Bravo 1 upper gear question

I pulled my upper apart for inspection and noticed that the brass thats on the gear is starting to wear a little..is this brass replaceable or does the gear need to be replaced..

It is not relacable by itself. You will have to replace the gear assembly

Will this brass that is wore cause a slip in the drive..im having a slip problem that i cant seem to figure out...One side of the brass is perfect and has the little step on it...the other side of the same gear..the brass is wore completely off...smooth....is this my problem

The brass rings are eccentric. They only aid in the shifting process. The shift cam rides against the brass area while shifting and not running "true" helps it shift. They will not cause slipping. 99% of the time slipping is the prop hub. If the cone clutch slips it will end up welding itself to fwd gear.
Is it slipping when you shift or under power? Worn brass rings will cause it to slip into gear instead of a more positive shift.

This Slpi is when i am under power...my shift is nice and firm...and doesnt slpi in or pop out of gear.....This slip is intermitant...sometimes it occurs when trying to get on plane...but mostly when i as at cruising speed and try to accelerate to WOT something starts to slip..The engine rpms go up but the boat does not accelerate...It sounds just like the prop is blowing out but i dont think the prop can blow out with the drive all the way down...I can see it blowing out when trimmed up or trimming up but not with the drive all the way down...is this correct or am i way off..

Bd is right, I would look at your hub, then your coupler. Any chunks of rubber in your bilge???? Pull your prop and inspect your hub, and/or put your drive in gear, and grab your prop and see if you can turn it without turning the motor. (motor not running of course:eek: )
I had a customer put a fish finder/depth finder directly in front of one of his drives, hanging below the drive. After he came in twice, and we could find nothing wrong with his boat, I finally asked if he had always had the fish finder there. It turned out he had just added it and the next time out he had problems. The fish finder was aerating the water in front of the prop, making it slip under load. Check to see if you have any thing that would disrupt the water or any damage in front of the drive or on the bottom your boat.

I put the drive in reverse and could not spin the prop forward without turning the engine over...man that took alot of brut strenght to do had someone in the enginge compartment wactching the shaft while i was turning the prop but the prop shaft and engine all turned over together...not much but was able to move it all......No rubber chunks in the bilge either..Nothing is new been added to the back of the boat..Only thing i did was to pull the top off the engine...installed a blower and changed the prop...Thats it....the drive is off now and when i look in the gimble housing...all the rubber is still intack on the engine coupler

I put the drive in reverse and could not spin the prop forward without turning the engine over...man that took alot of brut strenght to do had someone in the enginge compartment wactching the shaft while i was turning the prop but the prop shaft and engine all turned over together...not much but was able to move it all......No rubber chunks in the bilge either..Nothing is new been added to the back of the boat..Only thing i did was to pull the top off the engine...installed a blower and changed the prop...Thats it....the drive is off now and when i look in the gimble housing...all the rubber is still intack on the engine coupler
Ok, now we're getting somewhere. You added more power, and now your slipping under load? 3 or 4 blade? You added more power in the midrange, maybe you need more blades or more pitch. I know if that I have to keep my rpm's under 2k or so when I'm getting on plane or I just blow the prop out completely. I have to make an effort to keep the rpms down until it rolls over than I can get into it. It's probably something your not used to yet.

One more thing, you said you changed props. Is the prop brand new? Has it been worked on? I've had props that were worked on that never acted like they were when they were new. I had a 23 Mirage fixed years ago that once it was fixed I was never able to get on plane with it again. The guy who did the work ruined it. Since the only variables you changed are the extra power and a different prop, one or the other is probably causing your complaint.

I went from a bravo 1 24-4 blade to a Bravo 1 28-4 blade...Prop is box stock and never been worked..When it slips it sounds just it does when a prop blows out...But its doing it with the drive all the way down..Is it still possible to blow the prop out when the drive is all the way down

I went from a bravo 1 24-4 blade to a Bravo 1 28-4 blade...Prop is box stock and never been worked..When it slips it sounds just it does when a prop blows out...But its doing it with the drive all the way down..Is it still possible to blow the prop out when the drive is all the way down
I'm running a 28p Bravo 1 and I can definantly blow it out while getting on plane. It's extremely hard on your drive too, because as it starts to hook up it puts tons of stress on the drive.

i too can blow out the prop when trying to get on plane...but have worked thru that part....what should i do when im at cruising speed(3500 rpms) and i have it trimmed up a little to keep the boat flat...then i start to ease into the throttle and the engine winds up but the boat doesnt accelerate...maybe it is something i am doing wrong...i have even tried to drop the drive when cruising before going WOT then start trimming up slowly and it still does the same thing....I am open to any and all suggestion..

I dont know what hp you have but i have over 500 hp with a 28 lab finished brovo 1 and i cant blow it out unless the drive is trimmed or i turn to sharp my bet is you have a bad hub in the prop.

Completely went thru the upper and reset everything to merc specs...Even flipped the cone clutch over per mercs tech request as the reverse side of the cone very seldom wears out...put it all back together and put back on the boat...while drive was off i cleaned the coupler...Installed drive and with a yellow paint marker i put a line up the yoke splines to the center splines on the coupler and all the way up the rubber on the coupler ..took it out for a test flight and its still doing the same thing....checked coupler and marks are still perfectly aligned...What to try or look for next

Arn't all Brovo1 Hubs solid?

Arn't all Brovo1 Hubs solid?
No.... All Bravo I 1 1/4" XR hubs are solid, but you can get the standard 1" in plastic or solid