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Thread: 400sbc reverse flow, anyone?

  1. #1
    sonny glide
    I have a 600+ hp 406 sbc outta a drag car, drop'd in to my Sanger, whats the best way to route the water lines?
    I have a Shogun stand alone elect. water pump, can't run a cam driven pump, I run a Coyles gear drive, no way to convert

  2. #2
    Budweiser
    We had a "conversation" about this a few weeks ago and came to the conclusion that unless you're running a sealed cooling system with a heat exchanger, it would be very difficult to eliminate air pockets in a reverse cooled boat engine.
    Here is a link to the short conversation:Reverse cooling, Any thoughts? (http://www.***boat.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169583)
    Good luck,
    -Seth-

  3. #3
    sonny glide
    400 is a slightly different animal then any of the other blocks, siames cylinders 4-6 & 3-5 have no water jackets just steam holes.
    I had someone suggest filling from the top at the thermostat< removed!
    this will fill both heads 1st, then fill the block from the rear, then exit out the
    front of the black where the water pump would be....
    there isnt any fancy plumbing like I've scene in the closed loop systems.
    again anyone run a 400 based sbc
    hers my present system, will it work:idea:

  4. #4
    River Rat 005
    To me a reverse flow in a boat with an open system would be like trying to fill a bucket with a hole in the bottom. It may work if your pump can pump water faster than the water runs out. But if you stop the boat, the block will drain back into the lake.

  5. #5
    sonny glide
    then U agree that my present system is OK?

  6. #6
    River Rat 005
    If the in water is going in the cross over and the exit water is coming out the manifold, then you're good to go.
    Tim

  7. #7
    sonny glide
    OOOOKAY!!
    I'll keep an eye on the temps, cross my fingers/ wear my rabbits foot/and seek the blessing of a Buddist monk.
    1 Q: when I get to spd....30+ mph will the mill basiclly B force fed w/water off the pick up on the Cav.plate pick-up?( trun off the elect pump?) and what about a Thermostat w/a small hole to relieve air/steam/back pressure
    Thats 2 I know

  8. #8
    sonny glide
    BTW I use to stay in Lima....Lill Chicago...I even had the pleasure to stay at the gray bar hotel where Dillinger once kicked back, guest of the local County Mounty's
    Hey I aint no alter boy< man, am I glad,......... no poken around on me, I'm a Baptist

  9. #9
    River Rat 005
    With a set up like this, your temp will be around 110 120 or so. I got a cheap elecric pump on my hydro that I drag race. Figured I'd use the pump to keep it cool driving back to the ramp. I found if I ran it down the track with it off that it would blow out the gasket from the pressure. I'm talking 125 MPH. If I run the pump down the track, the gasket holds. As far as the thermostat, if you're running the headers dry, you might experiment with it. I'm thinking of trying, to see if I can keep a more consistant temp. Rex Marine has a system that works with water going to the exhaust.
    Tim

  10. #10
    Budweiser
    The thermostat system that Rex sells can be run with or without water injected exhaust. I have no experience with this system, but it makes complete sense to me that the engine should be run at a higher temp than 120. I'm looking into it for my self as well.
    Here is the plumbing diagram
    http://www.***boat.com/forums/attach...5&d=1195796104
    And a link to the catalog page:Therostat Kits at Rex Marine (http://shopping.rexmar.com/Merchant2...ode=thermokits)
    Is there a good reason NOT to run the engine closer to 200? Anyone?
    _

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