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Thread: Question Regarding Block Water Pressure

  1. #11
    bp
    by washout, i mean the holes in the small brass pipe fittings in the headers can enlarge over time, just from the water flowing through them. when i first got my boat, i had two that had almost 1/8" holes. water flow was huge. the holes were all different sizes. these things can be taken out, cleaned, brazed, redrilled. make sure you coat them good with antisieze when you put them back in.
    if you're gate valve is missing the handle, maybe replace the valve? pliers will chew up the stem. if you can get a replacement handle that is the appropriate fit, and carry it with you in the boat, fine. but the handle should be on there, marked so you know where it was the last time you moved it. they're not that expensive at the local hardware store. since you have a guage, you can set your pressure to a reasonable level, so you're able to maintain 130-140 at 4k. see what pressure you have at idle too...
    the water injection isn't really there to prevent the headers from turning blue. the bluing of the chrome has more to do with the quality level of the chrome job (prep, etc.) and engine tune-up.

  2. #12
    oldbuck40
    "What cause the driver side to flow steam before the passenger side?"
    Not related to driver or passenger, just line pressure in each circuit (and exhaust back pressure). It doesn't take much to convince flow to favor one side or the other. Like you mentioned, calcium deposits can do it so can debris. I've found that a perfect balance will seldom stay perfect every other trip to the lake. So I adjust balance as needed. It's no big deal, just a couple 1/4 balls on the front within easy reach of the driver.
    jeri had the same problem on my taylor sj seems the previous owner had cut the supply line's after the bassett T that go to the headers at two different length's.???why he did that i have no clue,but i changed them out to equal lengths and it fixed! water or any other liquid will take the shortest route out with the least resistance...

  3. #13
    PC Rat
    The handle on the gate valve was removed, so I haven’t tried to adjust it. I guess I could use a pair of pliers but I was also concerned with reducing the flow through the engine and creating steam pockets.
    If you break a cooling line, you'll wish you had the handle.
    Brian

  4. #14
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    1,593
    If you break a cooling line, you'll wish you had the handle.
    Brian
    Or really really good bilge pump. The handle is part of the equation and on my list.

  5. #15
    PC Rat
    I posted a question in a thread on cooling that I can't find so I'll reask here.
    bp stated that the dump line from the block should be at the highest point. I assume that this is to release all the air, if so, why wouldn't the water pressure in the block push out all the air?
    Brian

  6. #16
    bp
    brian, you will vent all the air with very little pressure if the vent is located at the highest elevation in the system? does that make sense? for example, if you plumbed the inlet into one water pump inlet, and the outlet from the other water pump inlet (just for an elevation example), no matter how much water you put through there, you would never expel all the air, because you would not be able to generate pressure due to the air pockets.

  7. #17
    PC Rat
    Thanks bp.
    Now about the water inlet. On my Placecraft had the water going into the engine on the sides of the block at the bottom. I kind of liked that location for the reason that it would slightly flush out the system when the boat was loaded up since the water drained out the bottom.
    What advantage is it to have the inlet at the water pump holes?
    Brian

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