fuel pump ???

What mechanical fuel pump will handle 2 dominator carbs?
Will the clay smith pump work without any issues?
Im going to run a seperate elec pump for the go go juice.
Thanks in advance.

Clay smith will support 1400 hp. Should work fine for your deal.

Many out there using the Edlebrock 140 GPH pump. A lot less expensive than the Clay Smith and supports my 2 1150's. The Clay Smith is said to have heavier duty castings around the pivot arm, but not heard that it delivers more fuel--not sure on that.

Holley makes a 170 GPH pump for BBC and 130 for Ford...
http://www.holley.com/search.asp?que...eModel=&page=2

Since Holley re-designed their fuel pumps they are very unreliable. We have returned at least 6 in the last year and wont be using them any more. The pin that the arm pivots on is in a slot that has four small "peens" holding it in place and falls out. As a comparison, the Edelbrock is almost identical, however the pin is in a through hole so it is captured completely and can't fall out like the Holley.
Just a little .02

the only problem we have ever had with the OLD HOLLEY , edelbrock, etc. is the dome of the pump at the rocker tower junction cracks at sustained high R's. This is prolly the only pump to address the issue. Note how the mounting bolts extend out to the end of the rocker tower to stiffen up the casting.
http://www.candsspecialties.com/stor...umpnewbig.html

Rated @ 240gph @ 60psi unregulated
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/a...p_big/hex0.jpg

the only problem we have ever had with the OLD HOLLEY , edelbrock, etc. is the dome of the pump at the rocker tower junction cracks at sustained high R's. This is prolly the only pump to address the issue. Note how the mounting bolts extend out to the end of the rocker tower to stiffen up the casting.
http://www.candsspecialties.com/stor...umpnewbig.html
Those were good pumps. They were all made from the old Tomco pumps made back in the '70s.
I like the bolt hole design of the pump in your link.

What mechanical fuel pump will handle 2 dominator carbs?
Will the clay smith pump work without any issues?
Im going to run a seperate elec pump for the go go juice.
Thanks in advance.
Tim, It's easier to keep 4 fuel bowls full than 2.
Wide open still can only pull in "X" amount of fuel via airspeed. With 1 carb and 2 bowls, airspeed through the (1) carb is twice what it is than w/ the 2 carbs....leading to a slightly more difficult time of keeping the 2 fuel bowls full than with 4 fuel bowls w/ dual carbs. Meaning that the fuel level in the two carbs will be more stable and not pull down as quickly.
It's the 4/50cc accelerator pumps that throw the fuel in there and most Dominator carbs are like an on/off switch. They are not very progressive like a double pumper. (just to add)

the only problem we have ever had with the OLD HOLLEY , edelbrock, etc. is the dome of the pump at the rocker tower junction cracks at sustained high R's. This is prolly the only pump to address the issue. Note how the mounting bolts extend out to the end of the rocker tower to stiffen up the casting.
http://www.candsspecialties.com/stor...umpnewbig.html
Is that only on the "heavy duty" pump, or both BBC pumps? I've got a Holley right now, so if it breaks, I need to know what to replace it with ;)

that's a good question, one that I can't answer but seems that they should make them the same. My clay smith pump seems to be a heavier casting and hasn't cracked yet, try P.M. superdave on this site, he can set you up with one and the price is right. I have tried the "race pump" piston type and had been able to get it to work right but still working on it

the only problem we have ever had with the OLD HOLLEY , edelbrock, etc. is the dome of the pump at the rocker tower junction cracks at sustained high R's. This is prolly the only pump to address the issue. Note how the mounting bolts extend out to the end of the rocker tower to stiffen up the casting.
http://www.candsspecialties.com/stor...htmlHmmm...not to mention just a lot easier to install with the longer bolts. Only thing is, longer bolts mean more flex, which may not be an issue here, but there's always a trade off. I like the design.
The Edelbrock, IMO, has always been the mechanical go-to.

What mechanical fuel pump will handle 2 dominator carbs?
Will the clay smith pump work without any issues?
Im going to run a seperate elec pump for the go go juice.
Thanks in advance.There are a couple other threads about fuel flow requirements. If you know with relative accuracy what the HP is going to be at a given rpm, then you should be able to determin the fuel requirements in GPH. Example:750hp @ .5 lb fuel/hp/hr is roughly 62gph. (fuel weighs ~6#/gal) Most fuel pumps are rated at open/max flow, and are going to flow less at a regulated pressure, but still, any of these performance mechanical pumps should deliver enough fuel. It really dosen't matter how many carbs or what type you have. If you're adding an extra pump for the nitrous, then that should take care of that.

