My sister has been surfing for years and I always tried to support her surfing love. Back in the day her and her hubby didn't have the means to puchase a quality surf board. On Christmas about three or four years ago I Called G & S out in Cali and had them shape a custom long board with some personal art work dedication done in her name. It turned out really nice. She has been putting it to work ever since. nowadays she has several boards. She invited me out to the East Coast today.
Well I wouldn't call myself a surf king but I caught many waves and probably enjoyed this day more than any. My first day on a surf board although many on a surf boat. Just call me Mr. goofy foot. :rollside: Today we were out for hours. It was overcast and rained most of the time. I didn't notice the rain until we were walking to the car.
I call on my Coast guard days doing search and rescue out in Washington state and say that the water was warm... Actually not bad. My nipples feel like they are ripped off, my belly is red and in pain, my chest hair is full of board wax, I was zapped by many jelly fish, I took a long board dead center rocker to the base of my skull. Smashed the glass on the board. My eyes are blood shot red and my sinuses are begging for mercy. Overall It was dam near the best day of my life.
We had the cameras video and still but we were both out there the whole time and it's funny but I didn't feel bad about ignoring the record devices... Great day...
I have a bloody nose right now, welts from the Jfish, my hed is gashed and it feels good? :coffeycup
I have a new...
Wow....sounds like fun.....except for the "ripped off" nipples and jelly fish and cold water and rain and overcast and chest hair full of board wax and the blood shot eyes and the sinuses..... :idea:
Maybe you should come out West to surf......It was 90 degrees at Trestles today....
http://www.surfrider.org/savetrestle...s/trestles.jpg
:rollside:
I don't know about the trestles but i remember being in a '61 Dodge Seneca one day and arriving at the Mavricks... Sounds like fun. Count this sucker in.
My sis has all of the so called surf lingo and I am stuck in the CG surf lingo. It was no more than 3-4 on the inside and there was loads of convergence and very short sets. Current was a steady 2-3-kts south and no true rip current. Just long east coast sand. I'm not complaining though WOW!
My sister has been surfing for years and I always tried to support her surfing love. Back in the day her and her hubby didn't have the means to puchase a quality surf board. On Christmas about three or four years ago I Called G & S out in Cali and had them shape a custom long board with some personal art work dedication done in her name. It turned out really nice. She has been putting it to work ever since. nowadays she has several boards. She invited me out to the East Coast today.
Well I wouldn't call myself a surf king but I caught many waves and probably enjoyed this day more than any. My first day on a surf board although many on a surf boat. Just call me Mr. goofy foot. :rollside: Today we were out for hours. It was overcast and rained most of the time. I didn't notice the rain until we were walking to the car.
I call on my Coast guard days doing search and rescue out in Washington state and say that the water was warm... Actually not bad. My nipples feel like they are ripped off, my belly is red and in pain, my chest hair is full of board wax, I was zapped by many jelly fish, I took a long board dead center rocker to the base of my skull. Smashed the glass on the board. My eyes are blood shot red and my sinuses are begging for mercy. Overall It was dam near the best day of my life.
We had the cameras video and still but we were both out there the whole time and it's funny but I didn't feel bad about ignoring the record devices... Great day...
I have a bloody nose right now, welts from the Jfish, my hed is gashed and it feels good? :coffeycup
I have a new...
Good times.......I surfed when I was in Hawaii and I think I had that same great feeling when I was done....Its a real workout!
Maybe you should come out West to surf......It was 90 degrees at Trestles today....
:rollside:
Been to Trestles a few times, I "dropped" into my first wave there on accident.
I loved going there. Nice waves, consistent sets for the first timer.
Went shark fishing shortly thereafter, I haven't been surfing since....
I miss surfing.
Brian
More Trestles....
http://www.kimberleigh.com/items/sanonofrewest.jpg
:rollside:
Typical Trestles left breaking wave.............
http://www.coppermanland.com/photos/trestles.jpg
Been to Trestles a few times, I "dropped" into my first wave there on accident.
I loved going there. Nice waves, consistent sets for the first timer.
Went shark fishing shortly thereafter, I haven't been surfing since....
I miss surfing.
Brian
My brother was stationed on the polar sea(an CG ice breaker) out of Seattle and used to come out to the coast with friends to surf. I would put on my mustang suit complete with converse chuck taylors and go out with them. I had a '66 shiv Long bed truck with an olds engine dragging the ground and would strip in the day light with no concern to get changed and into the water. Might have opened a door for privacy.
I remember 4'-6' on the inside. Nothing crazy... my head would hurt from the water temp. I was like a barge in heavy seas with that mustang suit..! rip Current was a bitch. 1st beach Lapush Wa. 1995
With 17lbs of flotation I would get sent to the bottom and drug across the rocks..! :rollside:
I remember yelling at the sea lions playing with me having fun but thinking about the 14' great white that had been caught a year before by the indians the year before just in the river :crossx:
Good times!
I was on a 44' MLB just about 6 months before and trashed it in the surf just off of the same beach... bigger seas
Typical Trestles left breaking wave.............
http://www.coppermanland.com/photos/trestles.jpg
I lived a San Clemente when I was in High School and Trestles was the shiit. I remember skating down the roughest road ever and crossing the tracks to uppers. Then a short walk down the beach to lowers. I've camped MANY times on that beach.
Spent many nights in the Trestle jungle back in the early '60's. Pretty cool
having the whole Trestle area to ourselves. Only got caught once.
Wouldn't trade those years for noth'in. Every once in a while toy with
idea of dragging the ole "Yater" out of the attic and givin it a try again.
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