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Thread: Bravo 1 upper gear question

  1. #1
    SED253
    I pulled my upper apart for inspection and noticed that the brass thats on the gear is starting to wear a little..is this brass replaceable or does the gear need to be replaced..

  2. #2
    BDMar
    It is not relacable by itself. You will have to replace the gear assembly

  3. #3
    SED253
    Will this brass that is wore cause a slip in the drive..im having a slip problem that i cant seem to figure out...One side of the brass is perfect and has the little step on it...the other side of the same gear..the brass is wore completely off...smooth....is this my problem

  4. #4
    BDMar
    The brass rings are eccentric. They only aid in the shifting process. The shift cam rides against the brass area while shifting and not running "true" helps it shift. They will not cause slipping. 99% of the time slipping is the prop hub. If the cone clutch slips it will end up welding itself to fwd gear.
    Is it slipping when you shift or under power? Worn brass rings will cause it to slip into gear instead of a more positive shift.

  5. #5
    SED253
    This Slpi is when i am under power...my shift is nice and firm...and doesnt slpi in or pop out of gear.....This slip is intermitant...sometimes it occurs when trying to get on plane...but mostly when i as at cruising speed and try to accelerate to WOT something starts to slip..The engine rpms go up but the boat does not accelerate...It sounds just like the prop is blowing out but i dont think the prop can blow out with the drive all the way down...I can see it blowing out when trimmed up or trimming up but not with the drive all the way down...is this correct or am i way off..

  6. #6
    BadKachina
    Bd is right, I would look at your hub, then your coupler. Any chunks of rubber in your bilge???? Pull your prop and inspect your hub, and/or put your drive in gear, and grab your prop and see if you can turn it without turning the motor. (motor not running of course )
    I had a customer put a fish finder/depth finder directly in front of one of his drives, hanging below the drive. After he came in twice, and we could find nothing wrong with his boat, I finally asked if he had always had the fish finder there. It turned out he had just added it and the next time out he had problems. The fish finder was aerating the water in front of the prop, making it slip under load. Check to see if you have any thing that would disrupt the water or any damage in front of the drive or on the bottom your boat.

  7. #7
    SED253
    I put the drive in reverse and could not spin the prop forward without turning the engine over...man that took alot of brut strenght to do had someone in the enginge compartment wactching the shaft while i was turning the prop but the prop shaft and engine all turned over together...not much but was able to move it all......No rubber chunks in the bilge either..Nothing is new been added to the back of the boat..Only thing i did was to pull the top off the engine...installed a blower and changed the prop...Thats it....the drive is off now and when i look in the gimble housing...all the rubber is still intack on the engine coupler

  8. #8
    BadKachina
    I put the drive in reverse and could not spin the prop forward without turning the engine over...man that took alot of brut strenght to do had someone in the enginge compartment wactching the shaft while i was turning the prop but the prop shaft and engine all turned over together...not much but was able to move it all......No rubber chunks in the bilge either..Nothing is new been added to the back of the boat..Only thing i did was to pull the top off the engine...installed a blower and changed the prop...Thats it....the drive is off now and when i look in the gimble housing...all the rubber is still intack on the engine coupler
    Ok, now we're getting somewhere. You added more power, and now your slipping under load? 3 or 4 blade? You added more power in the midrange, maybe you need more blades or more pitch. I know if that I have to keep my rpm's under 2k or so when I'm getting on plane or I just blow the prop out completely. I have to make an effort to keep the rpms down until it rolls over than I can get into it. It's probably something your not used to yet.

  9. #9
    BadKachina
    One more thing, you said you changed props. Is the prop brand new? Has it been worked on? I've had props that were worked on that never acted like they were when they were new. I had a 23 Mirage fixed years ago that once it was fixed I was never able to get on plane with it again. The guy who did the work ruined it. Since the only variables you changed are the extra power and a different prop, one or the other is probably causing your complaint.

  10. #10
    SED253
    I went from a bravo 1 24-4 blade to a Bravo 1 28-4 blade...Prop is box stock and never been worked..When it slips it sounds just it does when a prop blows out...But its doing it with the drive all the way down..Is it still possible to blow the prop out when the drive is all the way down

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