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Thread: Tunnel Ram Tuning Tips

  1. #11
    EASYSTROKE
    Originally posted by Hotcrusader76
    Easystroke...
    LAST BUT NOT LEAST.....LISTEN UP HERE!!!!!!!!!!! I know alot of you so call carburetor killers have removed those factory chokes and all....well make sure you plug the hole that the choke recieved it's heat signal from...otherwise you'll be chasing a vacuum issue and you'll have no idea where it came from...an even better sign is the tell tale sign of a freight train whistle while accelerating.....ask aka"Hallet19"....it really sounds cool but does nothing but crap out your idle causing you to blame the carb builder or set your idle mixture higher....but it does help your CFM ask my oval track racers:wink: ....
    Goodnight and sleep tite....
    ~Ty
    Hotcrusader76,
    The carbs were used when I purchased the setup and already had the chokes removed. The choke parts were sent with the carbs. They were manual chokes so did they receive heat or is that only on the auto chokes models. I do realize that I could do a lot of work to the 600's but I am looking to replace them as soon as funds are avalible so I don't want to tie up a bunch of money in them.
    Thanks for everyones imput.

  2. #12
    XClutchboy725
    Originally posted by Hotcrusader76
    Jeff if I remember correctly your set-up involves Holley tunnel ram part numbers on those carburetors right? I believe they are and running lower jets like that actually compliments the boosters Holley installed under that part number. If you were to separate those carbs and run them as single applications on any motor they would run really really lean.
    What is your LSA on that cam? 110-108 I imagine. Anything less than 110 on a tunnel ram needs a four corner idle circuit to feed the beast with it's nasty overlap.
    Ok...now I'm going to bed....
    You know, I couldn't remember.......
    ...so I looked it up online.
    My cam is an old Erson JB100 (JB standing for Jet Boat )
    It appears to be 112 lobe centers!
    Ty, I'm sittin here thinking I should get my boat to you and have you tune those carbs to the motor. Can you PM or email me what you think (roughly) you'd charge?
    Thanks,
    Jeff

  3. #13
    Hotcrusader76
    Originally posted by EASYSTROKE
    Hotcrusader76,
    The carbs were used when I purchased the setup and already had the chokes removed. The choke parts were sent with the carbs. They were manual chokes so did they receive heat or is that only on the auto chokes models. I do realize that I could do a lot of work to the 600's but I am looking to replace them as soon as funds are avalible so I don't want to tie up a bunch of money in them.
    Thanks for everyones imput.
    Awesome then. Yeah most carbs that had the electric choke removed ended up having ghost problems. It's amazing what a little hole can do when bleeded off to ambient air.
    Jeff...
    I'll send you a PM later on today.
    ~Ty

  4. #14
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  5. #15
    Senior Member
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    Originally posted by Hotcrusader76
    Awesome then. Yeah most carbs that had the electric choke removed ended up having ghost problems. It's amazing what a little hole can do when bleeded off to ambient air.
    Jeff...
    I'll send you a PM later on today.
    ~Ty
    What else might cause the proverbial freight train whistling? I've got a pair of 660 center squirters (no chokes) that I just put on a tunnelram. They work awesome, but whistle like nobody's business. I'm thinking that they had manual chokes at some point in time, although they were gone when I bought em. It's actually kinda cool sounding, but makes me wonder what might be causing it.
    I'm using the uncut metal screened flame arrestors and just figured it was the air sucking past the screening.
    No performance problems to speak of, just the whistle.
    I was also thinking of modifying the crank so the secondaries wouldn't open so soon. Any problems or potential pitfalls with this mod?
    Thanks
    http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/da...19finished.jpg

  6. #16
    Danhercules
    Originally posted by Squirtcha?
    What else might cause the proverbial freight train whistling? I've got a pair of 660 center squirters (no chokes) that I just put on a tunnelram. They work awesome, but whistle like nobody's business. I'm thinking that they had manual chokes at some point in time, although they were gone when I bought em. It's actually kinda cool sounding, but makes me wonder what might be causing it.
    I'm using the uncut metal screened flame arrestors and just figured it was the air sucking past the screening.
    No performance problems to speak of, just the whistle.
    I was also thinking of modifying the crank so the secondaries wouldn't open so soon. Any problems or potential pitfalls with this mod?
    Thanks
    http://www.jetheaven.us/photopost/da...19finished.jpg
    Hey Dan,
    I love that whissle, by bros boat did that. Mine dont. I have 2 750;s as well, and a very simmalar set up that you have. I ran my boat, it runs close to your w/o the NOS, but not quite there.

  7. #17
    BigBoyToys
    Dang, after reading Ty's explanation on the tuninig thing, now I understand why I just throw in a motor and go. Tuning, timing, jetting, etc.....What's that?

  8. #18
    ChetCapoli
    now that's a detailed carb explaination and well put.
    Mr. Squirtcha you should look for a factory flaw in the tunnel ram where the runners come together...little pinhole that you wont see unless you seperate the tunnel ram top from the bottom. I've seen a weiand with that same problem and thats what it was. Will you be my friend now?
    I'm not liking this help center too much...need to find me some drama and a hot ham sanwhich......
    CHET

  9. #19
    BK
    Originally posted by EASYSTROKE
    Hotcrusader76,
    The carbs were used when I purchased the setup and already had the chokes removed. The choke parts were sent with the carbs. They were manual chokes so did they receive heat or is that only on the auto chokes models. I do realize that I could do a lot of work to the 600's but I am looking to replace them as soon as funds are avalible so I don't want to tie up a bunch of money in them.
    Thanks for everyones imput.
    Originally posted by Hotcrusader76
    Awesome then. Yeah most carbs that had the electric choke removed ended up having ghost problems. It's amazing what a little hole can do when bleeded off to ambient air.
    Jeff...
    I'll send you a PM later on today.
    ~Ty
    I have the 600's with manual chokes and had to plug the holes, so even if they're not electric choke id still check them to make sure. As for tuning, I used the second lightest spring, and a ballance tube for my secondaries. I also used a vacume guage to make sure I was using the proper power valves, and after you get it out have someone sit in back and make sure your secondaries are oppening all the way and in at the same time.

  10. #20
    BK
    Oh and as for the timing. Mine idles alot better with more initial so I set it at 16 deg. I saw no differance in performance with the timing between 32 and 36 deg total so I set it at 32. You'll just have to mess with it to see what works best for you once you get it out there. Good luck.

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