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Thread: Help with a Taylor

  1. #51
    shootingstar72683
    Some of the early boats came with WJ Jacizzi's, but Oscar Taylor usually always used E Series pumps ( or F), in his boats. They were much cheaper, (E Series Pump = Economy Series Pump ), because they cost a lot less and gave more room inside the boat. But, I special ordered several with the JC or JG pumps. So there are some out there with just about every kind of pump.
    E & F pumps were the factory run of the mill deal. The Snoot was originally designed for the Taylor boats. It is what we ended up with to take the porpoise out of the ones that had that problem. It works. Finding out that it made them and a lot of the other boats go faster was just an accidential plus.
    Is there a basic rebuild kit I should start with before I start adding the deverter,loader,shoe-plate?

  2. #52
    IMPATIENT 1
    I'm going to pull the cover off today. The wind has been blowin on top the mtn.,not hav'n a garage-shop anymore is rough at my age. Does this hook-up have u-joints connected to the flywheel like the 12jc pumps? The only way to feel for play is through the inspection cover? Is the impella the only place the jet can be losing speed?
    SINCE YOU HAVE A 12JE ,YOU CAN'T REALLY TURN THE PUMP TO GET A FELL ON IT.THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE PUMP AND CRANK DOES NOT COMPRESS DOWN TO SLIDE OFF OF THE PUMP SPLINES.YA HAVE TO SLIDE ENTIRE MOTOR FORWARD. THIS IS ONE OF THE DOWNFALLS OF THE EPUMPS 3 POINT SETUP.THE DRIVE LINE IS BOLTED TO YOUR CRANK AND SLIDES ONTO THE PUMP DURIN INSTALL. THERE'S ALOT OF THINGS THAT CAN MAKE A BOAT SLOW.

  3. #53
    SmokinLowriderSS
    The pump is hellishly simple. If you unbolt the cables, and take tyhe bolts off from arround the bowl, and yank, the whole end comes off in your hands. There SHOULD be oil drain out from the tail-bearing once the bowl is off the shaft as the shaft is no longer in the lip-seal. have a BFW (really large wrench) available and the impeller nut comes off (a nylock) On mine, a couple stout yanks and the impeller comes off but is on about a 3" woodruf key. Some folks have to use a puller to get it off. Then you can REALLY look the impeller over. The shaft comes out the front so the engine MUST be moved. In my SS, the engine will go far enough to 1 side to slide the thrust bearing out JUST past the oil pan. Don't ever let a thrust bearing go bad on you, the impeller and shaft move fwd and eat parts up, generally suction housing and engine trhrust bearing/crankshaft/block. The pump should run smoothly, vibration and noise free. A small "rattle" at idle from the splined shaft in the coupler is normal and not cause for alarm, althouth, if mine rattles, I have never been able to hear it.
    AS said, lots of things will slow ANY boat down, a jet too.
    Rough hull at the rear
    Ride not bow-high so dragging a lot of hull in the water
    excessive gap between the impeller front ring and the wear ring which seals the low pressure side (front) of the impeller from the high pressure side (rear). Extra gap reduces the pump's ability to generate pressure as water backwashes arround the impeller to be pumped again, and again.
    too small of a nozzle opening
    too large of a nozzle opening
    motor unable to spin impeller very fast (weak motor or too big an impeller). For example, same motor, Say, A-imp and 60 MPH, AA imp and 50MPH but better mileage from lower RPM but not using all the motor's power available.
    Cavitation (air bubbles forming in the pump) from rough impeller, intake imperfections, poor pump loading at higher speeds, being airborne, etc.
    I'm probably missing a few things, (like the passenger, the skiier, 2nd beer cooler and the 2 anchors) but that should be a good general starting list FYI.
    Best speed (as with any boat) is in the setup entire package, engine/drive/hull/ride position/weight

