Reply With QuoteNG so what do you think is the better way to go Mallory or MSD? Which is less expensive and will still perform a rev limit and adjustable curve?
Well unfortunetly GNARLY the only way to use any thing else in a spitfire is a complete remake of the ignition.As I posted before the mallory works as a component or alone with a coil , but it wont wire into the spitfire system.You'll have to throw-out everything.
The interupter though should work wired into the supply line to the dist.,as the newer cobras shift differently and all it does is cut current for a split second.Look on your shift bracket on the motor, there should be just one microswitch with two wires on it, that is your interupt .If you unplug it and check with an ohm meter it should show normally closed, when activated it cuts current.I believe wiring the red lead to the dist through this would activate the interupt correct,this lead is a low current lead for signal purposes.Check your shift control to see if its as I described and let me know . NG
NG so what do you think is the better way to go Mallory or MSD? Which is less expensive and will still perform a rev limit and adjustable curve?
Not Guilty, how would you bleed the hydraulic trim system on a 94 King Cobra? Thanks!
Gnarly-I personally like the mallory because of the price and the fact you can get by running the dist alone and add a box to alter ignition later .
CHEST-CHET-I've never had any problems bleeding down the trim on any cobras,they generally run the air out on thier own.Whats your problem ? Could be something else.. NG
NG, this is actually my buddies boat. I wasn't there, but I'll try to describe the best I can. It's a '94 Hawaiian 24. Last season he pulled it out of Mojave and the drive wouldn't come up, electrical problems that ended up just being a loose connection. Without holding people up at the ramp, he just drained some fluid from hydraulic arms to get it up for the tow home. From what I'm understanding, now the hydraulic fluid gate (?) will not open up to let fluid in rendering it stuck. I may not be describing the problem correctly, I'm just hoping you may have a clue. Thanks in advance!
Chestah-There is a manual relief valve on the trim motor, its a slot-screw type plug.Block the lower unit where its at and relieve the pressure on the pump by loosening this screw a couple turns then raise the lower unit all the way up and block it there then remove the fill plug -DO NOT EVER REMOVE THE FILL PLUG UNLESS THE UNIT IS ALL THE WAY UP !-Once unit is blocked all the way up tighten the manual valve back up then add fluid to level.Have another person run the pump in the up position while you keep adding fluid to keep level up (stop running trm if you need to, just dont let the level go down to far)do this until you here the trim motor load down stop and fill to level 'put the plug in and remove the blocking under the drive.Run it thru the up -down cycle about 5 times and recheck level- remember to have unit all the way up before removing level plug.
HOPE THIS HELPS . NG
PS-be carefull when you first start to have someone run the up conrol if the system has not been empty , it may bleed out and load up quick ,dont want to hurt pump!
[This message has been edited by not guilty (edited April 07, 2002).]
Not Guilty & Nitro557, thanks for the tips! We ran the boat on Sunday with minimal problems only this time. The trim pump would make a "gurgling" or "bubbling" sound which leads us to believe there may be air in the lines. Either that or there is not enough fluid. I wouldn't know, I didn't do the work. On the lake yesterday, after each run using high trim and then coming to a stop, the drive would not come all the way down unless we trimmed all the up to the stop first and then back all the way down.
CC1 I GOT THE SAME PROBLEM WITH MY 460 KING COBRA. IT IS HARD TO SHIFT OUT OF FORWARD OR REVERSE. I HAVE THE TWO LEVER SHIFTER. IT SHIFTS FINE OUT OF THE WATER,BUT CAN BE A REAL BITCH IN THE WATER. I AM THINKING THAT THIS SWITCH IS OUT OF ADJUSTMENT.WHAT DO YOU GUYS THINK? THANKS
Thought I would change my boring name to something more appropriate (no more JohnC).
Anyway, CC1:
I just put mine in the water for the first time since I had the Gaffrig shifter put in. In the water DOES make a difference, because when I backed it off the trailer I had NO FORWARD!!! I tested it on the trailer at home and it was working. Needless to say I was a little hot after just spending several hundred getting the new shifer in. After messing around with it at the marina for a few I was able to get forward but lost reverse. Obviously the OMC certified mechanic F@#*'ed up the adjustments! Anyway, its going back to him on Thursday, I will let you know what happens. Keep in mind it was working in both forward and reverse before I took it in. I was just trying to upgrade to a smoother shifter.
JC
OLD LAVEY, I GOT A BIGGER BOAT THIS YEAR, ITS A 245 LIMITED CHRIS CRAFT W/ 460 COBRA. I AM GOING THROUGH A LEARNING CURVE HERE GOING FROM A 18.6 BAJA TO THIS 24'6" BOAT.I HAVE ONLY HAD IT OUT TWICE. THE FIRST TIME I WENT DOWN THE LAKE AND CAME TO A STOP AND WENT TO NEUTRAL, IT WAS LIKE RUNNING ON FOUR CYLINDERS,I TRYED GIVING IT GAS BUT NOTHING.IT STAYED THE SAME RPM. I BARELY TOUCHED THE SHIFTER AND BOOM SHE PURED LIKE A KITTEN. THATS WHY I THINK THE SWITCH IS OUT OF ADJUSTMENT. I ALSO NOTICED THAT IN THE WATER MY SHIFT CABLE HAS MORE PLAY. MAYBE THATS WHERE I NEED TO START, KEEPING IN MIND WHERE THE SWITCH NEEDS TO MAKE.
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