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Thread: Eliminator Scorpion running flat and wet

  1. #1
    502 JET
    I have an 86 Eliminator Scorpion. The boat drags its a$$ and runs flat and wet. After searching I found that this is an issue with with these hulls, and that's why the were only made for a few years. I also seen it mentioned they were better suited with an outboard and don't work very well as a jet. Well I'm stuck with the boat for now. Its stable and a nice ride but wont set the world on fire.
    Is there anything that I can do to get more lift to get the hull on top of the water?
    I would like to know what is so different about the bottom on this boat compared to the better performing tunnel hulls as I understand this is what is holding the boat back.
    Anyone have bottom photos of the better performing/more desirable tunnel hulls or know where I could find some? I'd like to compare them to my hull.
    My boat has a shoe and ride plate. The shoe is tapered. In the pic the shoe is 1/8" above the keel. The ride plate has some up angle to it. I have not put an angle finder on it yet so I don't know the degrees of angle. The pump has a loader, which I sharpened all the leading edges. The loaders leading edge hangs about an inch below the keel. The pump is fresh with a stock AA American Turbine stainless impeller, clearance @ 25 thousandths. I also spent a lot of time blending the suction housing to the intake housing removing all sharp edges, filling low spots and speed coating the inside of the pump. The bottom of the boat is flat and smooth, it is a perfect transition to the intake. Also running a diverter and droop.
    At 6000 rpm it feels like the boat noses over and the rpms go up. Could this be cavitation at this point? I have gpsed @ 85 mph with two people, full interior, 30 gals. of gas and the tool bag on board. I don't know the hull weight. Its not a light layup.
    Sorry about the large photo its the only one I have of the boat at speed.
    http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...96DSC00837.JPG

  2. #2
    MADDOG355
    At 6000 rpm it feels like the boat noses over and the rpms go up. Could this be cavitation at this point?
    I would think so.
    What loader do you have?
    You did not say if you had a droop or place diverter, I would recomend both.
    From the pic I see 2 cables so I assume it has a place diverter, Most seem to run best with around a 3-6 foot tail (that is just a rough guess you will have to find what works best for you). In the pic it looks like the diverter is down to low in my opinion.

  3. #3
    502 JET
    I forgot to mention it has a diverter and a droop. I have tried different settings on the diverter, didn't make much of a difference other than making the boat loose when rasing the tail.
    My loader is similar in design to this one. With the exception being my ramps are longer covering up two of the mounting bolts.http://www.hotboatpics.com/pics/data...5596c51b_1.jpg

  4. #4
    Squirtin Thunder
    Sometimes a little down wedge will help as well as a Jack Mc Clure custom loader.

  5. #5
    MADDOG355
    They make a few different ones, I would be afraid to make a sugustion on loaders (I don't have any experince with tunnels).
    I am thinking th ride plate could be part of the problem if it is not set right.
    I am shure some of the tunnel gurus will post and give you some more ideas.

  6. #6
    Rondane
    I would like to know what is so different about the bottom on this boat compared to the better performing tunnel hulls as I understand this is what is holding the boat back.
    That boat was made wider with less sponson in the front unlike a daytona which does not enable it to take a good set. It does exactly what your describing. A good wave will come right over that nose from what i understand if your not careful. Not sure about the bottom. Is that a flat keel or round? If it's a flat one you need to put that shoe level with keel to start. my .02
    rondane

  7. #7
    MAXIMUS
    check your pm's...

  8. #8
    sdpm
    I worked with a guy years ago on this same hull with the same problem. The only way that we could make it run was by dropping the shoe below the keel and it had to be a flat shoe (no taper or backcut). The center pod of the boat has a bad design and without changing it this was the only way it would work. It would tend to spray water back up over the bow and would not turn at all. I did not like doing this but it was what had to be done. Be very careful. With the shoe this deep, the boat can be very dangerous if shut down to quick or looses power. I don't advise it!

  9. #9
    JR131
    give HB from R&D marine a call we ran 2 of these boats and held records
    with them or go to the web site r-dmarine.com and check out the picts
    we had a boat that was almost identical to that. when set up right that boat is about a half of a second quicker than a daytona
    (714)993-2664 ask for Harold
    jr
    http://www.r-dmarine.com/files/Download/jrmod.jpg

  10. #10
    JR131

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