check out my wiring diagram...

[cruser]

No matter where you hook the charger, the current will make it to all the batteries. Just wire the positives together and the negatives together and hook the positive/negative leads where convenient, near the batteries, and they will all charge to the same level. This is assuming the battery leads are big enough to carry the charging current.

[Essex29]

OK, now that I am throughly confused.....PLESE HELP!!!
This is what I am trying to connect:
3 amps...2 4 channel , 1 2 channel
3 stereo batteries 1700's
2 boat batteries Megatron 24's
4 pair 6.5's in the cabin
1 pair 6x9's in the bow..should I just run them off of the stereo's power??
2 pair 6.5 mounted to the hatch..similar to Rocky's
4 10's subs...that what is currently in there
2 perko's
3 bank charger
Do I need a seperate amp for the speakers under the hatch?
It's a big boat, but not a lot of options for mounting the amps...I'll have to put them in the motor area.....fans??? or will it just be moving hot air?
I need some very specific instructions!!Keep it simple and spell everything out. Diagrams would be great too!!
Thanks!!

[Essex29]

Since all of the "guru's" were away for the weekend I thought I would bring this TTT....

[RiverDave]

OK, now that I am throughly confused.....PLESE HELP!!!
This is what I am trying to connect:
3 amps...2 4 channel , 1 2 channel
3 stereo batteries 1700's
2 boat batteries Megatron 24's
4 pair 6.5's in the cabin
1 pair 6x9's in the bow..should I just run them off of the stereo's power??
2 pair 6.5 mounted to the hatch..similar to Rocky's
4 10's subs...that what is currently in there
2 perko's
3 bank charger
Do I need a seperate amp for the speakers under the hatch?
It's a big boat, but not a lot of options for mounting the amps...I'll have to put them in the motor area.....fans??? or will it just be moving hot air?
I need some very specific instructions!!Keep it simple and spell everything out. Diagrams would be great too!!
Thanks!!
I don't know jack shiznit about the wiring / stereo end of things, but a "pimp" would change the amps over to water cooled..
RD

[Sweet Addiction]

I don't know jack shiznit about the wiring / stereo end of things, but a "pimp" would change the amps over to water cooled..
RD
Thats the funniest thing I have read all day.

[probablecause]

I would be very careful about having an aftermarket charger for charging the three 1700 batteries. That charger listed draws 120 volt current as it power source (ie. Wall plug or generator) and then converts it to 12volt and sends the AMPs downline to your batteries. Unless you have a generator to power this thing, it will not work like you intend it to. The charger you have listed is like and RV inverter/charger which is designed for a alternate power source (ie. Generator or wall plug).
It sounds like your goal is to make sure that no matter what, you can charge those batteries up in the shortest amount of time and to be able to start you boat - no matter what. If that is the case. Use only one battery for the starter and essential boat items like the lights etc. I would then run my stereo and everything else off of the four batteries. Go out and buy a high output alternator (direct replacement) that puts out high amps and just let the running engine it work its magic when you start the boat. Go to www.alternatorparts.com (http://www.alternatorparts.com) and you will see alternators with outputs as high as 250 amps. Mastervolt (http://www.mastervolt.com/alphapro/index.asp) has a great product which I think is exactly what you are looking for to keep the batteries topped off.
You only need one Perko switch - #1 for the starter and basics, and #2 for your monster stereo system.
Like Roz has stated, Just make sure since you are using 12 volt batteries that you run them from Positive Lead to Positive lead (leap frog or "parallel") and the same with the negative. If you go positive to negative on the three battery bank, you will end up with a 36 volt system (12volts x 3 batteries). The same applies on the other two where you will end up with 24 volts. When you leap frog from same terminal to same terminal you are creating the same 12 volt current but with more capacity (ie. longer run time). Make sure you use deep cycle marine/rv type batteries.
No matter what, you should always use a fuse block / panel / bank between the batteries and the equipment. Personally, I would run one fuse for each item only because if you start to blow fuses, you will know what item is causing the problem. You get really trick out the installation by running a completely separate switch panel of toggle switches with their own fuses, etc., it's only money.
Remember, If you have two different sizes of battery on the different battery banks and you throw the switch to the middle "BOTH" (so that all five are running concurrently), the batteries equalize and will drain to the lowest battery. You can PM me if you want to talk via phone.

[ROZ]

http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...26gg_basic.bmp
Orange = RCA's from Headunit into amps
Red = all power cables
Black = all grounds
Blue = remote turnon from headunit to amps via a relay
All speakers are parallel. I don't know what subs or sub amp you have, so don't follow that diagram. I madeit to indicate the sub amp.
The 2 4ch amps are in 2channel input 4ch output mode.
Also, depending on how you run your rca's, you could put a low level attenuator inline so you can adjust your bow 6x9's and underhatch speakers independently from just the headunit
Also remember that the main power and ground runs need to be mimicked. meaning same gauge wires...
Kinda gives you a visual...

[ROZ]

GG,
Remember to fuse everywhere I located and to make GREAT connections on ALL of your wires... I don't want you burning your boat down... :boxingguy :220v: :cry:

[Essex29]

http://www2.***boat.com/image_center...26gg_basic.bmp
Orange = RCA's from Headunit into amps
Red = all power cables
Black = all grounds
Blue = remote turnon from headunit to amps via a relay
All speakers are parallel. I don't know what subs or sub amp you have, so don't follow that diagram. I madeit to indicate the sub amp.
The 2 4ch amps are in 2channel input 4ch output mode.
Also, depending on how you run your rca's, you could put a low level attenuator inline so you can adjust your bow 6x9's and underhatch speakers independently from just the headunit
Also remember that the main power and ground runs need to be mimicked. meaning same gauge wires...
Kinda gives you a visual...
That is frickin AWESOME
I totally understand it now!!!!!Thanks Roz

[Essex29]

Well everything went pretty smooth!!!
All I did over the weekend was cut and mounted the speakers...pretty stressful cutting your boat up...
I'll post some pics later on today.
Thanks for everyones help!