This is the 3rd Taylor jet boat I have worked on and all of them have no gate valve on the cooling restricting the water pressure :sqeyes:
Is this right??
The one I am working on now water comes into the boat to a T then to the log type manifold (preheating) then into the front of the block and then out the top to the snails in the back of the exhaust.
This guy has a T-stat kit but has the top to holes plugged
I thought 1 you need a gate valve to restrict pressure and control temp t-stat control that too??
2 The hoses in the front of the block should be in a T and go up to the t-stat housig on the top
Help :messedup:
Standard Taylor routing is pump to tee (no valve), tee to each log, logs to block inlets (water oump), water outlet (stat housing) to snails. Sounds exactly like what you have.
If there is no actual stat in the housing you should be OK. I'm guessing there isn't or you would have blown a gasket or something by now with the bypasses plugged off.
The top holes should go to a t on the block water inlets. Make sure he has the spring, the black plastic part above the spring and the thermostat inside the housing.
If the two bottom holes in the t stat both dump water into the snails you should not have a water pressure problem thereby eliminating the need for a gate valve to control water pressure.
Usually people put gate valves to control temperature not water pressure. Two dump lines should control block pressure. However, a ball valve should be put in by the pump in case you bust a line you can shut off water coming into the boat so you don't sink it.
Right on the temp issue and I looked he has no T-stat in the housing its gutted out :cry:
Only issue now is engine temp I think I will run a gate valve inline to limit flow so motor warms up more than 120 degrees :idea:
Also for the emergency shutofff reason
Would the guy you're working on it for consider putting the t-stat back in operation? You can get the individual parts you need from Rex. Mine never had one and ran around 120 to 140. After installing, it got up to 160 really quick, and never went over 175.
I opted for the kit after reading about oil's lubrication properties and at what temp they worked best. Also about more efficient combustion qualities at those temps. All this with no shortage of water flow as the ball valve at the pump stays wide open. Just what I've found on the boards and in HBmag
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