Reply With QuoteI'll let that one lie.
Originally posted by Snowboat:
Thanks Racing Ray. I'm glad you decided to keep posting and ignore some of the stupid stuff the comes up on the forums. I tried that trick of drilling your butterflies and fiddled with it long enough to get pissed and weld the holes back up.
Need to be smarter than the carb. in the first place.
I'll let that one lie.
Drilling the plates does work but as in any solution it doesnt work for everyone. It may only work on engines with a serious cam not just a big cam. If your engine isnt a full race engine it may not solve your problem. The engine I did it on was a ford 302 putting out over 500 hp at 11 1/2 to 1 running on racing fuel.
I've reset both pri and sec throttle plates to show approx .04 of transfer slot. Bolted carb back on engine, lit it, and presto, nice idle. Need to run in water for a while, but I think this has done the trick.
As a general comment, I see so many instances where there are engine problems and the first thing folks want to do is to replace this with that, change a cam, change a carb, change a distributor. If there is one thing I have learned over the years, and have again relearned, it is that you have to take care of the basics. Make sure everything is correctly set up and adjusted per spec or recommendations. This can take some time. After you get the basics functioning correctly, then you can think about upgrading.
If you can't get the basics correct, do you think that adding a new variable into a somewhat complicated puzzle will help ?
The best carb man I know of, and I think a lot of others would testify to, is Dave Lange of Feul Curve West. He is located in Upland CA, 909 920 3779. He would be able to help you out in anyway you need regarding your carb.
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