your running to cold or to much water pressure in your motor or both. You may have an intake gasket leaking also. Let your motor warm up good before you put your foot in it.
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I think the t valve, (spring loaded ball) is to prevent the water left in the engine when you shut it off from siphoning into the exhaust and running back into any open exhaust valves. The pressure required to open it is very low. The condensation is probably caused by the temperature differental that results from super cold lake water in the water jackets, and super hot temperatures on the other side of the castings. MOST jets run way too cold, mine included. My olds powered v drive runs through the exhaust logs prior to entering the motor, an option not available with headers.....Do not restrict the water into the motor, but you can slow down the exit, and allow temperatures to come up a little..........The t valve is only a siphon prevention device. You can put restrictors in the header tree fitting, to reduce the amount of water into the headers, but you've also got to dump it somewhere else....................Moneypitt
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I had the same problem with my OLDS. I would get milky oil in my oil filler tube and cap. When I would pull my valve covers off and there would be rust on the inside. I concluded it was condensation from the inital cold water passing through the hot block. I kept it under control by using 3/4 inch hose to the logs and 1/2 out to the intake manifold. That seemed to allow the water to stay in the logs long enough to heat up more.
