Reply With QuoteI think you can find them on the Basset or Rewarder web sites...
Steve
ok i've got some water injected basset twistys for a bbc vdrive....I know I need to get a gate valve, but don't know exactly what i'm looking for here. does any one have a pic....then I need to know how this is operates once the boat is in the water....i know it has to do with the water comming out of the headers at about 1800 rpms...any help or pics would be great
I think you can find them on the Basset or Rewarder web sites...
Steve
Check out the Banderlog valve. A little pricey but very reliable.
A gate valve is a plain old faucet spigot except that it will have female pipe threads on both ends. They are available at the hardware store in whatever pipe thread size you require (generally 3/8" or 1/2" NPT). You should also run a Bassett T-valve, after the gate valve, with a 1/8" pipe plug epoxied into the inlet and a 1/8" hole drilled in the center to cut down the water flow. The reason is that the rubber impeller style water pump (especially a MagnaFlow)used on a v-drive will commonly over come the spring in the t-valve even at idle. The double restriction of a valve and a small orifice will usually prevent this.
I have also made an electronic, RPM controlled valve (similar to the Banderlog unit) out of off the shelf parts that worked very well, for about $200. If you are interested in the design, let me know and I can either make you one, or draw up the design for you.
ok....i figured it was a double female water spicket valve.....I'm glad you cleared that up. Now, does that screw into the water outlet on the manifold then run a hose to the t off the one side of the water outlet. Basically.....water outlet.....gatevalve.....hose....T valve.....hose....water injection lines on headers. Something in that manner? I'm interested in what your saying about the mods to this valve, but I don't fully understand. I got a new T valve with my headers. I'm also intered in this valve you make....does that mean you charge 200? My water pump has glenwood marine stamped on it, but from what I can tell it looks a lot like the magna flow pumps I've seen for sale in pictures. Once the valve is installed how do you set the valve to operate. My guess is you have a hose hooked up to the boat with one guy working the hose....you start the motor.....then you have him turn the water on a little bit....try to hold the rpms at 1500 to 1800 and have him twist the valve a little bit until water comes out of the headers.....then shut the main water off and then the boat quickly.
here is another way i have seen it done. you add another water pick up to your cav plate. then reduce the line down to the size you need. the way it works is when u are on plane it is forcing water thru the headers then when u back off of it and are no longer up on plane it will not feed the headers. i am sure that some like this and some don't. let's hear the pro and con's to this method.
here is another way i have seen it done. you add another water pick up to your cav plate. then reduce the line down to the size you need. the way it works is when u are on plane it is forcing water thru the headers then when u back off of it and are no longer up on plane it will not feed the headers. i am sure that some like this and some don't. let's hear the pro and con's to this method.
do not do it this way. when you lift the throttle it will pump water right into your heads. Hot exhaust valves just love that. NOT!
I never put any house hold plumbing on any of my boats. I see alot of it but C'Mon man. Restictor pills are a good idea. I used needle valves but hey, there is a bunch of ways to skin the cat. You can tap the -8 unions that go in the headers. Then a brass Enderly jet fits right in there.
Those Banderlog set up are nice.
I myself hate water injected headers. What does it do? Still friggen hotter then a mofo, still loud as hell. Why, why why?? Run then dry with a good muffler would be my choice.
BTW, you ever boat on Lake James? I pretty much grew up on that lake.
If I remember correctly, the last electric valve I made cost me about $200 to make. If you want me to make you one I have to charge you a little to gather up the parts and assemble, but I'd make it worth your while. Anyways, if you choose to keep it all mechanical, you need to keep an adequately sized dump line from the motor in place. Then from one of your plugged off dumps, you would put the gate valve (I like to mount them right on the motor for easy access), then the Bassett valve, and then hoses out to the header lines.
Dave's idea on the Enderle jet is a good one, I just have never done it that way. If you have access to those jets, go for it. I do know that a 1/8" npt pipe plug will fit into the inlet on the Bassett valve, but it won't fit tight so you JB weld it in place. Once it dries, drill a 1/8" hole in the center of it. Let me know if you want more info on the electric valve.
I never put any house hold plumbing on any of my boats. I see alot of it but C'Mon man.
Gotta do what you gotta do.... If you get a brass one you could always polish it out and make a killer looking billet knob for it.....
am I drilling into the gate valve or the basset t? and you mean like horizontally throught the center?
I'd like to see a pic of your electric valve....
Posting Permissions