LOL. You answered one of my questions while I was reposting- Yup you have points !!!! That was funny,lol.
Sometimes ignition systems will seem like fuel issues and vice versa. Let's get that ignition system 100% since you do not know if it is.
I took a quick visual inspection of the points this morning and they don't appear burnt,excessive wear or anything like that. This whole thing is just wierd considering it's like it has a damn rev limiter on it which if there is one,I be damned if I know where it is.
Okay everyone,I need to revise my findings a little.
At idle the motor is generating 15" of vacuum. Not 10".
Cruising speed the vacuum is between 7-10" of vacuum.
Everything else is the same as posted above.
Sorry about that,I had to review my notes and consult with my co-pilot who was taking the readings because I was busy driving.
Scott I think I know what the problem is. It's probably that skag slowing you down. LOL. Hey just to let you know I also have a tunnel ram and Most might disagree but vacume secondaries don't work so good on tunnel rams. I had a 750 vacume and got the same thing MIXED SIGNALS, sounded like pop corn. Went to 850cfm mechanical and all was fine. Just a thought
Wish I could change carbs but the $$$$ isn't there to do that.
Try placing a screw in the vacuum secondary lever area to make it manual. You may not be getting enough vacuum to open them completely. That is my guess
Try placing a screw in the vacuum secondary lever area to make it manual. You may not be getting enough vacuum to open them completely. That is my guess
Already done that buddy. I am thinking the 3.5 power valve was really messing me up considering at WOT the motor is at 3.5 to 4 inches of vacuum.
So the only time that power valve was open is at the initial stabbing of the gas and vacuum went to zero but closed at the higher RPM when the motor created 3.5 inches of vacuum or more. Gonna recheck my points,install the 10.5 power valves and try it again tonight after work.:idea:
UPDATE: Well guys I took the boat out again with the 10.5 power valves installed which is what I was told to put in it since I am at 15" of vacuum at idle and 4-7" at WOT. The carbs were still jetted with 72's in the primaries and 75's in the secondaries.
Anyways we idled out and let it warm up a bit and hit the throttle and she ran worse than before but this time it due to being way too rich.:jawdrop: So I went home,pulled the carbs and have taken the jets back to the original setting of 66's in the primaries and 67's in the secondaries. Hopefully I have got it right now with the power valve and jetting.
Even though it ran like chit I was exited it wasn't from a lean condition at least this time around.
Whats your thoughts?
Keep the 66s in the primarys and jet up the secondarys to 72-73.
To set the dwell just check it with the meter shut off the engine and readjust the points. Its a trial and error thing.
Its how I set the points on my fishing boat.
Be sure to check/readjust your timing after adjusting the points.
To set the dwell just check it with the meter shut off the engine and readjust the points. Its a trial and error thing.
Its how I set the points on my fishing boat.
Be sure to check/readjust your timing after adjusting the points.
I ordered the "Pertronics" conversion kit and it will be in tomorrow. Screw the points and chit. They are obsolete and a pain.
Keep the 66s in the primarys and jet up the secondarys to 72-73.
I haven't converted the secondaries to a metering block yet and am still running the jet plate and I only have the original 67 that came in the carb and the 75's that came out of my 750 Holleys.
Should I stick the 75 plate back in the secondaries instead of the 67 jet plate?
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