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Thread: 557 scat

  1. #21
    Squirtin Thunder
    LakesOnly,,,what cam do you recommend? Not necessarily size but type. Hydraulic, solid roller?
    Like Steelcomp has said before it all depends how much money you want to spend. As he stated in the other thread he seems to feel that the solid roller will RPM quicker, than the hyd roller, if I am on the same page with him.
    I would get the flow #s on the heads and talk with Chris Strabb about the pros and cons of each design.

  2. #22
    HOSS
    money? hell im runnin on fema....hahahahahah,,, ust kiddin,,but if im a gonna do it,,, do it once/

  3. #23
    JAY4SPEED
    Hoss
    On the alum head deal, I know Canfield has a coating applied as an option when there is salt water involved. Even though Canfield does not make BBF heads I am sure John Fenton "owner" would help you out on getting a set coated.
    I'm also concerned about my new AFR heads running in brackish water as I live in the same area as Hoss. After reading this post, it prompted me to email my salesperson at Airflow Reasearch to ask if there was a way to coat the cooling passages for marine appications. He replied that the process has to be done prior to some of the finish machining so it cannot be performed on completed heads. He did suggest to flush after every trip and to try to flush some antifreeze with Water Wetter to help coat the cooling passages after a trip out to prevent corrosion. I'm not sure on how I would go about doing that, I just wanted to throw that out there for anyone else who may benefit from his info.
    Sorry Hoss, didn't mean to hijack.......carry on
    Jay

  4. #24
    Taylorman
    Put some anti freeze in a 5 gal bucket and rig up a bildge pump to pump it into the engine like the racers use to warm up their engine before a race.

  5. #25
    HOSS
    hE`S FULL OF IT. hE COULD ONLY MEAN GREEN ANTI-FREEZE AS THAT CONTAINS SILICONE. tHE COATING WOULD BE SO MINIMAL AS TO NOT WORTH THE EFFORT.
    Sorry for the caps,,,14 month old here.

  6. #26
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    883
    I'm also concerned about my new AFR heads running in brackish water as I live in the same area as Hoss. After reading this post, it prompted me to email my salesperson at Airflow Reasearch to ask if there was a way to coat the cooling passages for marine appications. He replied that the process has to be done prior to some of the finish machining so it cannot be performed on completed heads. He did suggest to flush after every trip and to try to flush some antifreeze with Water Wetter to help coat the cooling passages after a trip out to prevent corrosion. I'm not sure on how I would go about doing that, I just wanted to throw that out there for anyone else who may benefit from his info.
    Sorry Hoss, didn't mean to hijack.......carry on
    Jay
    There is a way to cheat and extend life. We use what we call Ceramic Seal to stop leaks in cylinder heads. The stuff is egg white consistancy and can be used to coat the water jackets for helps against corrosion. Problem is the heads need to be off and this has to be done with pressure of 15psi and the the heads need to sit 24 hours. Also brush it around the water transfer port on the head.
    AFR is not feeding you a line either. The seat and guides cannot be in the head. Hard anodizing requires just the aluminum only.
    Hoss if money isn't a problem and you can get a set of thunders you won't be sorry. In all the years I have dealt with cylinder head companies I can say from a manufacturing standpoint that AT's stuff is the nicest mfg head there is. I agree with the above post if you can get a set with the BBC exhaust pattern you will be better off in the long run. A single will work for your CID but your at a point in CID that a tunnel ram and 2 carbs will make a nice power difference. Over a single you are probly looking at 75HP difference.

  7. #27
    HOSS
    Thanks but what cam should I be looking at?

  8. #28
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    883
    Thanks but what cam should I be looking at?
    Cam is the 2nd to last part you buy, pushrods being last. Get your heads selected and finalize a compression ratio along with a max rpm level then the camshaft can be looked at.

  9. #29

  10. #30
    HOSS
    Looking for the "stop now" deal on blue thunders.

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