BBF Head question

[likwidsukr]

Is this basically the same as DoVE.
""these are good used 1968 heads C8VE-E for a ford 460 they have around 2000 miles on them they had a triple angle valve job and new valves and new springs they are in bolt on and go condition these are hard to find I bought them on ebay about 1 year ago for over $500.00 get them for less than that remember these are heavy and not cheep to ship good luck bidding""
He is wanting $450.00 :sqeyes:

[LakesOnly]

Is this basically the same as DoVE.
"these are good used 1968 heads C8VE-E for a ford 460 they have around 2000 miles on them they had a triple angle valve job and new valves and new springs they are in bolt on and go condition these are hard to find I bought them on ebay about 1 year ago for over $500.00 get them for less than that remember these are heavy and not cheep to ship good luck bidding"
He is wanting $450.00 :sqeyes:
C8VE-A, C8VE-E, C9VE-A, D0VE-A and D0VE-C are all of the early-style cylinder heads that are essentiallly identical to one another. I personally prefer the C8 and C9 heads because the Thermactor passages are never drilled in those castings.
There is no indication as to whether or not they have any port work. The factory 429/460 iron heads react noticably different depending on the porting approach, and poorly ported castings can sometimes be difficult to correct/improve upon with additional grinding once the wrong material is removed. Find out if any port work has been done.
My early-style castings--cleaned, blasted and bare/unassembled--sell for $200-$275 depending on the set. I recently sold a freshly rebuilt pair of D0VE-C heads on eBay for just $305 with new valve job including bronze guide inserts, never run since rebuild. So stock componentry doesn't hold much value when the buyer wants to ditch it all and add big stainless valves, etc. Makes me feel $450 is bit of a steep price for nice, freshly prepped, unported castings with a brand new valve job and not yet run...at least on ebay. Sounds like these heads have been run and still have stock valve sizes, etc. You need to ask this guy more questions about what's in those heads for that price. Stock springs or aftermarket? Valve sizes and material? Any portwork? Etcetera. The answers to these questions will make or break the value of the deal relative to his asking price.
LO
If you want early-style heads with proper portwork, I can offer you freshly ported bare castings and advise you how to set them up for your specific build...or I can send you fully assembled heads with big valves and nice springs, etc. Shipping from coast-to-coast is about $38 per head, though.

[likwidsukr]

C8VE-A, C8VE-E, C9VE-A, D0VE-A and D0VE-C LO
If you want early-style heads with proper portwork, I can offer you freshly ported bare castings and advise you how to set them up for your specific build...or I can send you fully assembled heads with big valves and nice springs, etc. Shipping from coast-to-coast is about $38 per head, though.
Paul,
I have the D3ve heads. Am I wasting my time trying to make a "nice" set or should I get some Better heads. Also I am wanting some roller rockers, keeping the extra work in mind to use the d3 heads is also a thought. In other words can a set of d3 heads with some port work be capable of supporting 500 hp. With good a good setup/valvetrain/cam etc
Steve

[LakesOnly]

Paul,
I have the D3ve heads. Am I wasting my time trying to make a "nice" set or should I get some Better heads. Also I am wanting some roller rockers, keeping the extra work in mind to use the d3 heads is also a thought. In other words can a set of d3 heads with some port work be capable of supporting 500 hp. With good a good setup/valvetrain/cam etc
Steve
My D3's support 580HP with a small .232@.050" cam. Granted, they are max effort. I want to eventually go to a 533 shortblock under my D3's and will be shooting for 650HP with a solid lifter cam. So yes, it's possible to have very nice D3's.
500HP in your case is easy with the D3VE heads. The only additional mod that needs to be done to the D3's and not the early-style castings is the valve train mod. And keep in mind that this mod will cost less than the purchase of those early-style heads. Finally, in your case you don't necessarily need to perform this mod if you run the Crane roller tip adjustable rockers for the D3VE heads that I sent you a picture of earlier.
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/4158...-02000180-.jpg
They're a bolt-on deal, pushrod guideplates and all. The money for the early-style heads can go to your valve train.
Good intake valve bowl blending and proper overall exhaust port work on the D3's (or D0VE's) will be necessary, as well as a good cam kit and flat-top pistons for your D3's.
If it's 500HP you want, remember you have the option of spending the $450 for those D0VE heads on your D3 mods (big valves, etc.).
If you think you will be needing more compression ratio in the future for a higher horsepower build, it might be better to invest in the early-style heads at this point. Or, you may build your 500HP D3-headed motor now and then take your sweet time prepping some early-style heads for a head swap down the road. Just remember that flat-tops and D3's will give you around 9.5:1 compression ratio (pump gas) and swapping to the early heads will bump c/r to about 11:1 (high octane gas).
LO

