Question: I have a marine fuel pump on my Ford 460. The hose runs up the block, across the manifold between the carb and valve cover, and back down the back side of the block into the bilge by the pump. Boatcop metioned it should connect to the carb. There is nowhere for it to connect. Am I missing something?
That's definately not where it should be going. Normally there's a small tube on most flame arresters that the small tube slides onto, thus routing any fuel leakage directly back into the carburetor. Now if you're not running a flame arrester (problem in itself), you need to rig that hose up some way to dump into the carb. The bilge is the worst place it could be going.
79Hawaiian:
Question: I have a marine fuel pump on my Ford 460. The hose runs up the block, across the manifold between the carb and valve cover, and back down the back side of the block into the bilge by the pump. Boatcop metioned it should connect to the carb. There is nowhere for it to connect. Am I missing something?You will have to "T" that line into a hose that comes off the baseplate, otherwise add one to the existing baseplate if it has been tapped/plugged.
-Ty
Hotcrusader76:
The only true "safety features" on a Marine carb that I have researched are three things:
1.J-tubes for fuel venting
2.Throttle shafts that won't leak outside the carb body
3. Anti-roll over squirters
Other than that, the fuel metering is a little richer on the bottom end, off-road style spring loaded needle and seats, and the certain Marine carbs are corrosion protected.
All of these features can be a no cost up-grade when overhauling an automotive Holley carburetor.
-TyAnd the fuel level is below any gasket therefore cannot leak externally. An automotive carb does not have this feature therefore cannot be altered to marine specs.
79Hawaiian:
Question: I have a marine fuel pump on my Ford 460. The hose runs up the block, across the manifold between the carb and valve cover, and back down the back side of the block into the bilge by the pump. Boatcop metioned it should connect to the carb. There is nowhere for it to connect. Am I missing something?79-I have the same problem with my carb...no place to put that failure line from the fuel pump. I went to the local auto parts store and got a brass fitting, drilled a hole in the top of my flame arrestor and now have my failure line attached to that. It cost me all of about $2 and about 20 min. of my time. Hope that helps ya.
Wow! This took off... To bad you don't get modded up for starting a good topic. :-) A few things...
I haven't seen "Marine Type" or "Coast Guard Approved" carburators, however there are standards which must be followed on carburators used in Marine Applications. Those standards from the Code of Federal Regulations are: (33 CFR) The Costies say that any Carb labeled "Marine" must conform to current standards. While there is no enforcement, there is liability to the company... Major "Marine" carbs will pass.
What this means is that in many areas, the owner can do anything they want to their boat's engine, (with the exception of back-fire flame protection). If Joe Back-Yard-Mechanic wants to replace that $300 Marine starter with a $19.95 Pep-Boys rebuild, no law prevents him from doing it, or running it. The first is "gross negligence." If the Costies feel like it, they can gound you for operating an unsafe vessel. If they feel real mean, they will note your insurance, and later call them and tell them about your unsafe part. This usually results in canceld coverage until it is fixed. (Seen it happen, but the costies have to really hate you)
And the fuel level is below any gasket therefore cannot leak externally. An automotive carb does not have this feature therefore cannot be altered to marine specs Depends on the carb. The only difference between Carter Marine and Auto is the lid. I have put a Marine lid on an Auto body many times...
In addition... Liability includes the people on the boat, the people near the boat, other boats and docs wich catch fire, polution, removal of the damaged boat(s)... It can be well over the value of your boat, and insurance may deny the whole thing.
Also, I can't say enough good things about gas fume detectors and CO detectors.
I think it is about time that these facts are made clear.
I have read (to my concern) too many replies that minimize the differences between marine and non-marine carbs.
Its about time people understand that there is more to this topic than J-tubes and slabbed throttle shafts.
This is about consequences. Consequences of the accidents that have happened (injury, loss of life and property) and the actions taken to prevent them in the future.
This is one reason why we have regulatory bodies with oversight in industry, such as FAR/JAR regs, ASME B&PV codes, etc. I don't think any of use would want to be in a boiler explosion because someone took the "cheap" way out of a pressure vessel design. Or why there are stringent requirements for fire protection in commercial, regional, or biz aircraft.
So why take shortcuts on a boat? To save money?
Its only your life, maybe your best buddy, your wife or your childs. Ask yourself if these are worth the couple of dollars saved for the risk that results.
By the way, USCG certified Holleys have the same front/rear split bowl as non-marine carbs, so it is incorrect that the fuel level is below gasket sealing surfaces.
[ August 15, 2002, 12:46 PM: Message edited by: gstark ]
What about us guys with exposed engines? I have not engine compartment or cover. I thought I didn't have to use the marine goodies (other than arresters in scoops) but I could be wrong.
Boat Cop, is my thinking correct??
gstark:
I think it is about time that these facts are made clear.
I have read (to my concern) too many replies that minimize the differences between marine and non-marine carbs.
Its about time people understand that there is more to this topic than J-tubes and slabbed throttle shafts.
This is about consequences. Consequences of the accidents that have happened (injury, loss of life and property) and the actions taken to prevent them in the future.
This is one reason why we have regulatory bodies with oversight in industry, such as FAR/JAR regs, ASME B&PV codes, etc. I don't think any of use would want to be in a boiler explosion because someone took the "cheap" way out of a pressure vessel design. Or why there are stringent requirements for fire protection in commercial, regional, or biz aircraft.
So why take shortcuts on a boat? To save money?
Its only your life, maybe your best buddy, your wife or your childs. Ask yourself if these are worth the couple of dollars saved for the risk that results.
By the way, USCG certified Holleys have the same front/rear split bowl as non-marine carbs, so it is incorrect that the fuel level is below gasket sealing surfaces.I concurr with the fuel level gasket theory....Yes your right about the loss of life issue and safety factor, but those of us running open bay engine set-ups and we run the boat for about 15 minutes at a time tops....there is no reason to spend the extra dollar on the Marine carb. Now and off-shore boat running over heavy chop with an "enclosed" set-up..By all means do your insurance company a favor and buy Marine versions.
-Ty
There's no distinction for enclosed or open engine compartments. The regs state "Marine Use" only.
There are references for "Open" construction and "Closed" construction. Any boat with an inboard engine is "closed" construction.
An "open" construction boat is one with no engine or an outboard engine, no fixed tanks, and no spaces capable of entrapping fuel vapors.
The "open" and "closed" designations are for applying fire extinguisher and ventilation requirements only.
The regs also apply the standards to boats constructed after a certain date, usually the date the specific regulation went into effect.
An early 60's inboard may be "legally" exempt from those requirements, since they weren't in effect at the time of construction, but from a safety standpoint, all those boats should be retrofitted with properly shielded marine type components.
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