It depends on what you are polishing, I polished my lower units and the first time out they already look dull.I spent about 20hrs on them.Any advice how to seal them?
Any Reccomendations would be greatly appreciated before I drop money to have it done professionally (another term for expensive)
[ March 17, 2003, 12:58 PM: Message edited by: faster ]
It depends on what you are polishing, I polished my lower units and the first time out they already look dull.I spent about 20hrs on them.Any advice how to seal them?
Clear anodization, or clear powder coat. Or the trust old WD40 .
Do you polish it like you do aluminum, just with courser stuff?
LABOR LABOR LABOR. IT DEPENDES ON WHAT YOU ARE POLISHING. IF ITS BEEN POLISHED BEFORE YOU CAN JUST USE BRITE BOY OR OTHER SIMILER PRODUCTS. THEY WORK GOOD FOR AREAS WHERE YOU HAVE CORRISION OR RUST. NEVER DULL WORKS GOOD TO. IF IT IS A RUFF PC. YOU NEED TO SAND THEN BUFF WITH WITH A POLISHING WHEEL. I USE A PRODUCT MADE BUY AUTOSMART AND IT IS A METAL POLISH. IT WORKS WELL. THE TRICK I FIND IS APPLY WITH A GOOD TERRY CLOTH BY POLISHING AND REMOVE WITH A MICROFIBER TOWEL. THERE NOT CHEAP BUT THEY MAKE YOUR JOB AND WORK QUALITY NICE. EVERY BOATER SHOULD HAVE A BATCH OF THESE ON HAND. WALMART SELLS THEM IN THERE AUTOMOTIVE WAX AREA AND THEY ARE A DESCENT QUALITY. THEY ALSO WORK GOOD FOR REMOVING WAX, WASHING WINDOWS AND DRYING. WELL GOOD LUCK. MIKE
FOR THE ALUMINUM YOUR SOME WHAT OUT OF LUCK. YOU CAN ANODIZE OR POWDER COAT CLEAR. THESE WILL HELP FROM THE PROCESS OF CROSSION BUT THERE ARE TWO FACTORS THAT ARE PROBLEMS. ONE IS THE HEAT GENERATED FROM THE UNITS. TWO IS THE PROCESS OF GOOD OLD ELECTROLIS THAT TAKES PLACE AS YOUR BOAT IS IN THE WATER AND THRU THIS THE MICRO CURRENTS GROUND TO THE METAL ON YOUR BOAT AND IT ATTACTS THE SOFTEST METAL FIRST. SO TREATING THE METAL HELPS AND MAKE SHURE YOUR ZINCS ARE GOOD AND ONLY WASH THE UNIT WITH A LIGHT SOAP SUCH AS BOAT SOAP ETC. STAY AWAY FROM SIMPLE GREEN AND OTHER HEAVY DETERGENTS AS TO THEY WILL CAUSE STAINING.