Reply With Quoteif memory serves, 12-15# is set from the factory with a good spring. sounds like yours might be ok, but after 10 years of sitting i would replace it anyhow.
At what pressure should this thing be opening, i hooked the water up today turned the hose on low and checked for leaks, water was coming out of the dump like it should, i then pressed my finger onto the dump to build some pressure while watching my pressure gauge. At about 10PSI i heard the basset valve click and it started to let water through to the headers. I don't exactly know how much pressure is going to be running through the block at idle from the pump because i never had a pressure guage before, but i know my regulator will only go down to 25 PSI. Is my spring weak, this basset valve is brand new but about 10 years old...
if memory serves, 12-15# is set from the factory with a good spring. sounds like yours might be ok, but after 10 years of sitting i would replace it anyhow.
I would replace it and keep a spare. I had one break on me.
You dont want water in the headers at idle. That is why it closes. It should be opening at about 1500 to 2000 RPM. You should then have a fine mist.
The tee is fine.
Start with your dump line gate valve wide open and adjust it down in small increments to bring the header water on at your desired rpm's that you want the water injected at. At idle the water should shut off to the headers.
yah T is good no water below 2000 or you will have reversion another thing u can do is run hose up front from T that then has a gate valve so u cam manually close it off whenever u want to
You want that thing opening at around 2000 rpm. Dont go any lower than that.
The watts regulators...while they say the lowest setting is 25lbs, you can see less. On my boat Im only seeing 10lbs right now at 3-4k rpm...Perhaps in a proper setting those pumps can show min of 25 lbs, but in a jet boat that is not the case.
The tee is fine.
Start with your dump line gate valve wide open and adjust it down in small increments to bring the header water on at your desired rpm's that you want the water injected at. At idle the water should shut off to the headers.
I disagee with this. Sorry.
If you start regulating the dump line, you can build too much back pressure and pop a gasket in the motor. Not saying it will happen , but can happen.
I disagree with this. Sorry.
If you start regulating the dump line, you can build too much back pressure and pop a gasket in the motor. Not saying it will happen , but can happen.
That's how I had my boat plumbed as suggested by Basset.
Never had any problems with it. Your only regulating/adding a small restriction to the dump to time the header water, not shutting it off.
:idea: Do you think Basset is trying to mislead the boating public by suggesting the installation of the gate valve in the dump line?
Possibly a secret coup :jawdrop: with the gasket manufacturers to get you to buy more gaskets.
Ok this is a spam:idea:
Ever check out one of these?
http://www.banderlog.com/products/wa...dualNWires.jpg
http://www.banderlog.com/products/wa...Injection.html
Just a thought,
Don
Ok this is a spam:idea:
Ever check out one of these?
http://www.banderlog.com/products/wa...dualNWires.jpg
http://www.banderlog.com/products/wa...Injection.html
Just a thought,
Don
i have, and ran one in the rogers for a while now. great product.
in defense of danhercules post, i think he meant that you need to be cautious about relying on the valve to control the water flow entirely. yes you can add more flow by opening the valve, but now your adding more cooling to the engine. not so good if you are allready at your optimum temp. and vise a versa. the basset T valve works off of water preasure and not rpm. if you set the water valve to its proper rpm to open the T valve, you may be sacreficing or adding water to the engine. in my case with the rogers the basset T valve doesnt open unless i restrict the dump line flow, which creates more block preasure and heat because of the lack of cooling water. the factory spring in the basset T valve may be or may not be right for your application. either trying differant springs (weaker or stronger) or going with the banderlog electronic valve are basically your two options. just dont rely on the water valve for both engine and exhaust cooling.
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