Running a Jet out of water?

[lakesmodified]

Originally posted by jordanpaulk:
I just picked my boat up Friday after having the pump reworked. I was told if I must run the boat on the trailer and I have no way to get the pump in water and the trailer/hose method was the last resort, that I should hook the garden hose to the tee and then run another hose, preferably off the fire hydrant in to the back of the pump. Then and only then am I allowed to run the boat on the trailer. I am taking this advice to heart considering the money that just left my bank account and ended up in the "spent on boat" file. Just my .02 (which just happens to be the right numbers, just on the wrong side of the decimal point and without enough zero's.)
Jordy
Well, if you read the instructions on the Berkeley Catalog page, it specifically states NOT to run the pump out of water if it was just re-worked/rebuilt. The pump must be broken-in (2-3 hours) while submerged, and it states the RPM's to run it at to correctly break it in.... No one has said to break-in your pump dry. You might want to read that page, and see the correct way to break-in that pump, before you ruin that re-work! MY 2 CENTS!
[This message has been edited by lakesmodified (edited June 24, 2002).]

[lakesmodified]

By the way, according to the Berkeley manual, here are the break-in conditions... Of course, I'm sure whomever rebuilt your pump knows more than the original manufacturer. Maybe he was around and actually designed the pump himself!
2500 RPM for first 30 minutes
3000 RPM for the next 30 minutes
3500 RPM for the next 30 minutes
4000 RPM for the last 30 minutes
But hey, what the hell do Berkeley engineers know? Just put your boat in the water, and hit redline!!! I'm sure your pump man will stand behind his work.

[jordanpaulk]

Originally posted by lakesmodified:
Of course, I'm sure whomever rebuilt your pump knows more than the original manufacturer. Maybe he was around and actually designed the pump himself!
But hey, what the hell do Berkeley engineers know? Just put your boat in the water, and hit redline!!! I'm sure your pump man will stand behind his work.
What the f*&^ is that all about? First, I wasn't disagreeing with anything you said, I was just stating what I was told, that it could be run on the trailer but with lots of water running through it. Didn't mean for you to take it so personally and I wasn't trying to prove you wrong. I was actually agreeing with you and Froggy along the same lines. Chill out. Secondly, you don't know me, you have no idea who my pump guy is, or even how I drive my boat. Just so happens I dont hit the no wake zone and stand on it, but thanks for your concern. Perhaps you shouldn't take the boards so seriously.
Jordan

[CANGELOUS]

GUESS ALL OF YOU EXPERIENCED JET BOATERS ARE GOING TO JUST HATE THIS.. AFTER THREE YEARS OF BEING OUT OF THE WATER, I WAS GIVEN A JET BOAT, GOT IT RUNNING, STARTED IT ON TRAILER, WATER HOSE ATTACHED TO MOTOR NOT JET... REVVED MOTOR UPTO OVER 3000RPMS, LET MOTOR IDLE FOR AT LEAST 15 MINS, HAVE DONE THIS SEVERAL TIMES....AFTER ALL OF THIS, I CHANGED THE OIL....NOT LYING, BOAT RUNS, BOAT MOVES VERY WELL, HAD IT OUT TONIGHT, NEED TO ADJUST THE THROTTLE LINKAGE THOUGH, ALSO SAME GAS AS WHEN PARKED, JUST PUT SOME OCTANE BOOST INTO HER.

[froggystyle]

Just to clarify...
We are not saying it is going to grenade on you, or even not work. You probably did irreparable damage to your wear ring though, and significantly diminished the efficiency and longevity of your jet. With a stock motor/pump setup you may never even know. With mine, I would be pissed at the person that threw the anchor overboard while we were running, because that is what it would feel like.
As is always the case it seems, I agree 100% with Old Rigger. You CAN run on a hose, and without the benefit of an "H" bar that is the only acceptable means of running the boat on the trailer. That is what I do with this, semi-race setup in my boat. I am running enough clearance to ensure my boat starts and runs before a weekend, and set timing and float levels and the like while on the hose.
My only point was, that while it will work, it is a much better idea to disconnect while doing any extensive running... i.e. breaking in a cam.
This is not a flame-type topic guys, relax. In all actuality I could care less what you do with your pumps. I was only giving the information I have been told by professionals, and what I do in response to it.
Squirts up.

