while your at it , You ought to look at glassing in some wood on the inside and run your bolts up threw that - I think you may Pick up .00000000010 mph by eliminating the dragfill in the holes and wallla - your done
while your at it , You ought to look at glassing in some wood on the inside and run your bolts up threw that - I think you may Pick up .00000000010 mph by eliminating the drag
Did I ever mention that you are LAME lucky????
It can be done, trust me.
http://www.***boat.com/image_center/.../2855ouch2.JPG
Brian thats yuuukkkyyyyyyyyyyyyyy.
If you don't want to roll your boat over to fix it, give it a coating of Laminating Resin, after a thorough sanding. The Laminating Resin will stay tacky for your application of roving and mat. Use Laminating resin for your layering, and use finish resin with a couple for your finish, scuff, gelcoat, and paint. Take your time, feather your edges, don't mix your batches too hot, and you'll be fine. You'll be itchy though! I've done tons of heavy 'glass work, it is very workable.
There was a thread about 6 months ago in which a newbie asked what would be a good, solid, first jet boat for the family. In my reply I repeated a term used by a known boat builder, "potato-chip" hull. Many of you climbed all over me for using that term when all I was doing was trying to give a little asked for advice from the standpoint of someone who has been HOT boating for over 30 years. Since I didn't get any apologies from those who belittled me for my re-use of that term, I won't offer any either. Dan, this is in no way personal, too bad that your boat had to be the example. To those of you that directed me to this thread, you were right, it was interesting. TIMM
Please define the tremotatoe-chip" hull
Hey dan if you have any issues please let me know. We can go to bergerons and talk to "bobby" . He is the glassmaster.I personally watched him fix a superstock hull that had about 8 feet ripped off. When he was done in looked better than new. The funny thing is that the same boat was winning the ss finals last year untill he blew up the motor. I think it was dave bryants but not positive. Let me know if you need anything brotha
I think Dan will do fine by himself, he has proven to quite a few people that he can and will probably want to do all of his work himself, if he wants some direction, im sure this is just the place he will start with the questions!
As for the lam resin, i dont think he will have to go that route only because there is not that much fill to apply,... i figure he could just run down to the local Home Depot and grab some evercoat (thick enough) fiberglass resin and start there,...Captain, in no way am i trying to undermind your input here, but i am not too sure where Dan is located, so a supplier might be tough to find!
BTW Dan, if you need any Laminating wheels (used for tight laminating bond,removes air bubbles, excess resin,etc...!)drop me a dime and i'll send one out to ya.
Todd
B's and 396; Many people on this board climbed in every orifice I had when I referred to the older, inexpensive hulls as Potato-chip hulls, this term was NOT coined by me. These are known in the industry as early boats, made by mostly now defunct companys, made to enter into the marketplace and get established as a builder. Less weight=more speed and less materials=more profits. As stated by a major manufacturer; "who knew these boats would still be around after 30 years, we didn't expect them to last 10 years". Thats not what they were "designed" for. As stated by Dan:this area looks to be only about 1/4" thick. Many boats that we have worked on are 1/2" or more in that area, including my step-kid's Hawaiian. With an ultrasonic thickness tester,(we have one), its easy to tell what you have before you get into trouble. Potato-chip=light layup, whether built for racing, or economy when building. TIMM
I'd kinda like to know what boats those in the industry today consider to be 'early boats' or 'potato-chip hulls'. My friend runs one of the busiest glass repair shops in so cal and does repairs for most of the players in todays boat building biz and I'm not the least bit impressed by what's being built today compared to what we did back in the 60s, 70s, 80s and 90s. (unless you're crawling around a new Schiada) In fact you'd be hard pressed to find a better lay-up today when compared to what Spectra, Rogers, Howard, Hondo and so on, were doing 25 years ago.
I am, on the other hand, impressed by the materials being used today, very cool.
A 1/4 - 3/8 inch of glass in the area of damage to squirts boat, the outer lifting strake to the chine, is normal for almost any 18 foot boat built in the 70's. I built Hawaiians and I can guarantee you that they weren't 1/2 thick in that same area. Squirts lay up does look to be on the thin side though, a skin of 3oz, a layer of roving and another layer of mat would barley be 1/4 inch.
By the way, using a Hawaiian for an example of almost any kind is not the smartest thing to do.
I'd also steer clear of any builder who said "who knew these boats would still be around after 30 years, we didn't expect them to last 10 years". Thats not what they were "designed" for.
That's one of the stupidest things I've ever read on this board. Even Hawaiian boats, who was the first to finance boats for 15 years, had more vision than that.
The only thing the boats weren't designd for back in the day is the amazing amount of horsepower you lucky bastards have avalable to you now.
No offense taken. I should have paid more attention. The damage really isn't bad. I had to repair my Hondo after being hit by another boat, and that's how it worked, but the damage was horrible. And to old Rigger, I totally agree, after getting "intimately involved" with every inch of that Hondo, I am totally impressed with the quality of the build, even if they weren't expected to survive that long. Mines a '76 full stringer, Tee deck. I'll post pic's.
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