Reply With QuoteDon't know what kind of tests they've done. They don't tell us anything except that they've done tests and can't figure out what problem is. This is getting frustrating!
I had a similar knocking noise. They thought it was a valve lifter. I wish. It was a melted #5 piston. Did they do a leak down test?
Don't know what kind of tests they've done. They don't tell us anything except that they've done tests and can't figure out what problem is. This is getting frustrating!
I've had a similar experience where I had a lifter stuck.
Originally posted by Seth Livzz:
Detonation makes some horrendous sounds.
and horrendous damage, too!!!!! Fried a new motor with only 34 hours. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/frown.gif
kevnmcd
Oh, no! Can you believe that mechanic still hasn't figured it out! They've had it now for four weeks. I have relayed all the input that I've received from everyone here. This is ridiculous!
Originally posted by kevnmcd:
and horrendous damage, too!!!!! Fried a new motor with only 34 hours. http://free.***boat.net/ubb/frown.gif
kevnmcd
Yeah, no kidding. Unless you have a motor that is practically made to detonate (4 bolt mains, forged steel crank, nice rods, head studs etc.) you need to get off it as soon as you hear it rattle. Don't live with detonation; fix what's causing it. In ANY motor that detonates, something's eventually going to break. Even in the most "built" motors, you'll at least float a gasket.
Originally posted by Miss Fortune:
Oh, no! Can you believe that mechanic still hasn't figured it out! They've had it now for four weeks. I have relayed all the input that I've received from everyone here. This is ridiculous!
Sh@#$y mechanics are what turned me into a mechanic; it was necessity. If I were you, I would bring it home and pull the valve covers off. Pull the plugs and have someone crank the motor over. Check the valves and make sure everything is moving up and down smoothly and that nothing's stuck. If so, pop the covers back on and then do a compression check. Check all the wires, cap, rotor and REPLACE the plugs again!
Of course, if this thing's new, you might want to check if messing with it yourself will void the warrantee. If so, get a new mechanic who will honor the warrantee.
Originally posted by Miss Fortune:
Oh, no! Can you believe that mechanic still hasn't figured it out! They've had it now for four weeks. I have relayed all the input that I've received from everyone here. This is ridiculous!
with a mirror to look down the carb as you crack throttle verify the accelerator pump is
spuirting then check the ignition advance curve prefferrerably under load with a digital timing light. she purrs like a kitten
at idle, then stumbles, cuts out, misfires, no pulling power, sluggish rmps - not enough advance or to much! open the distribtor and check for broken springs on the mechanical flyweights or debris holding the weights back i.e. distributor cap terminal, rotor cantact
I have statically done this & seen some advance (garden hose water and high rpm don't
go, be careful) only to get to the lake and not have power to jump to plane, and found the flyweights simply rusted up
good luck
I think that's what our mechanic said he was doing next.
It definately could be something as simple as fouled plugs. Even if you changed them once already. Take them out again and visually inspect them to see if they all look similar. Good indication of the plug firing correctly is a light toasty tanish color on the plug. If you see signs of oil or debris or anything else between the gaps of the plug or inside the plug, then change plugs again. You'd be surprised what a little too much oil or contaminants in the engine can do to the plugs. If you hear any type of spark sound ever coming from your engine , it's the lovely sound of your spark plug grounding out thus causing the engine to miss and definately would make a terrible knocking sound. Sure it could be a hundred other things but I always check first the obvious things and then I check all the things that I have changed or messed with recently. Even a slight oily deposit or foreign obstruction even if it's hardly visible on the tip of the plug, could easily cause the plug to ground itself out. Also make sure you gap the plugs to factory specs and if all else fails, try gapping them just a tad below factory specs. This will make it easier for the spark to jump the gap and might help the problem. Oh and unless you have aluminum heads, don't use that anti-seize stuff. Once got some in the engine and it took weeks to clean it all out and like 3 oil changes.
Any how Good Luck http://free.***boat.net/ubb/biggrin.gif
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