I am a dunce..... With little info to give at this time, here goes...
I just put my 454 motor back in my boat. I had replaced the flex plate and the starter. I had bought the boat at an auction and had never started it because of the ring gear.
Now It will start but as soon as I turn the switch from start to on she quits. I have no power to either side of the coil when the switch is in the on position. Switch? Coil? I feel f#@king stupid but I am tired and had too many beers
Ideas welcome (shots too)
[ September 11, 2002, 09:31 PM: Message edited by: WETDAWG ]
you should have power to the coil in the on position. on my 502 the power "on" wires are purple. it seems to me that if the coil gets power in the statr position that the ground is fine. i would susspect that something in the start switch or the switch wires are messed up. try this. run a jumper wire frome the battery pos to the pos side of your coil. if it stays running when you turn the key to the on position you know for sure the prob. is between the switch and coil. good luck
When I am sober I am gonna do that.
I tried jumpering everything else but forgot that little trick
Your the man.
PS my boat hates me this year
Evidently you have power to the coil while the motor is cranking (12 volt assist start which is a wire on the starter)but have lost the normal run connection from the ignition switch. Turn the key on...should be power to the hot side of the coil..if not..trace it back and find out you didn't hook up a wire or something. Also check power to ballast resistor if there is one.
Wetdawg, lots more info about boat/engine/ignition system would be helpful.
Couple of thoughts. If it actually fires up(not just cranks) when cranking, and then dies when you return key to run position, you have either a bad ign switch, a bad connection going to coil, missing wire to coil, or open ballast resistor. It runs in the "start" position because of the "ballast bypass" feature which is a wire running from the starter solenoid directly to coil(or coil side of ballast resistor). Releasing key deactivates this circuit.
Ignition switch - should have 12volts at "I" terminal with key on. Check wire color at this terminal. If switch is OK, check for power at engine end of this wire. If engine has a ballast resistor, the "ignition" wire should be connected to it, and should read battery voltage with key on. Assuming a points distributor, the other side of ballast resistor should connect to coil "+". Ballast bypass can be connected to coil"+" or to end of ballast resistor that leads to coil.
You should be able to figure this out pretty quick with a test light or power probe.
Here's a helpful wiring diagram.
Old squirt, 502Pro and Fiat48
You guys are great! I was thinking on the same lines but too hazed to get there.
Thanks Old squirt for the diagram
Gotta work at 6am tomorrow
Thanks guys and thanks for not taking shots at my stupid questions
[ September 11, 2002, 10:13 PM: Message edited by: WETDAWG ]
Good to hear its fixed. Not bad, only 45 minutes, a couple of posts and surely a few more beers!
[ September 11, 2002, 10:29 PM: Message edited by: OLDSQUIRT ]
I had the same problem a while back. It`s time for a new switch. I jacked with it for about a week before I founded out what the problem was,It can be a headache.
JUST DOLLARS NO SENSE
thats why we all hang out on this board, to help eachother out. you are more than welcome
WETDAWG
Thanks guys and thanks for not taking shots at my stupid questions[/QB]"Remember children, there are no stupid questions, just stupid people."
Mr. Mackey, Southpark Co.
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