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Thread: Cold Air Intake?

  1. #1
    Wet Dream
    Ok, I remember reading it in here somewhere that iron heads retained heat better than aluminum heads which "heat makes HP". Ok, so take this concept and put into the world of aftermarket auto products. Why are "Cold Air Intake Tubes" the rage if for instance my truck (2000 F-150 5.4) performs worse when the temp is less than 50*F? And everything checks out ok on the electronics? Enlighten me.

  2. #2
    Wet Dream
    Is this more to do with air density perhaps?

  3. #3
    Fiat48
    Because we are talking two entirely different things. Cool air is better for induction. More cold air can be packed in a cylinder than hot air. And since an engine is really just a glorified air compressor, more air and fuel packed in the cylinder makes more heat. And that's where we started.
    Yes, air density.

  4. #4
    Fiat48
    Originally posted by Wet Dream
    Ok, I remember reading it in here somewhere that iron heads retained heat better than aluminum heads which "heat makes HP". Ok, so take this concept and put into the world of aftermarket auto products. Why are "Cold Air Intake Tubes" the rage if for instance my truck (2000 F-150 5.4) performs worse when the temp is less than 50*F? And everything checks out ok on the electronics? Enlighten me.
    Looks like I missed the question. The only thing I could suspect on the truck is that something is not correct in the fuel ratio dept. The cool temps would suggest the computer needs to send in more fuel and it is not doing so. Possibly one of the sensors that read intake air temperature or water temperature.

  5. #5
    HOSS
    Originally posted by Wet Dream
    Ok, I remember reading it in here somewhere that iron heads retained heat better than aluminum heads which "heat makes HP". Ok, so take this concept and put into the world of aftermarket auto products. Why are "Cold Air Intake Tubes" the rage if for instance my truck (2000 F-150 5.4) performs worse when the temp is less than 50*F? And everything checks out ok on the electronics? Enlighten me.
    Ok, heat does not make horsepower. An engine has an optimal running temp whereby wear is less critical (and friction from cylinders) so there is more power being generated from the same amount of work. Engineers? cast heads hol more heat than aluminum because of its ability to dissipate the heat. With that being understood, you could run a higher compression ratio with aluminum heads as opposed to cast heads because of a lower chamber temp enabling detonation to not occur.
    As far as the vehicle performing worse in cold air(50) then there is an air density issue involved. If you pray really hard GOD may cooperate.

