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Thread: A new/old 454

  1. #1
    f_inscreenname
    Alright I decided to re power my boat this winter. The small block as wound up as it was just could not handle the pressure. So I went out and bought this.
    http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...name/motor.jpg
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting
    Now I am looking for ideas of what to do with it. Cam, pistons etc. I am on a budget but a rebuild is definitely planned. So what would you do with it?

  2. #2
    DelawareDave
    86 7.4L= 330 horsepower. Peanut port heads, most likely. So so pistons, so so cam. Good point is it had closed cooling, so block should not be rotted out too bad.
    May or may not be 4 bolt mains. Cast crank probably.
    Bottom line is 454 Mag motor is more desireable, but you should have a decent foundation to start spending on.

  3. #3
    f_inscreenname
    Oh please, use it as a anchor?.
    Its a 340hp motor and thats stock. I am thinking cam, intake, carb and maybe pistons. That should wind it up enough for a 19' boat. Don't want to over do it though (compression) there may be a blower in its future.
    http://i10.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/79/b1/7be2_3.JPG

  4. #4
    Ryan00TJ
    It's gonna take alot of TLC but could make a nice platform. Be prepared to Bust Out Another Thousand. Only way to know how much work will be required is to tear it down and go from there. Only a few things could be needed or you could end up replacing damn near everything. I know my build list just keeps getting longer and more expensive and I had 50% of the stuff beforehand.

  5. #5
    f_inscreenname
    I am prepared for a total rebuild. I would never go through the hell of installing a motor without doing it.
    As for breaking out another grand. I have been fooling with a Mopar for the last 5 years. I don't think anything cost less then a grand for it. Chevy's are cheep compared to them.

  6. #6
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    Tie a rope to it. It might make a decent anchor.
    Rio
    Remember this post Rio????:idea:
    that's lame! If you're gonna start sh*t then post away or stfu and don't even start on an open forum. You need attention or sumptin this morning?
    With a post such as this, screenname should just tell ya to FOAD! FOR PERSONAL REASONS!
    Rio
    U never seem to amaze me.......

  7. #7
    396_WAYS_TO_SPIT
    I am prepared for a total rebuild. I would never go through the hell of installing a motor without doing it.
    As for breaking out another grand. I have been fooling with a Mopar for the last 5 years. I don't think anything cost less then a grand for it. Chevy's are cheep compared to them.
    Should be a fun build Good luck and keep us updated

  8. #8
    HTRDLNCN
    keep in mind the older mercs were rated at the flywheel while the newer ones
    are rated at the prop. So its probably closerto 300-310 when compared to the newer ones.
    That bieng said $660 for a complete running merc 454 is a great deal.
    With just a basic freshning up it should be a blast in a 19 footer.
    I just did the same in my boat,swapping the 350 for a stock 454..

