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Thread: Holley 650 exploded view needed

  1. #11
    old flat
    Infotraker, when you are getting the bases and the bodies put on in the right direction, make sure you have the right base gaskets; in the carb kit you will be given an assortment of those gaskets, don't match up what came off of it. Someone could have put the wrong one on at the last teardown, it always pays to match the gasket to the base and body to assure all the passages are open. Just an idea.
    STEVE

  2. #12
    infotraker
    Check my post on Holley 650 questions, pictures added. I'm leaving for vacation friday so need to get carbs right.

  3. #13
    GofastRacer
    Turn the body around, leave the metering blocks the way they are and make sure you use the right body gasket, that should fix it!..!.

  4. #14
    infotraker
    I rotated the body to match the front carb. Started hard, when started then appeared to be to much gas. passenger side of motor belched gas and smoke. Gas poured out of the weep holes in the water injection pipes to headers. Turned body around again and everything ok, starts and runs on trailer. I'm going to get the Holley performance book and see if I can figure whats going on. Does not make sense to me. Maybe I got the body gasket turned around covering so holes.

  5. #15
    old flat
    GoFastRacer: just looking at the pics those look like 2 corner idle, I can't see the idle screws on the other side metering blocks, I can see the ported vac on the primary metering blocks, if this is trhe case the blocks will need to be put on the right end of the body. Also I am running a deal like this on the TR-2, I needed to put blockoffs in the power valves and up the jets, then set up the throttle plate rod linkage to be one-to-one that way both sides of the engine had roughly the same mixture in each of the T-ram runners. Just trying to help.
    STEVE

  6. #16
    GofastRacer
    GoFastRacer: just looking at the pics those look like 2 corner idle, I can't see the idle screws on the other side metering blocks, I can see the ported vac on the primary metering blocks, if this is trhe case the blocks will need to be put on the right end of the body. Also I am running a deal like this on the TR-2, I needed to put blockoffs in the power valves and up the jets, then set up the throttle plate rod linkage to be one-to-one that way both sides of the engine had roughly the same mixture in each of the T-ram runners. Just trying to help.
    STEVE
    That is correct, that's why I said to just turn the body around and leave the metering blocks the way they are, right now he's using the secondary end of the body as the primary and that don't work!..

  7. #17
    Fiat48
    So Gofast has seen the light and is a carb guy at last!

  8. #18
    old flat
    That is correct, that's why I said to just turn the body around and leave the metering blocks the way they are, right now he's using the secondary end of the body as the primary and that don't work!..
    Right on that, have you seen those changes I was talking about? It wasn't bad on my old boat cause it had the older Edelbrock TR2X4 with that big plenum under the carbs, on Infotraker's deal he has the T-ram like we are running, without that mixing area under the carbs, and each carb bore almost matches up with a runner on the manifold. BTW I might mention to loctite the base screws, or run those intake gaskets with screens, I don't care for the latter, a base plate screw could vibrate loose and make it's way to the piston dome, and that result is never good.
    STEVE

  9. #19
    GofastRacer
    So Gofast has seen the light and is a carb guy at last!
    Now THAT is some funny shit right there!...

  10. #20
    GofastRacer
    Right on that, have you seen those changes I was talking about? It wasn't bad on my old boat cause it had the older Edelbrock TR2X4 with that big plenum under the carbs, on Infotraker's deal he has the T-ram like we are running, without that mixing area under the carbs, and each carb bore almost matches up with a runner on the manifold. BTW I might mention to loctite the base screws, or run those intake gaskets with screens, I don't care for the latter, a base plate screw could vibrate loose and make it's way to the piston dome, and that result is never good.
    STEVE
    Yeah, it's kinda like making them similar to 660's, 1to1 and no powervalves!..

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