[LakesOnly]

Paul,
I have the D3ve heads. Am I wasting my time trying to make a "nice" set...
Dude, if somebody is telling you that D3's are "smogger" heads, then they are living in the yesteryear of 429/460's and unaware that:
the intake port architecture of D3's versus early-style castings are damn near identical.
techically speaking, the exhaust port short-turn radius is better than the early-style castings.
It is NOT an open chamber head; it is a quench-style, closed chamber head just like the early-style except that it is 96 cc's instead of 76 cc's.
The have now been successfully ported to flow on par with early-style castings and support similar HP numbers.
D3's were presumed to be smogger heads because they arrived with the gas crunch, hence the bigger combustion chambers for the purpose of lowering compression ratio. Today, this can be of benefit if you are building the (now popular) stroker and wish to keep pump gas friendly compression ratios.
Further, the D3VE head followed the open chamer D2VE head which Ford ditched after only a year because of its lesser perfomance relative to the other two designs. The fact that the D3VE head followed the D2 probably did not help its reputation early on and so it was presumed a poor design head.
LO

[Squirtin Thunder]

The problem is people are Stupid. They call an Airpump a smog pump. They call the Air boss a Smog bump. It has been proven many times leaving the Air pump on an engine will actually creat more power and burn cleaner,put less emitants into the atmospher.

[likwidsukr]

Finally, in your case you don't necessarily need to perform this mod if you run the Crane roller tip adjustable rockers for the D3VE heads that I sent you a picture of earlier.
http://a1.cpimg.com/image/49/C8/4158...-02000180-.jpg
They're a bolt-on deal, pushrod guideplates and all. The money for the early-style heads can go to your valve train.
LO
Paul I did not forget that PM. Is it just as good to use them as doing the mod and getting the gold series? That is where I learned about the D3 roller rocker ( Crane gold etc.) problem. I remember the crane rollors you had talked about. I am happy now and I'm keeping my D3's. I will get a good formula later on port flow and etc.

[Squirtin Thunder]

I would not waste my money on roller tips for anything. For about $50 more you can get a full roller rocker. I don't recomend the Crane conversion on anything with over 98lbs on the seat. The weak spot is at the flange where it swiches from 5/16 to 7/16. They break !!!! They also break at 28ftlbs of torque when installing. The funny thing is they always give you 2 extra studds.
Jim

[LakesOnly]

Is it just as good to use them as doing the mod and getting the gold series?
A Crane Gold Series rocker is a true roller rocker and would be a superior to the Crane roller tipped rockers pictured above. The machining and retapping of the cyliner head takes no time at all; then just buy the Crane Gold Series and some rocker studs. With ARP rocker studs and the Gold Series rockers, you would have a very nice set-up that would not only support your build but much higher horsepower builds down the road.
LO

[LakesOnly]

Here is the print for the modification:
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...destal_Mod.jpg
And here are the before and after pics:
http://www.reincarnation-automotive....tal-labled.jpg
http://www.reincarnation-automotive....ned-tapped.jpg
(photos courtesy of SMJ/RHP)
LO