  4. #54
    SmokinLowriderSS
    Is there a basic rebuild kit I should start with before I start adding the deverter,loader,shoe-plate?
    IMO, it would be best to at least open the pump up and give it a thorough inspection to see just how "tight" it is before trying to chase speed. DuaneHTP at http://hi-techperformance.com/ sells a rebuid kit for a good price, has all the parts, sans impeller. You SHOULDN"T need one of those (impeller) unless yours has been eating rocks & sand. Rocks chew the blade edges up, sand eats up the gap between the wear ring & impeller. IMO, Duane makes the best wear ring too, "Ultimate Wear Ring", polyurethane. Easy to install, lasts a VERY long time (mine is 15 yrs old, near 200 hrs), is somewhat "self-healing" from minor sand damage, I like it, especially for a lake boat. The impeller blades knife edges can get curled slightly from wear (very sharp edges) and should be filed flat, get advice here, only file 1 side. The curl (burr) that forms causes cavitation eventually.
    Once you have a known tight pump, I reccomend a diverter and ride plate as #1/1A mods. The diverter changes the whole boat's personality and expands it's abilities a great deal. The ride plate lets you set the attitude of the hull at full speed with the diverter up to not get a porpose going (too bow-high) yet not drag too much (bow low). I put shoes and other mods 3rd and down, finer tuning after trhe diverter & rideplate are on & adjusted.

  5. #55
    shootingstar72683
    IMO, it would be best to at least open the pump up and give it a thorough inspection to see just how "tight" it is before trying to chase speed. DuaneHTP at http://hi-techperformance.com/ sells a rebuid kit for a good price, has all the parts, sans impeller. You SHOULDN"T need one of those (impeller) unless yours has been eating rocks & sand. Rocks chew the blade edges up, sand eats up the gap between the wear ring & impeller. IMO, Duane makes the best wear ring too, "Ultimate Wear Ring", polyurethane. Easy to install, lasts a VERY long time (mine is 15 yrs old, near 200 hrs), is somewhat "self-healing" from minor sand damage, I like it, especially for a lake boat. The impeller blades knife edges can get curled slightly from wear (very sharp edges) and should be filed flat, get advice here, only file 1 side. The curl (burr) that forms causes cavitation eventually.
    Once you have a known tight pump, I reccomend a diverter and ride plate as #1/1A mods. The diverter changes the whole boat's personality and expands it's abilities a great deal. The ride plate lets you set the attitude of the hull at full speed with the diverter up to not get a porpose going (too bow-high) yet not drag too much (bow low). I put shoes and other mods 3rd and down, finer tuning after trhe diverter & rideplate are on & adjusted.
    Sure thank ya. I'm in touch with Duane. Going to get the kit fer sure. Now that you've given me enough information to get in trouble, I've got to take it apart now, just to see it. Being that ya'll here to guide me through just incase of the hidden spring that flies out, or the ballbearing that goes rolling accross the floor. You know the part that ya sit there for a second, then respond " WHERE THE HECK THAT CAME FROM"

  6. #56
    shootingstar72683
    SINCE YOU HAVE A 12JE ,YOU CAN'T REALLY TURN THE PUMP TO GET A FELL ON IT.THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE PUMP AND CRANK DOES NOT COMPRESS DOWN TO SLIDE OFF OF THE PUMP SPLINES.YA HAVE TO SLIDE ENTIRE MOTOR FORWARD. THIS IS ONE OF THE DOWNFALLS OF THE EPUMPS 3 POINT SETUP.THE DRIVE LINE IS BOLTED TO YOUR CRANK AND SLIDES ONTO THE PUMP DURIN INSTALL. THERE'S ALOT OF THINGS THAT CAN MAKE A BOAT SLOW.
    To pull the motor; Unbolt the exhaust, the mid mounts,(from the stringers, or motor, or does it matter?).Then the motor is free to pull forward and out? It'll come out with a shaft connected to the crank. There is no flywheel? The starter bellhousing comes out together with the motor?

  7. #57
    SmokinLowriderSS
    To pull the motor; Unbolt the exhaust, the mid mounts,(from the stringers, or motor, or does it matter?).Then the motor is free to pull forward and out? It'll come out with a shaft connected to the crank. There is no flywheel? The starter bellhousing comes out together with the motor?
    Loosten the 2 bolts at the bottom of the bellhousing at the drive. There is an upside-down saddle-clamp arrangement there with a large rubber "band" vibration isolator between the bellhousing and the drive snout.
    There is either a flywheel or (more likely) a flexplate. you have to have something to engage the starter. The drive coupler bolts with 4 bolts tho directly to the end of the crank thru the flexplate.
    Don't forget to take the wiring loose. :idea:

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