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Thread: Driveline guys, please read........

  1. #1
    1968Droptop
    As most of you know I'm building a blower motor (engine) for my Daytona. I've run into a bit of a snag. The driveline I have is way too long. It's the style with a color that bolts to my crank, with 2 u-joints that bolt together. The only style available now.
    I need to find about 2" of room for the blower belt to work with my back seat. If I only use one one u-joint, I should have enough room for the blower belt. How well will this work ? I've heard of peeps only running one u-joint, and heard of peeps running NO u-joint. I really don't know how well just one u-joint will work ? I'm thinking if I make sure everything is lined up really close it'll work ???
    P.S. I'm installing my Lightning rail kit, so now is the time to set it up right.

  2. #2
    DelawareDave
    It would be possible, IMO anyway, to run one U-joint. BUT- the shaft alignment between the engine and pump would have to be absolutely perfect, not almost perfect, not pretty darn close perfect, but perfect perfect. That would be very, very, very difficult to achieve.
    Disclaimer: Take my opinion with a grain of salt, since I know absolutely nothing.

  3. #3
    Murray PE 857
    Another way, but expensive, solid driveshaft and Lenco couplers. Or put in a pump release and use Lenco couplers also. I'm just dieing to make you spend some more money. LOL.

  4. #4
    BrendellaJet
    Id talk to other Daytone owners. You are not the first to install a blower motor in one so Im sure others have come across this situation before...

  5. #5
    wsuwrhr
    IMHO,
    Mechanically it will spell disaster eventually for the pump shaft, bearing, pump housing or the crankshaft.
    On a V drive boat the solid shaft setup is pretty long, allowing for some flex in the shaft. A shaft for a jet would be so short that little flex would occur.
    I don't think a single u-joint would work either, as it would only allow for single axis movement.
    Everything important in a boat is bolted to two peices of wood bonded to a peice of fiberglass, hardly a rigid chassis. Shit does move around driving over unstable water. Any movement will cause a bind, and eventually the weakest part will give and ultimately fail.

  6. #6
    steelcomp
    All correct...a single u-joint will only act as a coupler, and will need to be perfect. Solid driveline (like a Lenco) that short is going to have iussues if it's not perfect. Like Brian said, even if perfect in a static environment, take it on the water and put blower power to it, and all that goes out the window.
    My suggestion...move the engine forward and make it work. Move the seat, shorten your blower drive, do whatever it takes, but the double u-joint coupler you're describing is about the shortest driveline you're going to be able to use.

  7. #7
    CARLSON-JET
    Has the pump been moved back?.. Maybe just some mods to the bench are in order as previously noted.

  8. #8
    1968Droptop
    Yeah the pump is set back, but only an inch. My other option is to find the coupler I was hunting for earlier this month with no luck. The unit I'm looking for has the u-joint coupler and the flange that bolts right to the crank all in one piece. These units seem to be about 1.75" shorter than the two piece unit I currently have. That just might buy me enough room, MAYBE. But I haven't been able to find one. Thanks for the tips guys !

  9. #9
    wsuwrhr
    Yeah the pump is set back, but only an inch. My other option is to find the coupler I was hunting for earlier this month with no luck. The unit I'm looking for has the u-joint coupler and the flange that bolts right to the crank all in one piece. These units seem to be about 1.75" shorter than the two piece unit I currently have. That just might buy me enough room, MAYBE. But I haven't been able to find one. Thanks for the tips guys !
    You could also cut down the PTO flange. The crank flange is usually a 1/2" or less in thickness, yet the PTO is 1" to 1-1/4 thick. You could cut off enough off the crank side (back side) maybe even 5/8 or so, shorten the bolts to match and away you go.
    Any machine shop could do it for you.
    If you want to send it all the way to me, I will trim it up and send it back.
    Brian

  10. #10
    YeLLowBoaT
    what about runing a "donut" ( the old rubber donuts that stop shock from going thru out the drive train) they flex alot, not sure if you could find one that could take your HP.

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