  6. #6
    Hotcrusader76
    iron heads retained heat better than aluminum heads which "heat makes HP".
    This statement is somewhat true to a broad degree. But it isn’t a concept I would personally parallel with the effects of air density and or air velocity from aftermarket “cold air induction kits”.
    . Why are "Cold Air Intake Tubes" the rage
    Aftermarket Cold Air intakes in design are good for certain applications and not so good for others. The ultimate goal for the concept was to take outside ambient air (external from the engine bay) instead of the hot inside air from the engine and direct it directly to the TB (throttle body) with minimal bends and no sound baffles. The result was great but many aftermarket designers that capitalized the concept for all performance trend vehicles whether they absolutely gained from it or not, showed poor results yet still continued to market the idea.
    K&N. BBK, and Granatelli for instance have done extensive R&D work on certain designs that actually took cold air from the fenders that enhanced the vehicles performance throughout the power band. Others carbon copied the ideas from these three companies with fancy chrome pipes that often came with clone K&N filters, IE MAC, AEM, and a slew of import spin-offs. If you’re running a cold air kit from anybody other than the three good companies I mentioned then you might want to look closer at what you’re getting. Are you really getting the cold air as advertised? Or is this some cool looking dryer hose with a red filter on the end that terminates just short of the fender?
    I have started manufacturing my own “true” cold air kits for the 99-03 GM trucks and will start the Ford Triton motors in the spring. I will be able to offer a completely functional cold air kit with a true, not a clone, K&N filter that is substantially cheaper than what you’ll find on the market today. Granted mine will be non-composite designs but it will offer a substantial savings in comparison to what’s on the market today. How can a company justify $230.00 for non-composite design that incorporates rubber and metal tubing that is built overseas? I don’t know
    BBK’s Cold Air Designs- great company and great product. K&N would be second best.
    http://www.bbkperformance.com/produc...bbkCai1720.jpg
    for instance my truck (2000 F-150 5.4) performs worse when the temp is less than 50*F? And everything checks out ok on the electronics? Enlighten me.
    Your truck theoretically should be running stronger on the bottom-end because the IAT (Intake Air temp sensor) will be registering a colder temp which the computer gathers along with a slew of other feedback sensors, MAP (air pressure)/MAF (air velocity)/TPS (throttle position) and then advances the timing according to the read charts that were programmed in from Ford. This is why the cold air induction is the latest rage.
    Note- something you can do to trick the computer into believing it’s colder outside is splicing in a resistor that changes the output signal to the CPU. Just make sure you’re running good gas.
    Now you’re complaining of poor performance when it’s cold outside but you have tested for ECC faults and nothing has come up. My first check would be the IAT thermistor that should be located in the intake tube prior to the TB. It registers ambient air temps. Check to make sure it’s still connected when you swapped out the old intake tube for the new one. Something you might also consider checking is the MAF/MAS sensor located up-stream on the intake tube near the fender (giant size throttle body plate appearing component). Make sure the connections are good and look for a possible air-leak. This would cause your engine to run rough in cold conditions because the computer isn’t registering the correct air-velocity in relation to the TPS and IAT outputs and therefore the CPU isn’t locating the proper read charts programmed into the computer. This should throw a fault.
    What other modifications have been performed to this truck? Do you have a clean fuel filter? What cold air kit did you purchase?
    Also note that service bulletins 15436 and 15259 are TSBs that deal with ambient air temperature issues and a lack of power on 5.4L 2000 Ford trucks. Contact the dealer on these fixes.
    Anyone else want to expand on this? HOSS?
    ~Ty

  7. #7
    HOSS
    Yes, the resistor in-line concept is awsome. But how would I know what resistor to put in?

  8. #8
    OMEGA_BUBBLE_JET
    FYI....it is not street legal to alter the inlet air temp sensor and can lead to emission failure if your area does the emmisions testing. By altering the signal from the inlet air temp sensor it alters the computer and can effect air/fuel mixture and gas mileage etc. SLP sells them for GM cars but it specifically says for off road use only NOT 50 STATE STREET LEGAL.
    Omega

  9. #9
    Hotcrusader76
    Originally posted by HOSS
    Yes, the resistor in-line concept is awsome. But how would I know what resistor to put in?
    Whoooaaa...easy there HOSS Now you're getting into questions for specifics that breed risk.
    Out of seariousness though, I believe some home brewing jobs have used 100k types but as far as part numbers and what not, I am sure you could map out the circuit and with a little deciphering figure out what will bring the value down on the output.
    Otherwise I agree with OBJ...it's emissions illegal because it effects the fuel curve as well on the batch or sequential fireing of the injectors. I just wanted to add that little tid bit on modifications that can be done. That's all.
    Kids don't try this at home.

  10. #10
    BowTie Rick
    The latest thing we have been seeing (hearing) is "brand X flows more air than a K&N". Actually they do, a whopping 2% more on average. Problem is, they filter about 5 - 10 % less than a K&N. Besides dyno testing, we also test for filtration and unless we are as good if not better than OE or else we do not release a product. They all rate a 98 - 99% efficiency ratio on an SAE J726 filtration test. A good paper filter rates 98.5 - 99.5%. Our "best" competitor rates a 93 - 95% and we have seen some as low as the high 80s. Considering the OE minimum is 96%, that is not good at all. The exceptions would be the new Donaldson filters found on the Powerstroke 6.0L and H2. These have a 99.9% efficiency and guess what, we don't make a replacement but all our competitors do. Remember when all is said and done, its still a FILTER and must perform as such.

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