Reply With QuoteI have been told that when you use the aluminum logs you should not use a gasket, just Hitemp silicon, I always used gaskets on my old logs along with some Hitemp silicon but my old logs were totally wasted.
Hustler
I'm relacing a set of of Indmar log headers (several cracks) with a new set of Glenwood. When I removed the old headers, the gasket fell off (no sealer on either side).
Does adding a exhaust gasket sealer (assuming there is stuff) on both sides of the gasket add assurances of a seal, or does it create a problem?
Thanks
I have been told that when you use the aluminum logs you should not use a gasket, just Hitemp silicon, I always used gaskets on my old logs along with some Hitemp silicon but my old logs were totally wasted.
Hustler
I have had my exhaust (aluminum) logs milled and they still leak. I do use gaskets. The metal ones. Maybe I am doing it wrong. Should I use copper RTV?
I always used the copper silicon on both sides of the gasket, I just bought a set if indmar logs that have the cooling running through the flange so I hope this will help with the warping, jroos you should look into a set of new ones or a newer set of used I had the same problem as you with my old logs I had serfaced probaly 3-4 times
Hustler
[This message has been edited by Hustler (edited March 18, 2002).]
You don't need RTV on exhaust gaskets. If you use those paper gaskets just soak them in water for about an hour before you install them. They'll work forever. Or just buy copper ones. They work great. The thing with using no gaskets is there is a BIG difference between aluminum (I'm assuming your logs are aluminum) and iron expansion. I always use a gasket and haven't had many problems.
Just milling the manifold is not always enough to get a good seal... A lot of manifolds are cut/split on the flange bolt holes between the individual ports. This allows the port flanges to warp independently/random of each other. When you mill the flanges, the side that mates to the head is flat again, but the bolt side is out of line with the port next to it. When installed, This causes the bolt and washer to clamp the high side and gives little clamping force to the low side. I,ve had real good results by carfully grinding the clamping areas on the bolt side untill they match heights.
Just received my new Glenwood headers. Glenwood places a cut (1/16") all of the way through each bolt flange. I'm presume that this allows each exhaust port to move without distorting the rest of the exhaust port flanges - reason we damn things leak / seep and require constant pampering?
As anyone tried this on Indmar or other aluminum log headers makes with results. This seams to make a lot of sense, or do I seam to make no sense?
Later
My Indmar logs are cut the way you describe. I always thought that was how they came from the factory, but maybe not.
I remember this being a trick in the old days to get those cheap sets of headers on my street car to seal for more than a week.
I use the black hi temp RTV and have had no problems for 2 seasons. Just lucky I guess!
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