Reply With QuoteI would run more than 6-7 lbs of block pressure. Maybe you had a steam pocket and cracked a head?????
This is formerly HotHallet speaking. I have not been able to get anyone to e-mail me my password as I forgot it so I decided to forgo my post count and start all over again. Anyway I have questions. My boat sat for about two months at my folks place through the rainy weather with the cover on it and last time out after changing the oil she milked up. All last season I did not have a problem with water in the oil and all of the sudden here we go. I pulled my bassett t apart and the spring is fine and everything looks cool. I ran my water pressure regulator at the same pressure all last summer and no problem. I am wondering if I have an excess amount of condensation in the oil. I changed the oil two weekends ago and put in some Napa brand 20W50 just to cycle it through and am going to head to Elsinore this weekend to run it. I have a McMaster Carr water press. regulator coming off the inlet set at 40 on the dial-(equaling to 6-7 lbs. of block pressure at WOT). The inlet valve is wide open and so is the dump. The last time I ran the boat was at Havasu three weeks ago and the water was so cold she did not even budge on ther temp gauge-no heat to steam out any moisture. Need some advice!
I would run more than 6-7 lbs of block pressure. Maybe you had a steam pocket and cracked a head?????
How much milk are you talking about? A little mud around the oil fill hole or major blended shake in the crankcase?
I've noticed that sometimes cold water boating will make a little condensation in the crankcase. But I'm talking about a little swirl in the oil and a little mud at the filler, not the big shake. If you have the big shake, I'd rule out the cold water and start leak testing the cooling system.
check the intake bolts to make sure they are torqued properly. I had a similar problem a couple of years ago and found the bolts to be loose on the left side.
travis as we had talked aobut have you pulled the oil and looked at it all ? it would be my guess that you have water in the oil form all the rain and when you ran at havasu you never burned it all out. . so the next step would be to use the oil boy and pull all the oil out. then see what the oil looks like.
at that point i would say that we or you might be able to give a better answer.
as for the pressure regulator that is the same place i had mine set and the same place chris had his set at and chris was seeing like 14 at wot but that could be due to more HP. at any rate pull the oil and check your intake bolts like Cas said and keep us updated
Actually Hacker that's 19psi at WOT which keeps my engine temp right at 110* which is where it needs to be for my motor to survive with my compression on pump gas; but that isn't really relevant to this post.
A couple things I want to point out. Witht the regulator that myself, Tyson, Randy, and a slew of others run on their boats, the regulator reduces flow as it reduces pressure. For that reason you may find that you will have less PSI in your system than what the regulator reads on the dial. The cooling system pressure should be read with a gauge into the block which Travis has. Further more, I can tell you he has more than adequate flow by the amount of water comming out the bypass/dump line for his headers.
As far as someone's claim of a cracked head, I have a few problems with this statement. First, the boat runs at something like 120*So the potential for steaming the engine is pretty slim. I'm sure you could argue that because there isn't 2 atomospheres of pressure in the cooling system, it's more prone to steam, but it would have to get hot enough to do so in the first place. Second, there are no indicators that the boat is down on power. A craked head would probably also be losing compression in the cylinders near the crack. Third, Fords are notorious for leaking around the intake gaskets. I can name off a couple of people who have swamped crank cases with water via this method. The bottom line, he doesn't have low block pressure because his head is cracked; but rather the same reason most people that run bassets have no block pressure; they bypass all their water out a dump line which alieviates pressure.
Travis,
Bro, you've got my panties in a wad because you are the biggest worry wart I knowOne thing at a time, did you disconnect the T valve from the headers like I asked you; to see if you could contaminate your clean oil by running water through your cooling system to see if you had a problem? A cracked head, poor intake gasket seal, or head gasket leak would show up this way... No need to tow to Elsinore and run the boat if it by some longshot has some actual damage. Make sure the lines feeding your headers are disconnected and left in the bilge so you can't pump water into the motor through the headers, and just run the effer on the hose. Use your block pressure gauge to tell you if you're over pressurinzing things and just let that water run for a while. Shut off the water, and check your oil... If your oil is clean, you can rule out the intake gasket, a cracked head, or a head gasket problem. Then it was either condensation, or those freaking POS, god damned worthless pile of shit bassett T'valves that have been plauging you since the motor went back into the boat. Just cause the spring isn't broken, or the ball didn't slip through, doesn't always mean they are working correctly.
You've got tons of people that offer to help ya with this stuff. But ya gotta follow through on the testing. It bums me out when myself, my brother and god knows who else give you courses of action to take, then rather than following through and checking those avenues, you post up here like a better answer is going to pop up. It's cool to have a good consensus of what the problem may be, but at some point you need to test this stuff. I hope I didn't come off like a whiney bitch, but at some point, you actually just need to dig in and see what's up.
Good Luck,
Chris
As far as someone's claim of a cracked head, I have a few problems with this statement. First, the boat runs at something like 120*So the potential for steaming the engine is pretty slim. I'm sure you could argue that because there isn't 2 atomospheres of pressure in the cooling system, it's more prone to steam, but it would have to get hot enough to do so in the first place. Second, there are no indicators that the boat is down on power. A craked head would probably also be losing compression in the cylinders near the crack. Third, Fords are notorious for leaking around the intake gaskets. I can name off a couple of people who have swamped crank cases with water via this method. The bottom line, he doesn't have low block pressure because his head is cracked; but rather the same reason most people that run bassets have no block pressure; they bypass all their water out a dump line which alieviates pressure.
**** me Chris I was just throwing out Ideas.
**** me Chris I was just throwing out Ideas.
No worries Mike.
Chris
changed oil two weekends ago. Just put in some cheap 20w50 and a new filter to cycle it through. Old oil when pulled out was a light brown not cream color. Planned to run it on the trailer this weekend or go to elsinore. Just want to figure things out before summer gets cranking so I can roost around with no worries.
so it was clean of oil?
was it clearish or were you not able to see through it?
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