There are a couple other threads about fuel flow requirements. If you know with relative accuracy what the HP is going to be at a given rpm, then you should be able to determin the fuel requirements in GPH. Example:750hp @ .5 lb fuel/hp/hr is roughly 62gph. (fuel weighs ~6#/gal) Most fuel pumps are rated at open/max flow, and are going to flow less at a regulated pressure, but still, any of these performance mechanical pumps should deliver enough fuel. It really dosen't matter how many carbs or what type you have. If you're adding an extra pump for the nitrous, then that should take care of that.
Thanks Scott.
The engine is a 548 tunnel ram deal with a custom cam From Chris Straub. Its estimated @ 800-850 hp @ 6500 right now so thats why im trying to get my ducks in a row so I can dyno it and not have any fuel issues.

Thanks Scott.
The engine is a 548 tunnel ram deal with a custom cam From Chris Straub. Its estimated @ 800-850 hp @ 6500 right now so thats why im trying to get my ducks in a row so I can dyno it and not have any fuel issues.Chances are you're in the upper 300 to lower 400 BSFC range, so using .5lbs/hp/hr is realy safe. At that, you're looking at roughly 70 gph. net fuel requirement. Take into consideration regulated fuel flow, fuel line resistance/restriction, fittings, etc, and you can see that it dosen't take long to need a 130gph pump (free flow). The 130 is an arbitrary number, but the point is, it's better to have more fuel than not enough..within reason. You don't need a 500gph Barry Grant on there, either. It's best to have no less than a -8 coming into or out of the pump. If you're drawing off two tanks, run -8's into a -10, then to the pump, and at least a -8 from the pump to a T or regulator, and from there you can go to -6 to the carbs. Your T or regulator after the pump should be as close to the carbs as possible. If you're running an electric pump, it should be as close to the tank(s) as possible, and as low as possible. Electric pumps don't draw fuel very well at all; they're designed to push. Mechanical pumps will draw fuel from the tank much more effeciently, but still need generous supply lines. Some will argue as to where to place the fuel filter depending on your pump. I used the small Russel filters right out of my tanks and drew fuel through them through -8 lines, before the electric pump. This is to protect the pump from jamming due to any foreign material in the gas. The arguement here is, not to have an electric pump draw through a filter due to the added restriction, and that it should be placed after the pump, but the Russel filters IMO had min. restriction, and I believe it's more important to protect the pump. A mechanical pump will draw fuel through a filter with no problem.
Sorry if this got long, but IMO fuel systems need some particular attention to detail in order for them to work right.

Chances are you're in the upper 300 to lower 400 BSFC range, so using .5lbs/hp/hr is realy safe. At that, you're looking at roughly 70 gph. net fuel requirement. Take into consideration regulated fuel flow, fuel line resistance/restriction, fittings, etc, and you can see that it dosen't take long to need a 130gph pump (free flow). The 130 is an arbitrary number, but the point is, it's better to have more fuel than not enough..within reason. You don't need a 500gph Barry Grant on there, either. It's best to have no less than a -8 coming into or out of the pump. If you're drawing off two tanks, run -8's into a -10, then to the pump, and at least a -8 from the pump to a T or regulator, and from there you can go to -6 to the carbs. Your T or regulator after the pump should be as close to the carbs as possible. If you're running an electric pump, it should be as close to the tank(s) as possible, and as low as possible. Electric pumps don't draw fuel very well at all; they're designed to push. Mechanical pumps will draw fuel from the tank much more effeciently, but still need generous supply lines. Some will argue as to where to place the fuel filter depending on your pump. I used the small Russel filters right out of my tanks and drew fuel through them through -8 lines, before the electric pump. This is to protect the pump from jamming due to any foreign material in the gas. The arguement here is, not to have an electric pump draw through a filter due to the added restriction, and that it should be placed after the pump, but the Russel filters IMO had min. restriction, and I believe it's more important to protect the pump. A mechanical pump will draw fuel through a filter with no problem.
Sorry if this got long, but IMO fuel systems need some particular attention to detail in order for them to work right.
Im running a stack tank in front of the engine and its a -10 line to the fuel pump and then a -8 out to a reg and then split to -6 to both hardline carb lines. Im going to go with the clay smith pump, like you said more than enough is better than not enough. Thanks for your input.

That oughta work!
I didn't hear anything about a filter?? :idea:

That oughta work!
I didn't hear anything about a filter?? :idea:
Yeah its there, right off the tank...:D