Reply With QuoteLO, Thanks for the reply, My boat is just for Lake ridin', nothing Fancy. The nicks aren'nt THAT bad, but for all I know it could be terrible. I about shit when I looked in that grate, but I feel a bit better now.
Thanks
Fog
Originally posted by Foggerjet
...went out and slid under my trailer to look up through the intake, and I can see a few pretty good nicks in the leading edge of the impeller. Obviosly this will affect performance, but how much?
Depends how you are intending to use your boat. Most lake boats have some nicks on their impellers...that in itself is not big deal.
LO
LO, Thanks for the reply, My boat is just for Lake ridin', nothing Fancy. The nicks aren'nt THAT bad, but for all I know it could be terrible. I about shit when I looked in that grate, but I feel a bit better now.
Thanks
Fog
We dont run the boat at lakes much, mostly at the river (blythe). I assume that the river will put more wear on the jet because the water is more shalow and more sand runs thru the system. Is my theory on this correct?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by LakesOnly
[B]For a lake boat, that's the biggest crock of shit I've ever heard.
There are few moving parts in jet-drives and, once correctly rebuilt, can last anywhere from one hour to twenty years. Depends on whether you suck anything up into them, HP levels and other abuse, or just normal wear and tear, etc.
Guys, lakesOnly is very correct and if your read between the lines ,it should read something like this, if you think your going to order a $250.00 pump kit , jerk your pump out of your boat and rebuild it to correct tolerances with little or no experience, I suggest you ask the advice of someone "in the buisness" Duane HTP etc. before attempting it. I have already screwed this pooch and it wont happen again....my .02
I checked the leading edge of my A impeller this fall ( 4 years old ). Decided that it was pretty dull, so I tore it out. Glad I did, because the trailing edge was about to fly apart imo.
QUOTE]
I assume that the river will put more wear on the jet because the water is more shalow and more sand runs thru the system. Is my theory on this correct? [/QUOTE]
The professional shops (hopefully) will ask where you boat (sandy or not), and what kind of boating you do,wether its river racing or pulling skiers,etc. your horsepower,and max rpms.
Your clearances and impeller cut can then be determined after that,and yes blythe is sandy and that should be taken into consideration. There are good chances you will have to have some parts machined if you want to do it the right way and have the correct clearances.I reccomend sending the impeller out for a clean up if its damaged.If your keeping the boat and you do use it, take the time to do it right, or send it to a jet-drive shop and have it done right the first time.
Good luck.
cs19: I couldnt agree with you more about getting it done right.
ONAROLL: i have been chatting with Duane HTP via PM and he's been a big help. According to him i can do the kit my self and it isnt that difficult. This will be my first rebuild.
While i have the pump apart what other things should i check for/have done. How will i know if i need to send the impeller out? should it just be done or is there certian characteristics i'm looking for?
I'm sure you all can help me more when i have it apart and pics up. I plan on taking alot of pics of the hole process from unwraping the new motor to firing it up for the first time.
One question ... How about special tools . Will he need something that isnt readily available at auto zone?:idea:
Heres some info on the pump...
http://www.berkeleyjet.com/products/default.htm
Originally posted by Jake W
I say shop around first compare price and components.
Jake
Suprised you would say that jake??? Do you? I've only seen you mention two. Seems to me your just a "sub" cheeleader.
How is that DPS inducer btw?? Why didnt you go the billet route? It's nicer and cheaper. Besides,you could have gotten an extra "hot ham sanwhich" with the $$ you saved!
CHET
P.S. Shaun do yourself a favor, get the pump completely apart THEN see what you need. Your gonna kick your self if you get a kit without an impeller and it turns out you really need one. Costs just as much to have an impeller "cleaned up" as it is for a new one, so why bother??
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