I just checked the water pressure in my block by putting a water pressure gauge where I had a pipe fitting cap. I checked it from the front of the manifold next to the water outlet divider tee. At 3,000 RPM it was 20 psi and at 4,000 RPM it registered 35 psi. However, a friend of mine said that I probably got a false high reading (possibly by as much as 10psi) because I should have plumb the gauge on the back side of the manifold. He explained that this would give a more true reading because it was somewhat in the middle of the water flow. Would the location of the water pressure gauge really make that much of a difference in psi?
No. Pressure is pressure, regardless of where you plumb into the system you are still reading "back" pressure. That is the amount of resistance the water sees as its trying to exit the engine, and the built up pressure is read as PSI. Is this a BBC? If it is there are no water passages at the back of the manifold. The heads have water there, but the manifold is dry...............MP
That's too high. Your headers must be way over watered. First make your outlet lines -10 or better all the way out. Then restrict the water flow out of the jet pump if the pressure is still over 15-20 PSI. The original Berkeley fitting at the pump has a restriction built into it.
DJ
Do you have one dump line out of the engine or two. If you only have one, add another and that will fix your problem.
I am not blowing pure water out of the headers there is steam but it is mixed with a light spray of water. It looks to me if I turn the ball valve down anymore I am going to blue the headers. I have also had vegetation from the river water actually clog up one of my lines just before the water injector that caused a nice blueing of my driver side headers. I have never been completely satisfied with the set up and thought the Banderlog valve combined with an additional dump line would eliminate some of these nuisances or at least get me on the right track. I am also going to run 10AN line for the engine and 8AN for the headers.
35#'s is way too much pressure. It should be around 22-28# at WOT. BAM sells a Merc pressure regulator for around $100 that plumbs in-line. Part #863208A3
I have also had vegetation from the river water actually clog up one of my lines just before the water injector that caused a nice blueing of my driver side headers.
Is there any place that sells a strainer less than a couple hundred bucks?
Brian
Here my two cents. You don't need -10 lines for the engine, -8 should work fine for you. You need two dump lines, this will reduce your block pressure. A Banderlog valve is a good investment, you can splice into your inlet water line to get water to the Banderlog valve that way, water does not have to go all the way through engine then to the headers. I made my own water valve that serves the same purpose as the Banderlog valve. This will also allow you to use both holes on the thermostat housing as dumps.
As for a water strainer, West Marine has a a line of water strainers, i put one on my inlet water to catch trash so my solenoid valves for my headers dont get clogged up.
I had an extra hole in the dash board so I bought a water pressure gage. I plumed it into the intake next to the thermostst housing where the water dumps into the headers and I show no pressure on the gage. What did I do wrong?
I had an extra hole in the dash board so I bought a water pressure gage. I plumed it into the intake next to the thermostst housing where the water dumps into the headers and I show no pressure on the gage. What did I do wrong?
You shouldnt get much pressure if any at idle. Have you run the engine through its RPM range? The pressure will increase the higher the RPM. I just ran my gauge at the intake with a reducer fitting. Maybe there is a kink in the line from the intake to the gauge.
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