As long as it didn't dig into the seats or crack the head you could technically still run them with some new seats/valve job
What are some causes for a valve to brake. The motor has maybe 50 hours on it. The heads are new Performer RPM all the other cylinders are fine. The exhaust vavle broke at the bottom of the stem wear it starts to flare out and the rest of the stem is still cliped in to the spring. It took the block, piston and head out. I was wondering if the head could be repaired pic attached.
Thanks
As long as it didn't dig into the seats or crack the head you could technically still run them with some new seats/valve job
That sucks. I just had somthing simillar hapen to me
What are some causes for a valve to brake. The motor has maybe 50 hours on it.
Not saying this caused your problem but...When I lost an Exhaust Valve several years ago (broke the same area as yours) the engine builder said it may be due to water reversion...cool water spraying on the HOT Exhaust valve. It caused some serious damage back then.
He suggested and installed (Feria Inconel) Valves, been in the engine for years and years. He said..."the Feria's just don't snap".
Hammer has 2 good points there. Water as one possible cause.
Good quality valves as the other (good valves are much less likely to break).
There are a bunch of possible causes that can contribute, just a few.. inadequate valve to pistion clearance, inadequate spring to close the valve at high rpm or overrev, overrev itself, heat (as in too lean[intakes especially suceptible to this]), too little valve in too high power of engine (quality), some other valve train problem holding the valve open (or not opening it enough) or foreign object getting through the intake, broken spring, flat cam, etc etc etc etc. Many problems will have a bad effect on engine running prior to breaking valve off, many will not.
And then sometimes shit just happens when everything's the best it could have been.
I have repaired worse damage to aluminum heads, and have pics to prove it! I don't know how to post them though. The repaired head is on an unlimited class roadrace car that runs at Firebird raceway(Phoenix.AZ and elsewhere). I believe that it holds a lap record or two...
I don't use Edelbrock heads myself, just my choice. TIMINATOR
79 sorry to hear about your bad luck.
I thought Edelbrock heads had good valves.
I will try to clean up the head before buying a new one.
The boat was has a rev limiter 5200 and the head gasket looked good.
So shit happens
Good thing about aluminum heads is that you can repair them
One of the reasons I think it is smarter to buy bare heads, valves separately, springs separately (with the cam). You know exactly what you are getting, have exactly what you want, and can reasonably expect it will all work together properly (esp. the springs with the cam/lifters).
Even if it does cost you a few more dollars, I think that knowledge is well worth it.
Expensive way to learn.