Guys I need to change the oil on my 460 it appears to have a little water in it. Helps to put the drain plug in before putting inot the water! Anyhow I hate paying the big bucks for oil changes, so I need advice on home use oil changing systems.
When my engine was out of the boat I had a hose kit attached to the oil pan drain hole so I can now use the hose to drain the oil to outside the boat. It takes a small drill pump (suction tube in hose) to do this. I don't know if you could install this hose with your engine in the boat the next time you pull your drain plug.
You might be able to get most of the oil out by putting the suction tube down your dip stick tube and sucking it out.
Get yourself one of the Fumoto drain valves (from Jegs or Summit), which is a fitting that plugs into the drain plug hole, and has a small ball valve integrally attached. When you want to drain the oil, hook up a hose to the fitting, open the valve, and then either wait for nature to take it's course (usually several hours), or pump the oil out the bottom.
If you do it with cold oil, it will take much longer. My suggestion is to just pull your existing plug, and work quickly to get the Fumoto valve in place. Yes, you will lose some oil into the bilge, but the improved oil changes will be worth cleaning up the mess one time.
SteveM.
Timer & Jetmugg
Thanks for the advice, sounds like I should consider paying the big bucks this time. When I pull the motor this fall I will definately update the engine oil drain plug setup as you guys suggest.
Take a pump that is used for lower units on outboards (about $3-$4 at Walmart), and remove the short 6" that the the oil is sucked up thru and buy a longer one (same size) and re-attach it. Stick it down the dipstick tube and pump out you old oil.
Tahiti,there are all kinds of drain kits available like the other guys mentioned,but you could drain your oil without removing anything off the engine,until you have time in the winter to install a proper one.First of ,there's a kit that consists of a brass T that you screw in the block where your oil pressure sender goes,than you put the sender on top of this T.The T has a high pressure hose with a ballcheck at the end.You run the engine [at operating temperature]and slowly open the valve at the end of this hose,you just keep an eye on the volume of the oil that came out[ depends on your oil pan size].As soon as the oil start to sputter you're done,and close the valve off,shutting the engine off.The oil pressure is still maintained at this point.I know a lot of guys will advise against this system,but if it's properly done it won't hurt your engine.I would recommend the pan installed kit for later!There's another way to suck the oil out,get a steel brakeline about 2 feet long [it will reach the bottom of the 460 oilpan],put a clear plastic hose at the end and use a cheap drillpump[from a speedshop]and scavenge the oil that way.I have a vacuum pump that a friend got me from the hospital he worked it, and it works well with the brakeline setup,I use this in indoor only since requires 110v to run.If you got so much water in your engine ,I would advise you to change it twice in the row between two runs to make sure all the moisture is out.
My rig does not have the room for the fumoto. I wish it did. I used to pull my motor every oil change, got it down to 20 minutes.
I bought the TopSider available from West Marine or Northern Hydraulic. I pull my distributor and run the hose down. I also use it for my axle pumpkins, trannys, power steering, lawn mower, ect.
rog
Seaslut,
I have seen those Bigboy TopSider Extraction Pumps and have a hard time believing they really work. Can that pump pull oil through the dipstick tube? Does it appear to remove all of the oil? Is it a pain in the as... to get the vacumm started? I have heard those manual pumps take several tries to get a strong enough vacumm to do the job.
Spectras Only,
My wife would give me hell till the day I die if I toasted the motor draining the oil with it running. Im better off bending over to the local marine dealer here.
Ya dude, lot's of places sell a tube/pump system that goes down the dipstick tube and sucks the oil out. You should be able to get most of the water out with one change and a good run but I'd do two oil swaps to be safe. Good luck!!
My dipstick tube has a crimp in it to orient the blade so I can't get it in. I go in through my distributor hole. I bought it for the boat but wound up using it on everything from the harley to the lawn mower.
Once you get the tube in the liquid you wish to remove, you pump this thing 40 time and walk away. Come back five minutes later your pan is empty and the topsider is full.
It really is that easy.
Remember the first step to performance is clean oil and its much better to change your oil often, than to rebuild your motor twice.
[This message has been edited by SeaSlut (edited June 25, 2001).]
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