Brian, You should make one more of those and show it off at the next NJBA race.
Pretty much what I was thinking, good figures.
Brian, You should make one more of those and show it off at the next NJBA race.
Do you think anyone would want it? I made it out of necesity.
Brian
wsuwrhr:
Do you think anyone would want it? I made it out of necesity.
BrianIt beats the shit out of the current Spicer/Dana iron crap that everyone has to run due to lack of alternatives. Its a seldom seen part so I don't know how much folks would pay, but there IS a market of sorts.
Chris
MikeF:
i.e. 400hp x 2.91(1st gear) x 4.10(final drive) = 4772hp (to the wheels in first gear)
400hp to pump = 400hp wsuwrhr:
Pretty much what I was thinking, good figures.Unfortunately that equation is incorrect for HP, but is correct for Torque. Remember, HP = Torque x RPM / 5250.
Your equation does not take the RPM factor into consideration. Also remember that when you use gears(or levers) to increase applied torque you lose movement distance. IE: if you use a lever to double your torque(2:1), you cut the movement range in half(1:2). Your gear ratio example gave you just under 12:1 torque multiplication. This would also give you a 1:12 RPM reduction. Plug those into the equation and you would see that the horsepower number doesn't change.
When you get down to it, HP isn't what you want to look at anyway. You want to compare the forces applied, so torque is what you want to look at. So just substitute "Tq" for "HP" in both equations and the comparison will become accurate.
Having spent way too many years looking at Corvette aluminum driveshafts/halfshafts, I tend to think you need more meat around the "ears" of the shaft. I believe the Vette shafts used forged ends welded to tubes, which would allow them to be smaller with the same strength. It might also be better if the transition from "ear" to "tube" were a larger radius to spread out the load.
Having said all that , I would love to have one myself. Nothing like polished billet parts.
Well alright,
All I would need is the center to center distance
of the yoke you have. So who wants one?
While I agree on the calculations, I took into account that alot of people mistake HP for TORQUE.
Thanks for the ideas nonetheless.
I can make the radius larger without a problem.
However I still feel the actual LOAD placed on the yoke installed in a boat is far less than a driveshaft in a car. I am all for strength, I just didn't feel it is necessary, the customer is always right.
Brian
[ December 04, 2002, 08:02 PM: Message edited by: wsuwrhr ]
Brian, the finished part looks awesome! Definitely shows your expertise in the area of design and machining. I do have a question for you, why not use stainless?
Thanks,
Stainless. It certainly is possible. But why would
you want to? For the look, or corrosion properties? Just curious. I would hate to drill a 2-1/2 hole in a piece of 303.
Brian
wsuwrhr:
Thanks,
Stainless. It certainly is possible. But why would
you want to? For the look, or corrosion properties? Just curious. I would hate to drill a 2-1/2 hole in a piece of 303.
Brian Basically for the corrosion properties as well as the higher strength. The fact that once it's polished, you wouldn't have to worry about polishing it again, also sounds good. Unfortunately, my boat has a 3 point mount, so I wouldn't benefit from the "Show" piece, but if I ever get off my ass and install a 4 point mount, I would be interested in a great looking drive shaft.
I'll agree with that. Thanks for the compliment.
Happy New Year.
Brian