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Thread: someone is getting some new shoes

  1. #41
    Senior Member
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    Feb 2009
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    Oldsquirt, I probably should have used a ball end mill to fillet the back cut, but at that time I just figured I'd use the die grinder. Gonna do the same for the opposite side of the shoe. Front edge is square to start w/ at this time (no curve). Those guys up north seem to be doing just fine w/ some stuff that down here is not the norm. This will also close off the intake a little. I can always make adjustments (put the curve back in or ?) to it later. :boxed:
    The reason I was wondering is I'm looking at making a change the opposite of what you are doing. I want a thinner shoe(going from 1/2" to 3/8"). While I could simply mill mine down to the required thickness, I also want the entry ramp to more closely match the entry of the intake, which means moving it back about 3/16"-1/4". This means a lot of extra work that, to me, justifies just making a new shoe. If only we knew someone who could do that very time consuming part of the process with a CAD/CAM program and a CNC machine......

  2. #42
    MikeF
    The reason I was wondering is I'm looking at making a change the opposite of what you are doing. I want a thinner shoe(going from 1/2" to 3/8"). While I could simply mill mine down to the required thickness, I also want the entry ramp to more closely match the entry of the intake, which means moving it back about 3/16"-1/4". This means a lot of extra work that, to me, justifies just making a new shoe. If only we knew someone who could do that very time consuming part of the process with a CAD/CAM program and a CNC machine......
    I kinda did something like that already. I made a rideplate that also incorporated the shoe into it. It measured .200 thick and no cutback. That put the biting edge at nearly the same position as the cutback shoe.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...eplateshoe.jpg
    W/ my normal setup, the boat gets on plane, accellerates, porpoises a little and then flattens out(no porpoise) to top speed.
    When I tryed the one piece shoe/rideplate, everything "early" was the same but it would not stop porpoising = N.G.! That ended that experiment. :boxed:
    I am by no means discouraging you to try this, only this is what happened to me w/ my hull.

  3. #43
    Senior Member
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    I'd think that the one-piece deal would making plate angle adjustment rather difficult. When I got my boat, the intake had been machined for a shoe/rideplate combo but didn't include them. Previous owner had tried to make a one-piece setup like that but it was a mess. Decided to start fresh and gambled with the 1/2" with 4* backcut as a start.
    Turns out there are a couple guys running with the CDBA that have the same hull as mine(Eliminator Sprint). The faster of the two has a 5/16" shoe and the other guy has stock intake. Since I've already tried shimming the shoe down---big mistake!--- I figure I'd try going thinner.

  4. #44
    wsuwrhr
    Bring it on over, the clock starts.
    Tell me what you want to change, and we'll get making it lighter no problem.
    Brian
    The reason I was wondering is I'm looking at making a change the opposite of what you are doing. I want a thinner shoe(going from 1/2" to 3/8"). While I could simply mill mine down to the required thickness, I also want the entry ramp to more closely match the entry of the intake, which means moving it back about 3/16"-1/4". This means a lot of extra work that, to me, justifies just making a new shoe. If only we knew someone who could do that very time consuming part of the process with a CAD/CAM program and a CNC machine......

  5. #45
    Duane HTP
    For those of you who don't already know, we produce a blank shoe that is pretty user friendly. You can go deeper, shallower, taper cut it, or back cut it.
    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/im..._Shoe_0002.jpg
    http://www.hi-techperformance.com/Parts.HTM

  6. #46
    wsuwrhr
    Ah shit, here comes Rex.
    Mopar is hungry for some spam too.
    Brian
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...63Dscf0020.jpg

  7. #47
    superdave013
    Mikef, You ruined it man. I had ol CS biting on the hook and before I could set it you spilled the beans. dang
    wuwusoureouwrwwerew, aka "skinny", Mike F did that all his bad self. I did set the depth stop above the table though. Not that I don't trust Mike but well.... you know.

  8. #48
    wsuwrhr
    wuwusoureouwrwwerew, aka "skinny", Mike F did that all his bad self. I did set the depth stop above the table though. Not that I don't trust Mike but well.... you know.
    Pussy.
    2 flute endmills cut cast iron too.
    "Don't ask me how I know."
    Brian

  9. #49
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Posts
    2,626
    Bring it on over, the clock starts.
    Tell me what you want to change, and we'll get making it lighter no problem.
    Brian
    I see you caught my "hint"
    The only problem with "bringing it on over" is that I'm about 450 miles north of you.

  10. #50
    wsuwrhr
    When you get your shoe figured out, up the cylinder pressure with this.
    http://www.***boat.com/image_center/...0/63newnos.jpg

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