I've recently started working on the tilt mid section of my engine since many of the components were very rusty. It took several weeks of trying to get the top pin of the hydraulic ram out...used heat, used a hardened steel punch...and finally came out after drilling out most of the material. Now I'm trying to get the lower pivot point out so I can clean up the hydraulic ram , coat the metal with this new special paint and then coat it with white paint. But the bottom pivot point seems to be quite stuck too.
the question is: Is the bottom pivot point for hydraulic ram a bar that goes straight through the side brackets with two lock nuts; like the bar that comes just before that? Isn't the middle section( with the oil resevoir and oil pump) designed to be able to be removed with the engine mounted on the two side brackets?
Visually it looks like the bar goes straight through, but the parts catalog makes it appear that there is another bar that is used and that the two side brackets would have to be removed first.
I had this all apart when they rebuilt my engine in 1994, but that was over 7 years ago and I can't remember if there were two bars that went through the two side brackets, or if only one bar and what I think is another bar is simply a stud coming from the middle section on each side.
I have room next to the ram's bottom pivot point (next to each nylon bushing) to be able to cut the bar, but am afraid to do that until I'm sure that it is in fact a bar that goes straight through.
So far I've tried simply pounding one end with a 48oz hammer, and it doesn't move. I have access to a torch to heat it up. Would you suggest heating the steel bar, or the surrounding aluminum? I ask because heating the bar seems like that would expand the steel which in turn would make it a tighter fit, but heating the aluminum around the hole would expand the metal so that cinches around the steel bar.
any help would be great.
Chris
if this is an 86 (not a fastrac) you can remove the 6 bolts holding the trim unit in without pulling the stern brackets, since the top pin is now out. it is also a pin in the bottom. heat, lube, patience. if you destroy it, i can hook you up with a replacement for $300. Good luck.
so the bottom pin does come out like I described?
$300.00 please tell me that is for a complete midsection and not the bottom pin.
:-)
complete t&t unit. bottom pin in the t&t unit does come out. the pin only is actually $400. (just kidding) good luck.
he is right there should be 6 bolts and i dont think there is a pin but i may be wrong but i just had 1 apart liek a week ago so im pretty sure that there is no bottom pin
any more questions please email me at bigfish1229@aol.com
I Repeat. There is a bottom pin. It is called a "tilt cylinder retaining pin. If the corrosion is bad, this pin will need to be removed to replace the nylon bushings. apply grease liberally to the pin and bushings when you go back together with it. Careful not to kink the hydraulic line at the bottom of the trim cylinder. You may want to reseal the unit while it is apart, if you noticed any previous leaks.
well corrosion must be pretty bad since it doesn't move with me hammer a 48oz sledge against it. There seems to be quite a bit of play at the pivot point of the ram, but the bushings seem to be fine as far as I can tell with the ram still installed.
No leaks (as of yet). And the bottom line was replaced in 1994 when I had the engine rebuilt.
what do you suggest as far as heating? The bar or the surrounding aluminum?
thanks in advance.
Chris
any suggestion on replacing the tilt/stearing tube ( the pivot point for the engine itself)...It has seen better days, and I can only get grease in on one side only. The other just doesn't accept any grease no matter how hard I squeeze the grease gun. I'm thinking there is corrosion that is blocking the grease from oozing out to the middle. any thoughts on that?
From personal experience, use a good penetrating oil and heat all of it with a propane torch. I have seen some things that are just too far gone. The grease fittings you are referring to only grease the bushings and outer tube, not the cable as some may think. I would go ahead and replace those too and hone out the tube. Corrosion is a bitch. I really feel for you.
Thanks ratso,
But fortunately I have hydraulic steering so the corrosion on the tilt tube doesn't affect me...but then again unable to ram grease into one side worries me that one day I won't be able to lift the engine anymore.
With the ram disconnected, the engine lifts like butter. Lifting the engine with the ram still connected, but the manual release valve opened, was a bear.
I'm going to have to get an engine hoist to do the tilt tube aren't I? I don't see how I can avoid that Is the mounting point for the hoist the three holes in the flywheel (I know there are used to remove the flywheel) or is there a more proper place to bolt the hoist's chain to ?
BTW this is the first forum where somebody has actually gone into to detail to help me with this. Thanks
To pull the flywheel or lift the motor is done by using the three holes in the top of the flywheel. Sometimes I forget that people don't have all the special tools in the field as I do at my shop. Anyway, round up three bolts (fine thread) and bolt a chain between them to lift your motor. Remove the nut on the steering tube and pull the stern brackets. Don't lose your washers between the brackets, and replace the bushings.
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