[miller19j]

Wow I did not intend to start any type of battle. I was just trying to understand why I have been told to run water through the jet when running on the trailer. I am glad that everyone has different opinions because that is how we get to the bottom of things all the points so far are valid ones. But I do not think that there is one solution to this issue it all depends on who and what you believe.
There are two schools of thought in this issue. And although I think that it is very unlikely to damage my jet when running it out of water unless debris has settled between the wear wring and the impeller. I will disconnect my driveline anyay just to be safe. If I had a three point mount I would use a “T” and consider that the best that I can do. It is better safe than sorry.
Thank you all for your input.
Brad “Miller19j”

[lakesmodified]

Jordan, sorry about the post. Going back and re-reading my post, I guess I did come across rather harsh. I'm just so tired of people stating that you will ruin your wear ring, when Berkeley themselves has always stated not to run it dry before the proper break-in procedures. Like I said in my post, if you have the 4 point mount, go ahead and disconnect the drive shaft, hell I would if I had it. I just have one question for those "jet-gurus" If the clearances are set-up so tight, that you cannot fire the engine up without water to the pump, then what happens when your motoring along on the Colorado and get sand injested? Seems to me that the diameter of a sand granual is greater than the tight clearances you guys are running. Would seem that you could only run your jet in a swiming pool... Just food for thought guys... I know that everyone that has ever rebuilt a jet boat engine, has had to clean the block of sand/sediment build-up. How do you think that sand got there? Through the pump, or course... And isn't that worst than running the pump on air?
[This message has been edited by lakesmodified (edited June 25, 2002).]

[jordanpaulk]

Originally posted by froggystyle:
Just to clarify...
My only point was, that while it will work, it is a much better idea to disconnect while doing any extensive running... i.e. breaking in a cam.
This is not a flame-type topic guys, relax. In all actuality I could care less what you do with your pumps. I was only giving the information I have been told by professionals, and what I do in response to it.
Squirts up.
Wes,
I couldn't agree more. There was a question as to whether or not a pump could be run safely out of water. When it was originally posted, my boat was in the shop getting the pump run through, and when I went to pick it up, I asked all the questions as I will have a new motor to break in too. As this was still an active topic I just posted what I was told by the guy who did my pump. I have about 0.010th's clearance between the impeller and wear ring, which as LM points out is very tight, especially when it comes to sand etc. I have been lucky and would like to think I am very alert when running my boat anywhere that could even be remotely shallow. I dont risk it. When in doubt, I shut it off and paddle, float or just swim it in.
LM, don't sweat it man, like every other topic here in tech, I figure the more input from different schools of thought, the better informed we all are.
Jordy
[This message has been edited by jordanpaulk (edited June 25, 2002).]

[froggystyle]

Originally posted by lakesmodified:
I just have one question for those "jet-gurus" If the clearances are set-up so tight, that you cannot fire the engine up without water to the pump, then what happens when your motoring along on the Colorado and get sand injested? Seems to me that the diameter of a sand granual is greater than the tight clearances you guys are running.
You are right, but these clearances are for a racing-only application. No shallow water starts, limited use, no recreation use at all. I am running .020 in mine, but the gentleman who set up my pump actually runs his race pump so tight that under load it barely goes to zero tolerance and rubs. In fact, he installed a keyway in his wear ring to keep it from spinning when it hits. This is extreme, but the setup claimed the world record for Unblown gas jet a couple years back. Tight tolerances make power. Mine is never beached, and only run in clear water. If I hit sand... well, I will need a rebuild sooner. But, until that happens, I am making the most of my power.

[jordanpaulk]

Originally posted by froggystyle:
You are right, but these clearances are for a racing-only application. No shallow water starts, limited use, no recreation use at all. Tight tolerances make power. Mine is never beached, and only run in clear water. If I hit sand... well, I will need a rebuild sooner. But, until that happens, I am making the most of my power.
Wes,
My thoughts exactly. I just have a nice clear water lake/river boat with a little get up and go to it and as was covered in another thread, nobody wants to ski behind me anyway... something about trust and diverters not going together.
Jordy