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Thread: How do I wire a manual choke?

  1. #1
    Hollis
    my electric choke opens to fast on my Barry Grant 750, so how would I wire the + and - to the pull switch at the helm...?

  2. #2
    Jetmugg
    If you really want to switch your electric choke, just put a switch in the 12V supply line.
    Why do you say that it opens too fast? Is it very cold where you boat?
    SteveM.

  3. #3
    berk
    i want to switch mine becasue you are supposed to run blower 5 min before starting and thats enough time to fully blow your choke open. i would guess you just ground it and switch the hotwire to it from the dash.

  4. #4
    malcolm
    Just run a different switch to your blower.

  5. #5
    MudPumper
    How about you just remove your choke. I've never had a choke and never needed a choke to start the boat.

  6. #6
    malcolm
    Must be pretty cold in Maine most of the time. You guys must have a short season like we do over here in WA. I did remove my choke guts, it's only cold blooded for around 15 seconds anyway.

  7. #7
    Hollis
    ya, It is cool here in Maine most of the time...When I first bought the Barry Grant I took the guts out too for better induction. But I found I had to carry a dish detergent bottle with fuel in it to keep priming the carb until it stayed running. It was embarracing when I had company. Am I doing something wrong..?

  8. #8
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,920
    ya, It is cool here in Maine most of the time...When I first bought the Barry Grant I took the guts out too for better induction. But I found I had to carry a dish detergent bottle with fuel in it to keep priming the carb until it stayed running. It was embarracing when I had company. Am I doing something wrong..?
    Something doesn't sound right. I've run a pretty good array of carbs on my boat and have never found the need for a choke. Granted I'm in Arizona and it's usually hot, but I run all winter and it's been down in the 40's in January, February, and it always started fine.
    When my motor's cold the starting ritual includes giving the accelerator pumps two shots each (two carbs) then hit the key.
    IMO it shouldn't be that hard to start.
    You might want to take a close look at your carb. Make sure the accelerator pump is working properly.

  9. #9
    Hollis
    Well let me ask you this Squirtcha, How many rotations of the idle screws..? Primary and seconds.

  10. #10
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    2,920
    The standard starting position would be 1 1/2 turns out.
    With the motor off, begin by turning each of the idle mixture screws in until they seat, being careful to not tighten them too much or it'll mess up the ends of them. Turn each one the 1 1/2 turns out and start the motor. Then to fine tune them, turn each one in (clockwise and individually) until the motor rpm drops noticeably. Then slowly back the screw out until the motor reaches a maximum rpm. Then move on to the next one and do the same thing. They should all end up being approximately the same number of turns when you're done.
    If for some reason you don't notice a drop in engine rpm as you're turning that idle mixture screw in, it could indicate that there's a problem with that particular idle circuit, and you may have to investigate that.
    You will probably have to reset your main idle to the desired rpm after doing this.

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