Anybody had any luck with a particular product and/or procedure?
There are many different ways to do it, I'm hoping to find out what does and doesn't work without the trial and error.
I haven't seen ant paint that really sticks to the floor But I heard in door out door carpet works pretty good. All you have to do is vacume. Just mt 2 cents ( my dad has the carpet and he's a mechanic he likes it cause he doesn't have to put anything down on the ground while he's working) just a suggestion! wink
Why not tile it?
They sell Epoxy paint at Home Depot that works well. I am going to get some as soon as I finish moving in to the new house!
Thanks MRS FLYIN VEE,
I'm probably too messy for that.We had carpet in our old shop, it had its advantages and disadvantages.
Boozer,
our new shop is tiled with Motormat (same as Kiwi Tile), it's ok but fluids get underneath and they stain easily.
I did consider some type of ceramic tile but don't know how that would work out. Another factor to consider is how slippery a surface becomes when wet.
You must wait about 6 months with new concrete ,or so I was told for it to cure fully.
I have had several friends use the epoxys after etching their floors with acid ...All of them worked ok to a point but eventually the point where a cars hot tire rests would weaken and pull up.
Where I work had it done professionally a few years ago in the stockroom, and I watched them do it. They actually ground grooves in the floor, like a concrete freeway has, and mixed up a spray in a heated machine ...they sprayed this hot mix and it looks like trunk splatter paint in older cars ...It has not come up anywhere yet and forklifts drive on them 24 hrs a day ....I am sure this process can be costly ...but it does work!
We do epoxy floors that last anywhere. Email me if interested at bud.racing@verizon.net
Prep is the most critical element to a epoxy floor. Usually the floor is preped by sandblasting the surface. It's critical to open up the concrete for the epoxy to bite and to absolutly remove all oil and contaminates. If you do not prep correctly, the epoxy will peel off in giant flakes leaving a surface that looks like a ulcer. Not pretty. Also be sure to broadcast some sand onto the finish. The is stuff get really slippery when it's wet. You can also get different grades of epoxy flooring. Anything from a real thin coat that is easily damaged to a 1/4" thick multilayered system that "you can drop an engine block on without damage". The systems that I'm familiar with are by Tenemic and Performance Polymers.
[ July 24, 2003, 10:54 AM: Message edited by: dorC ]
The best place to get epoxy coatings is from Carboline. They just came out with all kinds of new epoxy flooring systems. My company does epxoy floors all the time, so I would know where to get the best shit. PM if you want, and I will answer all your questions.
N1
dorC:
Prep is the most critical element to a epoxy floor. Usually the floor is preped by sandblasting the surface. It's critical to open up the concrete for the epoxy to bite and to absolutly remove all oil and contaminates. If you do not prep correctly, the epoxy will peel off in giant flakes leaving a surface that looks like a ulcer. Not pretty. Also be sure to broadcast some sand onto the finish. The is stuff get really slippery when it's wet. You can also get different grades of epoxy flooring. Anything from a real thin coat that is easily damaged to a 1/4" thick multilayered system that "you can drop an engine block on without damage". The systems that I'm familiar with are by Tenemic and Performance Polymers. Oh yeah, forgot to say dorC is right on the money with his answer.
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