  9. #9
    SmokinLowriderSS
    Oh please, use it as a anchor?.
    Its a 340hp motor and thats stock. I am thinking cam, intake, carb and maybe pistons. That should wind it up enough for a 19' boat. Don't want to over do it though (compression) there may be a blower in its future.
    http://i10.ebayimg.com/01/i/000/79/b1/7be2_3.JPG
    Here's the build I would do, it is the one I am working,a nd am very pelased with the results.
    First, keep in mind your goals may or may not be similar to mine, mine are modest.
    Dissassemble it and rebuild it. Don't worry about the crank being cast unless you plan to run it over 6,000 RPM or blow the heck out of it. If it needs underground, then do it and have it polished. Don't sweat the block being a 2-bolt main, it's plenty strong. If you HAVE to beef it up tho, in the How To section is an article I posted from Chevy Hi-Performance Magazine last spring on making a 2-bolt to a 4-bolt using the stock caps, adding grade 8 7/16" fasteners. I think it would be a waste on most lake boat uses tho. Any good performance machine shop should be able to do it.
    Set it back in with Clevite 77 bearings. There may be better specific purpose ones out there, but for general hard lake usage, I don't think you can do much better, especially not for the modest cost. Don't try to get the bearing clearances anywhere near the tight end of the spec either, or you can easilly snag one, and wreck the whole bottom end. IMO, the middle of the factory spec range for the auto uses it was designed for, is the minimum wise spec for hard marine usage.
    Replace the 3/8" knurled rod bolts with some Wave-Loc ones from ARP. Even Chevy advises to ditch them with each rebuild. Get the best once, and forget them. A resize is mandatory.
    If you are after pistons, for general use I don't think you can beat the price of Speed Pro Powerforged line of pistons. You can spend more, does your build needs require it? For most uses I don't think so.
    Find out what your heads are (chamber size), any overbore needs, how thick of a head gasket you plan to run, what the current flat-tops come up to with respect to the top of the block at TDC, and the proper dome size can be calculated to get a certain CR. I would try to go 10:1, and run premium.
    Speed Pro Plasma Molly standard design rings, you won't be displeased. Make sure the ring gaps are from the mid-range toward the larger end of the factory spec, and you should avoid any cases of ring gap closure.
    Cam, decide whether you want hydraulic or roller. Keep your duration BELOW aprox 280* seat to seat, or your peak HP RPM will climb out of reach. I am very happy with a Hyd custom I got from DuaneHTP. .565" lift, 280* duration, he has had many years of good experience with it. The cam is custom ground for steeper than normal Hyd ramp rates and is ground advanced 4*, so just intalled straight up.
    Get a good double-roller timing chain setup, just not a good idea to scrimp here. I am running a double-roller, all billet gears, 9-adjustment (or so) notches from Comp Cams. $100 locally, 2 hard years and it is still tight.
    Intake, I think you will be best served with an Edelbrock Performer RPM type manifold. I have the Air Gap version, and am VERY happy with it. Starting, idle, throttle response, 5,000 RPM performance, all arround use.
    Top it with a Holley (I am a holley fan, sorry) 700 to 750 CFM size. Vac seccondary if you want maximum mileage, 4150 mech seccondary if you want maximum performance. Some folks on here think an 850 is not too big, I think it is, but the choice is yours.
    What are you head casting numbers?
    You will need Large Oval Port heads for most boat uses, '781 or '049 numbers. If you want much over about 450 HP at 5,000 RPM, they will need porting, or replacement, but those castings are a very capable part. They do not flow any more tho above .600" lift so more lift in stock configuration is waste.
    If you have the small oval port (peanut) heads, you are shopping for new heads.
    For most boat engines, I would stay away from the big rectangle port heads. They do not flow fuel mixture well at moderate to low RPM, they are designed to inhale ABOVE 6-grand, not below.
    Valves, Manley Pro Flow is my preference. For marine uses they advise the Severe duty intakes, Extreme duty exhausts. I have head work planned, and plan to use those, in the larger 2.19"/1.88" size.
    If you want over about 400+HP, you need headers, whether over transom or thru.
    If you go OT, get ready to buy mufflers, and/or pay tickets from the LE folks.
    If you go TT, get tissues and vaseline, the price is gonna hurt. :cry:
    That about covers it. Best of luck to ya. :boxed:

  10. #10
    f_inscreenname
    Thanks Smokin
    Thanks for the info. It will be most useful .
    I do have the peanut heads so I guess I will be looking for them in the future. I have a 750 Edelbrock. I will get a Air Gap intake and rod bolts. I have through hull exhaust and will be doing some sort of header (I’m east coast, not many sound laws here). Thought about pistons . Would like to keep the compression down enough so I could run on pump gas. Double roller timing chain. H/V oil pump. Molly rings….
    My main concern was cam selection. I was going to stay below 400hp. Well real close to 400hp. The main reason for the change beside throwing a rod in my (very hopped up) 360ci was so I would not have to hop it up to bad and still pick up 50 to 75hp from it in the process. Then I will have a good base to work off of if I ever want to make more changes.
    The motor is already torn down to the block. The block has been prepped and painted. Now I just need to find a Chevy V-8 to Volvo bell housing for a 14” flywheel (need to leave the crank out in case it needs alterations) and it will be time to put this bad boy together.

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